twigg

If you have a Stock FB, say a 1985 , GS, I would like to see everyones differnt opinion on what should be done and what you can do to make your FB a 13 second car. Going from Stock springs/suspention/rear end/ etc. Thanks for any feedback.

cdrad51

turbo it.

hiboost7

bridge port 13b, and some weight reduction, should be good for 13's

Alex-7

Street port 13B, Full exhaust, Webber or Holley intake, and a light flywheel will get you close. Throw in a little nitrous (50hp or so) or some 4.88 gears and you'll be there.

shm21284

stripped completely (no dash, etc) and a street ported 12a is about 2000lbs and 180 hp. Only 10 less hp and 50 more lbs than the new elise, which claims a 13.1.
13b street port, intake, exhaust=around 250 hp. Plenty for a 13 in a fb
13b turbo, stock, with exhaust = 240hp. again, plenty for a 13
13b turbo, street port, exhaust, running 14psi = 300hp. low 13s
20b with a t-51 kai, street ported, robbing AY Bera's engine, using a supra5 spd tranny, ford 9 inch rear end, full tube frame, god like driver, and maybe a 4 rotor in the back = 3500 hp hopefully enough for 4-6s ET's.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

a car with my level of weight reduction, a stock 12A with weber or holley setup and full exhaust, slicks on the back and skinnies on the front should net 13 second times.

my car with the stock nikki pulled a 9.6 in the 1/8th, which i beleive is on the way to a high 14 sec 1/4.

Turbo II-FB

or just 13bt like ME!!

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

umm i'm pretty sure that he was just talking about a 12a in the engine.

weight reduction is prob the best and cheapest ( actually no cost ) way of adding that tad more power ...
a nice RB full exhaust system ...
holley/weber carb ...

and prices go a bit steeper from there and a tad more complicated due to fab

turboed ...
transmission ...
ford rear end ...
engine swap to a 13b or better...

i would also invest a bit on the brakes too, upgrading to fc brakes or fd ... that will help you stop those horses in time before you hit a car

Turbo II-FB

what thing can you do for weight reduction on a FB??? I know my cars going to be fast when its done but .....

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

toss out passenger seats, remove console stuff, remove radio unit and speakers, carpets, ac if still there, door panels, sunroof, remove spare wheel and all accessories related, mounting metal parts in the engine bay that are unsused, emiissions, storage bins and all that metal that mounts it .... plenty of stuff to remove .. i would remove most of this stuff only if going racing but for street driving its basically only what you would like to use you'd keep.

rotor vs. piston

see sig

rotor vs. piston

*runs for flame suit*

cdrad51

DAVID GRIMES

Is this correct ? Possible ? Seems kinda high to me ? I'd say lucky to get 200 hp with that combination.

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

ya i would doubt that too ... stock 13b EFI is 135 hp ... street porting and intake and exhaust i would go maybe 170~180 hp ... maybe if it was bridge ported 250 would sound not too bad ...

Alex-7

With the mods in my sig I'm hoping for around 180 when it's fully tuned.

coldy13

Basic blowthrough turbo with a TII turbo, weber or holley carb, decent tires, LSD rear end, minor weight reduction, and you should eaisly run 13's. Ge the 60-1 hybrid done to the TII turbo and some better tires and hit 11/12's.

clean85owner

Nick at Rotary Reliabilty and Racing quoted my car at 215 flywheel horsepower 10 years ago when he built my engine.

My car is no where near 13 seconds in the quarter; not even when it was freshly broken in.

Of course, my car has a full interior, extra stereo, and a body kit.

Although, a freshly rebuilt 13B streetport with, say, a 7 inch Camden supercharger and a boost prepped Sterling carb should easily net those 13s in the quarter.

Either that or a nice bridgeport and some weight reduction, but I'd rather the supercharger myself.

GEM 13B

a dead stock, un opened import 13bt out of a 2nd gen, front mount the intercooler, after market computer, 3" exhaust from turbo and 5 speed out of a 2nd gen will have u running low 13's to mid 12's. u will need to lock the diff or upgrade cause u will smash the stndard one on hard launches.

have a look at my car at www.cardomain.com/id/gem13bt ive since done some upgrades, but with a standard 13bt and the above mentioned mods i ran 13@110mph with MASSIVE wheel spin, that was also on 13inch 175 tyres which dont really get the power to the ground at all, ie. wheel spin in 4th gear.

hope that helps.

steve84GS TII

250hp in a turbo car and 250hp in a N/A are 2 different rides all together.

Years ago,I ran mid 13s all day long with a stock 87 TII powerplant pushed to 13psi with a light flywheel,680cc secondaries and a 2.5" exhaust.It was around 250hp and pulled linearly from 3000RPM to redline.
Given equal peak HP,a broad,flat torque curve will win every time against a bridgeported,high hp N/A engine.250 N/A hp at redline is worthless when you have to launch at 3500rpms and you have no umpff until 5K.

If you want 13s consistantly in a N/A 12A,you better do some serious lightening,port it up(or nitrous),rev it,and work on your driving technique a LOT.

GEM 13B

i might add to that my car spat out 185kw's at the wheels with the above mentioned set up, i also know af another 1st gen in adelaide that has basically an identical set up but ran slicks and 800cc injectors and has ran a 11.8, now thats damn quick for a unopened engine.

ghost1000

iTrader: (1)

I had a 12a street port. Second gen trans racing beat exhaust 450cfm Holley. 3.9 LSD.

If I tune the carb it will go 13s

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

8-year-old thread, brought back from the dead.

thethingthatshouldnotbe

Zombie!!!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

on the agenda this year is to drag Peepers to the dragstrip and just have fun.

i've never done it before, and the engine will love it, so it seems like fun. it should be able to take the air cleaner cover off and be in the 13's, but who cares?! its really just an excuse to fire the thing up and play