Were can I get one of these becides rotaryshack for $18. I've checked all the local autoparts stores here and they all can't get me one.

Thanks

 

measure it and find the gm one thats the same size.

 

Atkins has them.

 

whats the benefit of using a 160 over a stock 180?

 

None that I know of, but I'm not running a turbo either. The ones Robert sells are Stant, per one of his posts.

 

It's not just the diameter, but the depth too. Just so you know there is a bypass worked into the waterpump and if you don't have a long enough thermostat it'll allways bypass the radiator. I learned the hard way trying to get a 160* stat... Just running the stocker for now.

 

Go to your local auto parts store and ask for a 160*Stant Thermostat for an 89 Chevy S-10. I kept the top of the box with the part number BUT it's buried in the garage somewhere.Hope this helps....
L8R
Joe

p.s for those who ask, a lower temp stat will open quicker to get the water/antifreeze circulating earlier than a higher temp stat thus cooling motor earlier.

 

Yes, but what will this remedy or benefit?

 

The answer you seek YOUNG JEDI is in the statement you quoted.




O.K the mystery is this............
The water will start to circulate at 160* THUS it will start to cool your motor earlier thus indirectly causing the motor to run cooler. As an example, my ST ported GSL-SE with electric fan runs at a constant 180* in S. Fl traffic, my gauge never passes the half way mark.

 

dude i cant rember the brand but i went down to my local foreighn shop and they hooked me up with one for like 13 bucks i think... most of time they have list of parts that could go in thier and fit so talk to them is my suggestion.

 

That still doesn't answer my question. I want to know exactly why you would want to run the engine cooler if the factory recommends a 180 thermostat...taking into consideration that they are intended to run slightly higher in temp because the thermostat opens at 180...
Is it because your cooling system can't keep up with the heat outside? If not, what is the benefit of running a motor under 180 degrees? Longer life? Here in Minnesota, we experiance all different types of temperatures from -40 to +100...I've never had a problem in any of these temps with my motor getting too hot with a 180 t-stat. You'd think that running the motor cooler wouldn't help at all since your running it under the normal operating temp.
Does anybody see what I am getting at here? For knowledge sake, someone please put me in my place if I am out of line on my questioning!

 

Roundabout- I want to run a cooler thermostat because I want it to run cooler. Right now I have a 180 in it and it runs 185-190. With a 160 it will start to block off the bypass hole earlier and hopefully run 170-180 in my car. Seeing as I have a haltech I can compensate for different water temps. The cooler (to a point) the water and oil the happier and longer a turbo rotary will live.

lwnslw- Will this thermostat from a '89 s-10 have the bypass plate? I'm guessing it's just like the ones you see in small block chevys.

Hades12- I just checked out Atkins and it looks like they have the regular OEM one. Do they not list it on the site?

thanks

 

The 160 allows the engine to run cooler, many people think this will help it last longer, which it may. The downside is a cooler running engine gets worse fuel mileage and does not make as much power, when it was designed to run at 180. Some of the newer engine are setup to run even hotter for emmisions and mileage.

A few years ago I rode with a guy that had a sweet *** 66 Malibu in LA. He always ran a 160, and could not give a good reason why, he just did it out of habit. One time he couldn't find a 160 and had to install a 180. His mileage and performance went up. As soon as the 160 stat came in, he went back to the colder one. Made no sense to me.

 

whats wrong with getting one from the shack?

less heat= less friction=less wear thats why a 169 thermo is the way to go!!

 

I probably shouldn't argue your point Robert, but I will a bit. Back in the day, I would find more validity to your statement, but with the improvements in oils and thier additives now days, I don't think that holds as much value.

While running cooler can reduce friction between the wear parts due to less oil thinning, the higher viscosity, (not the word I'm looking for but gives the same idea), creates more of a parasitic drag on those lubed components, thereby reducing mileage and power output.

Even with todays engines, built with closer tolerences and designed to run at higher operating temps, oil changes have been extended and engines last longer, in due partially to oil improvements and higher tolerences. A sloppy engine wears faster, whatever the operating temp.

 

a sloppy engine might wear quicker but there is more room for the material to grow at higher temps before the parts make metal to metal contact ending the motors life... the hotter the metal gets, the more it grows... bottom line.. oil and viscosity at various temps is another subject
p.s. some of the highest motors ive seen are built very "loose" to accomadate for the material growth at higher temps to avoid engine failure

 

I can understand your point in high hp applications, especially with how quickly waste heat developes, but how well does the practicality of it transfer to stock/mildly modified engines?

 

I don't have a problem with the shack but at $18 + shipping I thought I'd look around here first.

Wait a min... on your site it says 160 deg and here you say 169?

 

the nine key is right next to the zero key... LOL!...

 

ahh... fat finger.

 

They dont list it on the site. I think it was $11 with the gaskets, and he thru in a oil Filter with their name on it. Just call and they will take care of you.

And it was an OEM style with the block off plate.




You know some people Tap the baypass hole and put a plug in it and then run with not T-stat, or do that and then cut the top off a stock one. Not sure what temp you would end up with.

 

too much cheese, sorry.. i can do $20 shipped for the forum guys

 

well, i've heard the same argument that Trochoid makes a few times and it does make sense - especially with today's gas prices, where every penny counts. i tend to agree with that train of thought for cars that are daily driven and don't have much going on outside of the capabilities of factory computers, but in the cases where one has a high-powered engine and aftermarket EMS (like Setzep) the car can be retuned for better function. i also think that on track days and such is good for a little added security for those that care since it's a simple change to make.

 

Yeah, if it was a regular old n/a I wouldn't even worry about running a cooler thermostat than a 180 unless you have a 83-85 12a with one of those water/oil coolers.