Dulie

I have the opportunity to purchase an '85 RX-7 for $800, it has 106K miles on it, and has been sitting for over 5 years. There is some leaking under the oil cooler, and the clutch is flat, the brakes are also flat too. I'm already planning on getting most all the consumable parts replaced or getting all the fluids changed. I'm also planning on rebuilding the carb.

The engine turns...but I had the wrong spark plug wrench today so I couldn't get the plug out to try and turn the engine further by hand.

Pictures on my friend's photo site.

Let me know what you think.

evil_motors

iTrader: (3)

website link wont pass security verification.. but i would say for a non running car that is a little bit much.. i bought my last first gen for 700 fully running with very little problems. and the current one i got non running i bought for $200

OneRotor

iTrader: (3)

need pictures, add the *[IMG]//[IMG]* link from a photobucket account so we can see what the car looks like. I purchased my FB for $800, and all it needed to get it drivable was a vacuum line, and mine only had 90k on it when I bought it, with fresh paint and new tires. I'd talk him down ALOT, unless it's super clean.

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

it looks pretty good, i'd try to talk him down a bit more, but it's an ok price for it, would have to see some interior pics, mine was very clean inside, outside was black primed 119k miles, the only thing it really needed to run was the clutch slave cylinder, but even that worked it just sometimes liked to go all the way to the floor ...he wanted 900$ for it and i talked him down to $700, but the inside was really well taken care of.

speedracer_not

if the engine sounds strong and the rear wheel wells are relatively intact,

then yes.........

but that car is in south dakota, so the rear wheel wells are probably 100% rusted out from salting the roads during winter. So it might be a $$$ pit.

Dulie

wheel wells are fine, it wasn't driven in the winter...I suppose I should have gotten a pic of that.

The security verification is because the site is hosted by a friend of mine...he uses https to get through the firewall at work (it doesn't filter https it seems) and doesn't want to pay the $150+ for a signed certificate until he is serious about opening an online store (in beta right now). If you just acknowledge it in Firefox 3, and just take the cert, you'll be able to get in. He doesn't ask for any account information to get into the site.

If he does anything to you, stealing ur cheezeburgers or anything, I'll hit him, or worse. If anything, I'll give you his address and you can get a bounty on him...fair?

BTW: the lines are all supple, but I'll still replace everything that has had oil on it for awhile (leak under the oil cooler), the tires are checked, etc.

The interior is faded pretty bad, cracked in a few spots, but clean and the seats are OK.

Let me know if u need to know anything else.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

that link caused a security popup saying phishing site detected and recommended me block it. got my '84 for $50. just had to drop my engine in it and i was driving it.

PercentSevenC

Host the pics on Photobucket/Tinypic/whatever please.

evil_motors

iTrader: (3)

ok i looked at it and its about in the same shape as the one i just got for 250 bucks. so yeah offer him like 500 i definately wouldnt pay 800 for it.

speedracer_not

wheel wells are never fine on our decade old cars.

You need to pull the storage bins and check for rust. Unless the car has never seen rain, or someone already repaired the damage, there will be some sub surface rust.

Sometimes so bad that it cannot be economically repaired (less than $500) by a skilled shade tree savant mechanic. To give an example, a body shop estimated $1000 to $4000. I am repairing mine for about $100. $20 for the steel plates, $40 for welding, $10 for body seam sealer , $20 weld through primer, and a ton of work.

Dulie

anybody got any pics of what to look for when it comes to the rust? Like I've said before, I'm a total newbie.