Ok guys this make take a bit, but I am going to try to upload the 70+ pictures of this I have.
I know I used rtv in excess, along with about 2/3 too much RTV, but live and learn!

This weekend I rebuilt my buddies 84 GS Mazda RX7. It had a Pinapple racing street ported brand new motor with less then 11k on it. The radiator went out and caused soft seal failure, allowing water to flood the combustion chamber. A new soft seals kit was ordered and the motor reassembled. Total project time is 3 days, with 1.5 hours stacking up the motor.

Pictures will be updated with info, bear with me, this may take a bit.
The car after the engine was pulled, I also painted the engine bay and repaired the body work that needed to be done.



The blown engine. After a year the unpainted irons started to rust...


The rotors revieced a simple green bath and a good scrubbing to remove the supprizingly large buildup of carbon on them.


The rusty irons were cleaned, taped off carefully and painted.

 

The housings were cleaned and semi polished.



The seals for each rotor were laid out how they were removed and marked by a colored marker.




The cornerseals and springs were soaked in a thinner to remove the excess carbon scrubbing had no effect on.


Notice the porting job. It was not the best IMO. On the second iron, there were stray marks where the tool had jumped and scratched the surface.



Heres a overall shot of the rear iron and stationary gear. Everything looked new.

 

so far it looks awesome, how much did it cost you to semi polish the housings, I love the look of polished housings!

 

The favorite assembly lube.....



A packed rotor.

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The eshaft set inplace with the packed rotor. Buckets work great :-D.


I applied rtv to the legs.... For future reference use the super black or grey rtv.


Hylomar was then applied to the gasket mating surface.


The tool we used for measuring shaft endplay.


More hylomar and rtv.......

 

Side seals and springs being insterted along with apex springs and corner peices, then the corner springs and plugs.


Hylomar being applied to the housings and water seal channels. Note: you should not use this much hylomar. lol


Inner and outer water seals installed. Always check for proper installment.


Thanks bro.... I sure look happy.... lol not in the best mood.


More placment of the seals....


And installing the final side seals....


Rtv and hylomar applied to the intermediate plate...

 

Hylomar done...


Intermediate plate installed. It took a combination of help from my bro and placment of the eshaft to get it on correctly over the dowel pins.


Hylomar and lube applied to the intermediate plate.


Next rotor packed and installed.


Correct water seal placment...


More rtv and hylomar done....


Housing installed. Dowelpins and orings in place/being installed.

 

Almost done.... Rotor packed and end plate almost ready to install.


End plate installed.


Flywheel installed. No pictures of the tension bolts being torqued to spec sorry.


Front assembly put together.


End play was measured and front cover was installed. Bro toruqing the cover down.


Motor all done. Oil assembly tube installed, oil pressure regulator installed in front cover, and oil pan put on.


All done and installed.

 

All done and installed!





Car has 207 miles on it and starts right away. Runs great and has had no issues or leaks.
Cant wait to build my 13bt now.

 

Wow great thread! Any tips or little buggers you learned and owould like to share?

Trevor

 

hey. awsome. looks good. you wouldn't have any pics of the exhaust porting done?

glad it went well.

 

Heres the best shot I have, sorry.


Little tips?
Superglue for keeping the little apex seal corners in works wonders.
Hylomar is best spread with your fingers, not a crappy art brush.
Rotor faces and all gasket mating surfaces clean up really well with a wire brush attachment for your grinder or power drill.
Use lots of vasoline to pack everything in.
Double check clearances and tolerances of all parts.

Its really not that hard! Having an assistant helps alot.

The housings semi polished were done by the owner of the car with a dremal and some fine brush attacments.

 

That's funny that your engine has what appears to be a '76-'78 non-nitrided R5 front plate, while the rest of them are nitrided. The rear appears to be a Y casting since it lacks the rib from the oil filter pedestal down to the dowel pin. What casting is your intermediate plate, if you don't mind me asking?

I have the remains of a rusty pineapple engine. It had a Y front plate, nitrided R5 intermediate and 3B rear. The 3B was extremely rusty while the other two were not. 3b is from '74-'75. Nitrieded R5 is from '79+ JDM engines in Luces etc. Y are from 1st gen RX-7s.

I guess Rob likes to mix and match plates.

 

Jeff, I no longer have the car in my posession, the owner has been left with the task to put miles on it.
I will however check this weekend when we do the rear end swap.

 

Mine is a 1983, with a 12a of course. I am trying to brush up on my Rotary specs as it seems I lost some of that info in Iraq..... ought to be fun. Good Luck! -Scott

 

Me too! I am going to attempt the porting myself too. If I mess up then back to the junkyard for another motor.

 

That would be great. Y castings are about a pound lighter than R5 castings. I guess if you wanted to build a lighter engine that will never be boosted very high, Y is the way to go.

 

is that exhaust ported on the bottom and not the top?

 

That's a good question. It looks like they went down which will open the port really soon. Maybe too soon. I'm sure they ported upward too. I've only ever ported upward.