12A Throttle & Mixture Adjust Screws?
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12A Throttle & Mixture Adjust Screws?
Ok, I know this is probably obvious to anyone whom has worked on the 12A engine Carb, but for the life of me I cannot find the mixture or throttle adjust screws on my carb. With the carb installed on a 12A 85 GSL which side are these screws on. Even with the air cleaner off I cannot see anything that resembles either the carb manual or pictures on Sterlings site.
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great photo
great photo, not the easiest to get to with the rats nest, but at least I know exactly where to look, and really didn't want to turn the wrong screw :-), I will see if I can get this damn thing to idle tonight. thanks
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Sterling put together an excellent procedure for setting the idle speed/mixture. Look for in under "Tuning the Nikki" at www.sterlingmetalworks.com
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thanks for photos
thanks for the other photos, and the sterling articles. I have started reading those along with the carb manual. I went through the engine again tonight. I checked the plugs again to make sure it is not fouling, I checked the timing (after replacing the marks with the wife's nail polish), I checked for vacuum leaks, I checked the fuel lines, fuel line check valve, and although I know I have another day of going over all the step by step procedures for verifying all of the check valves, etc, I have a feeling, that I am going to learn how to rebuild a carb, however at this point, I've pretty much done a bunch of other mechanical things (wheel bearings, brake calipers, struts, shocks, cat converter, muffler, so how hard can the carb be :-)
Anyway to go over the symptoms again. the car will start cold on two cranks with the choke pulled out, it will start to rev up (although not to 3000 or 3500 rpm like I remember, and then slowly spudder up and down as it heats up like a vacuum leak and then die. or if it stays running long enough for the choke to pull in, then it dies. At that point the only way to get it started and run again is to pump the gas, which then leads to, too much fuel getting into the new cat converter and making it glow red hot, which I only tried once. the exhaust/cat is fine during the warm up period.
Anyway to go over the symptoms again. the car will start cold on two cranks with the choke pulled out, it will start to rev up (although not to 3000 or 3500 rpm like I remember, and then slowly spudder up and down as it heats up like a vacuum leak and then die. or if it stays running long enough for the choke to pull in, then it dies. At that point the only way to get it started and run again is to pump the gas, which then leads to, too much fuel getting into the new cat converter and making it glow red hot, which I only tried once. the exhaust/cat is fine during the warm up period.
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Timing
Yes, I have checked both the leading and trailing timing a couple of times, and during that initial startup, the marks are right on 0 and 20 degrees
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