feerocknok

Ooookay. A power outage just took out everything I typed up...
'81 12A into a '78 Toyota swap started today, blah blah blah, boo to power outages.
The 20R was a good motor with only 108k on the ticker, but I need something original. This is the first step towards turning the truck into a vehicle that no one can accept.

I need help deciding what the labelled things in these pictures are. I have presumptions to what some of them are but I need reassurance, and on others, I need details, and others, I have no idea.





A - Heater hose
B - dunno
C - Heater hose
D - Broken vacuum tee?
E - Vacuum actuated choke
F - brown box (does that screw need ground it?)
G - Oil cooler line?
H - Oil cooler line?
I - Vacuum for brake master cylinder?
J - Fuel line (send or return?)
K - Fuel line (send or return?)
L - Vacuum for cruise control
M - Clutch master cylinder (should this only have one line going to it?)

If I can get these things figured out, get a header built, and get my starter wired up, I should have this running by Tuesday. Then I'll have Alot of things to do to get the truck moving down the road, but the swap looks pretty dang easy.

two79rx7's

B: air control valve and antiafterburn valve.

D: that side is for the vacuum sensing tube that goes up to No.2 choke diagham


E = oil meter pump important do a search with key word

feerocknok

Can I block off the ACV while doing the rat nest removal?

Rx Seven

iTrader: (12)

This should help you out.


http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/manuals.html

WAS:12A

iTrader: (4)

G+H are the oil cooler lines.

kgray

A- Brake booster line
B- Air pimp for cats - make a block off plate
C- Heater hose
D- Vacuum secondary-I think
E- OMP / MOP
f- Fusible links- 1 needed- middle- engine- others are headlights
g- Oil cooler line
h- Oil cooler line
i- vacuum line- search "rats nest removal"
j- Fuel inlet
k- Fuel return
l- A/C idle compensator
m- Clutch slave- only 1 line

kgray

With the rats nest removal, you only need 1 vacuum line for the vacuum advance on the distributor, all the rest can be capped off. You will need some venting for the oil. I drilled a hole in the oil cap an put a valve cover breather on it and haven't had a problem with "lung mustard".

feerocknok

Last couple questions for now:
Where is the other heater hose?
What should I do about the oil cooler? It looks like I forgot to grab it off my donor car.
Would an inexpensive universal one work? And where do I source the lines from?
Just go to a wrecking hard for these?

Thank you all for all the help! This is really coming together well!

two79rx7's

L is the NO1 choke diapham

it cracks open the choke a bit if accelerating by creating vaccum or if delay valve opens se FSM for whole chain of events with delay valve.

D above from my prior post is vaccum for the NO2 choke diapham
after engine starts it crack open the choke a bit

the wonders of complication they could think up... amazing

kgray

The other heater hose... This might be the hard part. It was built into the rx-7 lower radiator outlet. A radiator shop should be able to weld one onto yours.
Few aftermarket oil coolers can dissipate heat as well at that of the 7's. In fact, it is one of the best. If you can, go back and get it, located in front/below the radiator. Make sure you get the fittings on the cooler. Those are the big parts. New hoses can be made as long as you've got all 4 fittings at many hydraulic shops.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

You can do something inline in the lower radiator hose for the heater hose. It would have two larger fittings and one smaller fitting. Not too hard to fabricate if necessary.

I suggest you read as much info as you can about rotary stuff. Use the search feature. Also check out this thread for a little on carb and manifold mods. https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=637323

feerocknok

I'm running the stock '81 radiator, so the heater hose issue will only be a problem as to buying a longer line.
Gonna call the wrecking yard tomorrow and try to get ahold of the oil cooler, lines, and a stock manifold so I can start this thing up.

Found one More thing I don't know about:

The line next to the brake booster.

I appreciate everyone's time immensely.

Rogue_Wulff

The line by the booster, just leave it capped. It was for the #2 anti-afterburn valve.

feerocknok

From the distributor cap, there are two wires that go to the coils. They are marked 'L' and 'T' (trailing and leading, I assume). The coils each have a yellow wire coming off of them; one has a blue stripe, the other has a green stripe.
Which coil is leading and which one is trailing?

feerocknok

bump

Rogue_Wulff

Going from memory here (and I'm just old enough to have questionable memory) but I think the blue striped wire goes to the leading coil. In a FB, it would have been the rear coil.

kgray

I am not sure. Here is a link to factory service manuals and also wiring diagrams. I believe one of those wires is for tachometer reading...

feerocknok

Ahaha! My motor is seized up! It sat for the last 12 years and I decided to check if it would spin today. My father (200 lbs) forcing on a breaker bar on the e-shaft couldn't get it to move with the tranny in neutral.

May have to find another motor... Hopefully I can get ahold of a rotary.

Thank you guys for all your help so far!!!

kgray

You may not need a new engine... search "carbon lock" and "decarbonizing". It may just be carbon locked. try puring some oil in through the carb and plug holes.

feerocknok

Plug which holes?
I'll do a search and see what I can find.

I have a line on a well running '88 for $900, if I can't get this one going. I posted a thread about it in the 2nd Gen forum.

feerocknok

Oh! Spark plug holes! Just went out and put some in. Those plug holes are TINY!!!

I'll see if I can turn it in the AM. If so, you just saved me a bunch of green!

kgray

Try the lower ones, they are much bigger and also down the intake... You could also try seafoam or auto tranny fluid. There should be many threads on carbon lock and the likes, all with different methods.

kgray

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=281207
Great thread! Reiterating what it said, DO NOT force the seals to unstick, and turn the engine over counter clockwise.