K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

well..i was originally going to go with a street ported and freshly rebuilt 12A with a 48 DCOE setup...but now that i look at the used T2 motors at rotary shack it may be a little more up my alley. i know i will need an ECU and harness, as well as a SE oil pan and motor mount. i was hoping the 13B mounts to my 12A tranny...if so i may just use a beefier clutch. I would really like to have EFI and turbo..it's just more fun to me i wouldn't do many mods to it..maybe front mount. and don't worry about emissions, a/c, air pump, p/s, any of that crap..i don't need it. i'll just wire the 6 ports open and be happy. the reason i want to use my 12a tranny is i hear the T2 tranny doesn't bolt up to our driveshaft..is this true?

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

bumpity...figured the rotaryshack guy might know what to do here.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

uh..whats up? is this just impossible or nobody has any insight?

coldy13

The TII engines are 4 port, so don't worry about wiring anything open. I have no clue about the fuel injection or ECU, I'm a carb guy I think you would really want to use the TII tranny, since the 12a ones like to break with all that power and hard shifting. Send a PM to GtoRX7, he has a TII in his car and would know alot more about what needs done than I would.

680RWHP12A

wooaahhh...lots of questions......
you can use the stock tranny, you need a custom flywheel setup as follows... t2 auto. counterweight, 79-85 light steel flywheel ...... the t2 flywheel is 255 mm wich wont fit in your tranny so you need the smaller 225 flywheel

680RWHP12A

do you want to keep the turbo 2 harness? or aftermarket ecu?

and coldy is right the t2 motors are 4 port, so you dont need to wire open the 6 ports

you are right on about the se oil pan and front cover , and dont forget to slot the 12a engine bracket to fit the 13b

Makenzie71

wanna do it easy? Prolly more expensive but much easier...

www.jarcoinc.com/inventory/

Look at the bottom listing. They have two of those...everything you need...

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

dont want the tranny and stuff, just the motor and everything needed to run it i plan to use the stock T2 harness and ECU. don't need a standalone..i plan to run right around stock horsepower with the t2 motor. also..what's the different between the S4 and S5 motor? i see a $200 price difference at rotary shack..and i know the S5 revs to 8k...around how many miles are on those rotary shack motors? i want something that will lost a few thousand...

CheddaKing

i believe both the s5 and s4 Turbos have a 7000 redline... Its the s5 N/A that revs to 8k.

The difference in the turbos is the s5 engine makes 20 more HP stock ...the rotors are lighter, a little bit higher conmpression, and the turbo is better...Also, the s5 has an electronic OMP, so as long as your using stock electronics...your fine, but if your planning on going standalone in the future... youll have to premix, unless they come out with an OMP capable standalone(i remember hearing microtech was coming out with that). Finally, i believe the s4 doesnt have an electronic boost control solenoid... IF i missed anything, or am wrong, someone correct me, but i think thats about it.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

so wich would be a better choice for runnin the motor mostly stock? also the odds are the S5 motor would have less miles i beleive...

CheddaKing

I woudl say s5...if your keeping it stock, go for the extra power!

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

so my 12A tranny will be able to handle the power pretty well? its in good shape...and i run synthetic gear lube. i was planning on using a lightweight flywheel anyway..thanks for the info that i need to use a 12A flywheel! and where does the counterweight go..isn't that inside the frount housing? and why would i need to use the 13B mount if i just use my 12A front? should be able to use the factory motor mounts...(cept the 13B is a few MM longer overall..is this what you're speaking of?)

CheddaKing

The 2nd gen motors mount THROUGH the oil pan...the same oil pan which must be replaced with a gsl-se oil pan... so you can no longer use the stock s5 motor mount, you need to use your 12a front cover so you can use the front mount bracket... the stock 12a motor mount...but this will still need to be slightly modified...but its hardly a big deal. The 12a trans will hold, but not if you go crazy on it...remember it was designed for only 100 hp max so take it easy slamming the gears...

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

hehe ok..this is looking good. 680RWHP12A expect my business sometime in the near future. do you sell harnesses and ECU's as well? and can i get a price deduction for stripping a few un-needed parts from the engine?

Dysfnctnl85

iTrader: (11)

So even with the Haltech you have to premix?

I'm currently putting together a T2 swap also.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

i will more than likely use the OMP on the motor...does the rotary shack motor come with the OMP still intact? if not..i have no problem with running a premix.

CheddaKing

What year is the engine? If it is 89-91 Thats a series 5, your omp is ECU controlled, and you cant use that omp anymore. You MIGHT be able to use a -SE omp if u use the -SE front cover, but im not sure about that, ask someone who Isn't premixing. I just decided to go with premix, havent looked back!

moremazda

iTrader: (4)

No you won't! Not unless you have an adaptor custom made that will mount the 2nd Gen (S4 or S5) OMP to a first gen front cover. And you can not use the stock S5 ECU on this swap into a first gen, Unless you hook up the S5 OMP and safety wire it to the fender well. The S5 ECU will not run the motor with out having the OMP pluged in or at least thinking that OMP is pluged in.

If you want to run a stock ECU, and you are doing the swap you self, you should use the S4 motor and ECU. S4 does not have a electronic OMP. And you SHOULD not run a S5 motor with a S4 ECU. The largest differance between the two is the compression ratio 8.7 vs. 9.0. The S5 ECU has a far better ingnition map AND far better knock retard to alow the higher comp ratio. A S4 ECU by comparision has a more agressive timing curve (due to the lower comp ratio) and the knock retard is almost non-existant.

Good luck with what ever you choose.

Ryan

Dysfnctnl85

iTrader: (11)

I haven't purchased a motor or a car yet, I'm trying to plan this out as much as possible.

Is there a clear victor as to which engine is the best to do the conversion with? I mean, I plan on buying a new turbo and running a Haltech system. I would really like to avoid premixing, if possible, because that just seems like more work for me!

So, any advice?

setzep

Bah, wuss.. It's not hard to pour some oil in the tank while at the gas station!

Get a S5

Dysfnctnl85

iTrader: (11)

Okay, okay!

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

lol i think i will still use the S5..what if i just put a wire across the connector for the electronic OMP? i'm sure they have a way to bypass it.

Dysfnctnl85

iTrader: (11)

Yeah I mean with the way engine management technology has grown, you'd think that they would have fixed this by now, you know?

setzep

I don't see why you guys want to run engine oil over premix.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

yeah just pre mix the fuel and simplify the bullcrap