1979 carb question
There was help... You can buy a new carb from Racing Beat (1st reply), but you need to get the intake manifold too. This will work, but you'll be out of luck (most likely) if you have to pass emissions.
Sterling (replied to your thread) happens to be that guy in New York that rebuilds carbs. Another option is you can get a carb rebuild kit from your local autoparts store (~$25-$45) and rebuild it yourself.
So it comes down to if you have to pass emissions or not and how much you have to spend. I'm pretty sure you can't get new ones from Mazda anymore. even if you could, you wouldn't like the price.
Edit: This is an example of what you could get from RB. Pretty expensive and don't expect to pass emissions.
http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda1.htm
Sterling (replied to your thread) happens to be that guy in New York that rebuilds carbs. Another option is you can get a carb rebuild kit from your local autoparts store (~$25-$45) and rebuild it yourself.
So it comes down to if you have to pass emissions or not and how much you have to spend. I'm pretty sure you can't get new ones from Mazda anymore. even if you could, you wouldn't like the price.

Edit: This is an example of what you could get from RB. Pretty expensive and don't expect to pass emissions.
http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda1.htm
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Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
It's a game, Red79. I'm not allowed to push my product in here because I don't make enough to spend $1000 a month to allow me to do so.
So rebuilding yours is the answer, then. Sterling does nice work. You can do it yourself (cheapest), but you have to make sure you keep track of all the parts.
Do you have emissions where you are? If not, you can simplify the carb quite a bit and really clean up the engine bay.
Do you have emissions where you are? If not, you can simplify the carb quite a bit and really clean up the engine bay.
i am going to register it QQ so i will have no emissions inspection (yeah). as for sterling , i dont doubt he does nice work . we have been pm-ing and i cant wait 4 weeks to get on the road .. i will have it done by a local company i guess.
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,162
Likes: 1
From: London, Ontario, Canada

You could also try going to the wreckers and pulling one off another 1st Gen. Either it will run well, it will run but poorly, or it will need a rebuild as well. If I were you I would just rebuild the one you have and while your at it you can give it a really good cleaning/scrubbing and strip off the excess junk. Also what exactly is wrong with your carb that makes you say it's bad?
i just got the car , has not been started in 2 years , after getting it started it will start with the chock pulled out and stay running till it goes in. once the chock is in it will start and just barely stay running, as soon as i try and touch the gas peddle it shuts off. ....... and i wish i gould find any first gens in my local wreckers.
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,162
Likes: 1
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Well that could be as simple as adjusting the idle speed or idle mixture. But if it's been sitting for two years it's probably pretty nasty so a good cleaning is probably in order.
If it has sat for two years the carb is probably pretty gunked up. Does the fuel smell like varnish?
I can rebuild it. Still have a factory mazda kit for a 79/80. Everything I build here has to pass IM240. (Tucson)
I can rebuild it. Still have a factory mazda kit for a 79/80. Everything I build here has to pass IM240. (Tucson)
Prefer none on the car. Carb cleaners can cause detonation or loosening carbon in the motor leading to carbon lock. If you want to see if you can get away without rebuild you could try running some redline fuel injection cleaner with the fuel. Will not work as fast or clean out really blocked jets.
The other thing to try is back flowing the carb. Rev it up and then block off the air horn of the car until the engine nearly dies. Doing that a few times can clear out jets that aren't blocked to bad.
The other thing to try is back flowing the carb. Rev it up and then block off the air horn of the car until the engine nearly dies. Doing that a few times can clear out jets that aren't blocked to bad.
Definitely cause flooding, that’s why you need to keep the thing running. Didn’t say it was a fix, but it is a technique that has worked for me quite a few times in the days of the carb. Sometimes it fixed it, other times confirmed that the carb needed to be done.
Got to sign off for the day. Good luck
Yes it is a bush mechanics O/H.
Got to sign off for the day. Good luck
Yes it is a bush mechanics O/H.
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