First: I know NOTHING about carbs on ANYTHING, I'm just familiar with fuel injection.

Today I decided I'd get it running, so I put a good battery in it, started pushing like hell with my b2200 and after about 400m it finally fired consistantly enough on its own to run.. it stalled a few times but once it was hot it would start by pushing it like 2". it REEALLY REALLY smoked for the first 2 or 3 minutes, and then the smoke settled down.. the P.0. poured a bunch of oil down the carb, so after I defouled the plugs she was good to go.. Anywys, here are the problems.

It's got the stock nikki carb. There are (at least) 2 major problems.. 1: the choke cable isn't connected. I pulled off the blue airbox breather thingy and figured out how to work the choke, and what moved when I worked it, and I thought that I had the right thing to hook the cable to BUT when I attach the cable to that, it doesn't move the choke. Is something wrong with the linkage or do I have the wrong thing? I have a picture of the carb, I hooked it up to the thing on the top left in the picture. It's NOT connected in the picture.

2: I am almost 100% sure that the secondaries are not working. When I pump the gas pedal with the car off they don't open, and above 3500-4500 the car has NO power. What's up with this, how do I fix it?

The car appears to have no/minimal emmissions crap attached to it, and idles nicely after it warms up at around 1000-1200RPM.

 

You would have to hold out the **** now for the choke to work even if it were hooked up to the linkage. It's going to have be played with to to get it to work. It's hard to discribe without pictures, and pretty straight forward.
The secondaries are vacuum operated and the engine needs to be under significant load for them to open. (They won't open in your driveway.)
The carb is pretty dirty, and I suspect the fuel filter needs to be changed. Thjis is the cause of your power problem above 4-5K rpm.
Your idle is a bit high. See if you can lower it to about 800.

 

Ahhhhhhhhhhh, I love pics. First off, your missing the choke heater and all the associated linkage. Thats why your choke isint working as advertised. I also dont see any choke cable? where is it in your pic? It supposed to go thru the hole/tab thats right in front of your accel cable. Top most thingie.

Yes, from the pic I can tell you that your secs are not working. The throttle return spring , actually the backup spring is off its perch. Its completely hosed. You need to fix this. Its easy to fix. Heres a link to my cardomain site that details this problem. I had that damn thing come off during a race and it pissed me off till I figured it out. So I share this with everyone. Its at the bottom of teh page. Oh and sterling is right. They wont open in your driveway.

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/266801/4

 

The choke cable is just tucked away on the other side of the engine bay, we tryed hooking it up but when we pulled out the choke it would only come out maby one centimeter and nothing would open on the carb, I'm shure we just had it hooked up wrong.
As for the high idle, aparantly the engine is ported so that could explain it.

I'm shure Terrh will be fixing the secondary problem tomorrow right when he see's this
Thanks

 

Yea, it wont open cause the choke heater is gone. It connects the cable tab link to the choke arm link. Hard to describe in text. If you wire the two pieces of linkage together it'll work.

 

woot! There appears to be a TON of crap missing off my carb, lol.. maybe I better hit up the junkyard and see if I can scavenge anything.

Carl: I have more pics.. Unfotunatly they're too blurry to be useful Where is the return spring located? I haven't seen ANYTHING that looks like those bottom pics on your cardomain page there ANYWHERE.
I think you're right though, becaues the car revvs slowly between 4k and 7k, and seems to be WAY torquey down low, and it's like hitting a wall when you hit 4500ish rpm

I'm not sure about the size of the fuel tanks in these cars or ANYTHING (my first "real" FB).. but the car used about 1/4 of a tank (maybe a bit less?) driving maybe 10KM and idling for an hour.. does this sound right to you? Just seems .. excessive. I realize that 7's arent exactly great on gas (my TII SUCKS it down) and it DID idle for quite a while.....

 

Good catch!
(Friggin show-off! )

 

I just fixed this and I didn't notice any difference! Does this mean my secondaries are still not opening? Is there a problem if my stock 12A won't spin tires on a wet road with just gas and no clutch?
Grant

 

With the car off, manually operate the primary throttle linkage. When its held open, manually open the secondary using the link/tab on the vacuum diaphragm box. Check for linkage binding or incorrectly installed.

 

When I do that it moves but it makes this sort of gargling sound in the carb. The is definately some sort of air movement. The linkage appears fine.
Grant

 

You might want to remove the cover and inspect the diaphragm for damage/holes etc.

 

Sounds like thats what I'm gonna be doing tomorrow! So I take it the gargling sound isn't a good thing right? I'm also going to get some WD-40 or similar and make sure that linkage is moving well. I might cut the spring a bit too but I might just get it opening first. I wonder if I could get just a diaphragm from Mazda or if I'd need to order it.
On a side note my car kind of lurches if I coast below about 2000 RPM, is this normal?

 

REBUILD TIME!

 

Thats what I'm thinking. I'm really very against rebuilding the carb because I need the car to get to work, but I will if I have to. I may just replace the diaphragm though because everything else is fine.
Grant

P.S. Anyone know what could cause a rythmic misfire?

 

Get a junkyard carb to rebuild. Then when its done, unbolt the old one and put the new one on. And also, get a heat shield for over the manifold.

 

Sounds like a plan. Now all I need is a carb.............

 

4 letters------------- Ebay

 

MMMM, ebay! Too bad I just lost my clutch master so I'm pretty much gonna be tapped out on funds what with my exhuast getting done too so it sounds like carb work is the next step to do in a few weeks. The car is drivable though so I'll just keep on using it. I took the spring out of the secondary diaphragm today and it almost made a difference but I could be wrong. Either way the more I drive the car the better it seems to get.
Grant

P.S. I sourced out new master/slave for $200 Canadian or I can get it done for $275. Considering the fact that it's a dailing driver and I have zero tools or space at my house I thinkI'm just gonna have to pony-up and let the pros take over.