Freeskier7791

Marginally, Its fairly easy to swap in a walbro 255 fuel pump and set up the the FI

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

The walbro is a lousy choice when used with the stock fpr on a stock rail. According to Karack, it puts out 60psi base pressure. This will tend to flood. I experienced this myself. Annoying. I like the MSD 2225 pumps.

And then there are the starvation issues of using a 12A tank for EFI. Been there, done that, not gonna do it again.

And then there is the Rube Goldberg stock EFI manifolding and ECU from the 1980s. Ancient technology. But then you need some other kind of aftermarket ECU with all its custom wiring and tuning involved.

That's why I stick with hogged out Nikkis on 13Bs whether for boost or NA. Mine do everything I need them to do, and then some. I would require a V8 to get the kind of performance I'm getting now out of 13B, but then there would be the weight penalty of the V8 which I am not interested in. I would certainly never do anything less than an 8 banger if I was ever going to do such a piston swap.

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

I meant swapping an engine not designed for the car. You're gonna have to figure up mounts, getting enough cooling (radiator space), getting fuel to it (I think you need to weld in a sump), exhausting it (granted I think the exhaust is all on the right side which is good), transmitting the power to the road and keeping driveline angles good.

There is more to slapping an engine in a car than just that slapping it in. Where if you stay in the rotary world all you have to do is "slap it in". I wouldn't call that marginally.


If you are up to it GO FOR IT. Don't let anybody stop you. I'd just assume buy an IS250 before I got an engine and stuck it in something not made for it.


EDIT: whats up with the oe 12A??? Fix that if you can.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

You say this as if you've personally done it many times. What cars and how many
did you do? I'm familiar with a lot of the rotary folks here around Charlotte and
especially up in mooresville.

I agree with Qing, its a lot of work to put anything but a rotary in a 7. All kinds of
fabrication for lots of little issues that make what appears to be simple a very
complex task. I know because I've had buddies to it and saw it all with my own
eyes.

Dwjwii

iTrader: (1)

Well, the 12A, like I said, is definitely running, however, it's not "reliable." I can't drive it to base and use it when I go to an appointment. It's normally not "cooled down" enough to restart. That being said, what should be a 15 minute appointment turns into an hour or more, pretty easily between starting/warm-up, idling for 5-10 minutes before shutdown, the appointment it's self, and then the time before it starts again with again, another warm-up. Hopefully, I don't foresee too many appointments in my future, however, I'd like to be able to turn it off like I do, then be able to turn it back on and run back to my job or to the house. I have a Weber DCOE 45 side draft on it, and am looking at getting a tune when I get back, however, I don't think that's the only problem going on? It might be though. I've only had the car since the 18th or so of December. It has an in inline fuel pump, seams to be fine and pushing enough fuel... I think it's truly in dire need of a carb tune. Unfortunately, there are very few decent car shops in Idaho, and even fewer people that have ever seen/worked on a carbureted engine let alone a Rotary... It's hard to find decent help in the Boise/Mountain Home area. For running a stock engine, what is a relatively inexpensive suspension set-up? I'm not trying to race it, or auto-x. Just take it for a spirited ride on a weekend or weekday. Any set-ups under $400-$500 that I could do in my garage on a weekend?

wankel=awesome

You just described how a factory ignition works on a poorly tuned carb. Your engine isn't "cooling down", its evaporating unburnt gasoline that's all over the walls of the combustion chambers because of that stupid DCOE.

peejay

DCOEs work very well when they are set up well. The first time I ever drove one, I didn't know the engine wasn't stock until I opened the hood.

This is also a clue that a single DCOE is not a performance upgrade. You really need a dual DCOE. A single 45 feels exactly like a stock Nikki.

Dwjwii

iTrader: (1)

It's dual. There are 2 tubes coming from it sideways. I don't think I have a pic on my phone, but it is dual. Would the MSD ignition system help out with the evaporating of excess fuel? I'm going to take it to a guy to get professionally tuned. I haven't worked enough with carbs to tune it in how it should be.

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

Jetting and changing the setup of the carburetor to correctly match the exhaust and engine will make it go away.

Forgive my DCOE ineptness... but there are two venturies that are completely separate? If so you might want to look into vacuum syncing.


heavier ignition isn't gonna fix the issue of improper fuel delivery.


What's wrong with the nikki?


What I mean is "did it run fine with the nikki, and then develop these issues with a DCOE?"

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I'm so glad I'm Nikki-only these days. I do have a DCOE though. Probably gonna put it up for sale at some point.

j_tso

iTrader: (2)

When people say dual DCOE they mean 2 DCOE carbs. Like this:

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

^^^ oh good god that looks obnoxious. Then again a motorcycle rack ain't much worse.

wankel=awesome

Well the MSD helps, but the carb being tuned will be the biggest help. We keep suggesting nikki because we know exactly what jets/bleeds to run to get you started.

My bet is that it's just running way too rich.

Dwjwii

iTrader: (1)

I don't know how it ran with the Nikki.... when I got the car, it had the Weber and that's it. No Nikki. Being that I'm not physically with the car at this moment, I can't really change anything on it to see if it runs better or not. Definitely going with msd ignition, and definitely getting it tuned. These are guaranteed when I get back. Hopefully that helps with the situation. Any suggestions as far as suspension goes? Just a daily driver with the occasional spirited drive. No auto x or anything. Suggestions for a weekend/garage project around $4-500?

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

RB springs with a nice set of new shocks and strut inserts.

Dwjwii

iTrader: (1)

So, I was planning on RB springs, with KYB shocks.

wankel=awesome

I didnt know the KYB AGX was still available for the first gen rx7...

Dwjwii

iTrader: (1)

So, the fronts are in-stock, the rears are a "special order." That, to me, says that they have them, but are in storage and will take an extra day to get... or they are just plain out. Either way, seriously considering the ones for the front before they are gone....

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

What site is that on? I thought the adjustable KYBs were non-obtanium. I can tell
you the KYB G2 nonadjustables will not work well with the RB springs.

Dwjwii

iTrader: (1)

So I take it this is a decent set-up? I should buy before they are all gone? Being that they are adjustable, they should work just fine right?

wankel=awesome

I'm 99% certain those are FC struts

Freeskier7791

You're gonna hate me but I'm on the dark side lol. I have an 85 GSL with an LT1 I swapped. Im also an engineer so I love figuring out how to make things work, building engine mounts and such is fun to me

peejay

I'm 100% sure, those are the struts I used to run when I first did my FC front end conversion.

peejay

Nice. I keep thinking about getting a 4.3 V8 (they are cheap to free, nobody wants them!) and sticking a pair of takeoff LT1 heads on them. The LT1's valves WILL clear the 4.3's smaller bores.

Would be a fun little motor without massively overpowering the chassis.

Dwjwii

iTrader: (1)

So, the difference would be what exactly? Would they fit, but just not be pretty or what? Am I talking the difference of apples and pears?