Paradox

iTrader: (1)

well i've got my 13b from a GSL-SE in my GS, starting doing wiring today and ended up stumped on a few things...

one thing is these two open lines i cant figure out where to put them, the previous owner cut the line on the firewall and compared to the 12a they are much different.

the one on the drivers side definetaly looks like coolant but its in a odd place for it to be. and the other side i just dont know.

any help would be appreciated. the haynes manual sure doesnt cover much when it comes to the 13b, i must have spent over a hour trying to find a pic of how to run the lines.

also can i use the throttle cable from my 12a on the 13b? i tried it quickly but it didnt seem to want to work, should i go ahead and order one for a 13b?

thanks

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

The connection in the first pic goes to the main cat converter. It supplies the air from the air pump to the cat. The hose connects to a check valve and then to a metal line that connects to the cat itself. Also, a small tube connects to where the check valve should be. The small tube connects near where that big hose exits at the intake manifold. The small tube is for the 5/6 ports.


The second connection is for the heater. It connects to the hose that exits the firewall on the first pic (one closest to the driver).

Paradox

iTrader: (1)

thanks addict. i dont have cats on the car or even a header right now (picking up a pacesetter tommorow tho) so i guess i can just block that off on the pass. side of the car...

i was pretty sure about the other line being for coolant on the firewall, but when i looked on the 12a, it looked like a oil line for sure, with a T-fitting on it and two lines.

shadowlife25

Make sure that when you do get a cat that it comes with a provision for the line from the air pump for your 5-6th ports.

Paradox

iTrader: (1)

i dont plan on ever getting a cat, there's no emissions here..

LongDuck

With that said, your '6'-ports are never going to work correctly, then. You may be better off just wiring them open unless you want to get them working using the 'SE Airpump Mod' (search).

The '6'-ports work as a 'variable intake timing' system on the SE engine to allow higher air volume at high engine rpm to broaden the torque band and horsepower output. If you don't get these ports working, you basically getting a 4-port engine with restrictions in the airflow path which actually will perform worse than a factory 4-port setup (like a 12a). That extra displacement that the 13b offers is lost if the aux ports aren't working.

Reply back if you're looking for any tips here. Mazdatrix sells a presilencer that has the correct fittings to operate factory '6'-ports on 13b engines. I use this header/presilencer and am very pleased with the overall performance, and the '6'-ports work when they're supposed to (opening at 3800rpm). HTH,

Feds

So you know, your car won't start until that fitting on the passenger side is plugged. That hung me up for 3 days on my -se swap.

Also, the hard coolant line on cars that had the behive cooler will have an extra T that you will need to plug, or get a hard line from an -SE.

PM me if you have any other trouble.

Paradox

iTrader: (1)

Longduck, well for now i think i'll just have to figure out how to wire them open for now. i need the car to be running to have the rest of the exhaust welded up anyways. i did however put a pacesetter header in today and it has a good 3/4" tapped hole in it, what is this for?

so far i have gotten the car wired up (as far as i can tell) and logically it should be turning over, instead the starter just goes and goes with a bit of a popping sound on every crank, i am getting gas. however im not too sure about spark. i'll have to mess around with that a bit more tommorow.

and thanks Feds, i was just going to leave that fitting open, i have plugged it but the car still wont start. i think its ignition related.

this is a SE engine so i dont have that T-fitting, right now i have my heater bypassed and coolant hose just runs straight across the engine to the fitting below the oil filter.

thanks for the help guys. any other suggestions would be awesome, right now im pretty stumped, errr maybe just tired from working on the car all day. im still suprised i've gotten this much done in 2 days without every doing a rotary engine transplant before tho!

LongDuck

The whole in your pacesetter header is for the O2 sensor. You'll need to pull the old one off of your stock exhaust manifold, or buy a new one. The sensor lead is right under the rear of the Dynamic Effect Intake chamber and is a single-lead wire, usually green in color (IIRC).

Wiring the '6'-ports open is a temporary solution, and you'll need to eventually fix this if you want to retain good low-end performance without sacrificing high end rpm and power. In the meantime, remove each of the 2 '6'-port actuators by removing the 2x10mm nuts that hold the actuator on the LIM. You don't have to worry about vacuum leaks here because your cat isn't hooked up to provide any back pressure to operate these, anyway.

Grab some twist-ties or other wire source and rotate the outter cam all the way toward the inside of the engine. In other words, the rear actuator rod should be turned all the way CCW, while the front actuator should be turned all the way CW. See if you can get the turning rods to stay in that position to allow full air flow.

Feds

Did you double check your key-on voltages at the ECU according to the Factory service manual?

Do ensure that there are no vacuum leaks. When I had my huge vacuum leak (a.k.a. secondary air injection port) the car would start up and run on quickstart, but die on its own. You could try that.

Paradox

iTrader: (1)

it looks like the previous owner already did this....

is there a FSM online somewhere? the haynes manual really doesnt cover the 13b well. i'm having difficulties finding just about anything 13b related.

i've got to pickup a 02 sensor too, see if that helps any

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Here you go:

http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/85_manual.html

I also have some of these files hosted as well (may be a faster connection):

http://oregonstate.edu/~abelk/Manuals/

The main sections that you will probably need are 4b, 15, and 50.

Kent