What did you do to your FB today?
05-18-12, 06:06 PM
#726
What did I do today? I thought about swapping out the Icy engine in favor of a freshly rebuilt S4 NA and throwing a weber 45dcoe on it! All I need is the $158 upper elbow manifold from RB to match the S4 NA lower many. Also gotta maybe get some Atkins inserts or something.
It's in the white REPU that my brother wants. He's wanted a rotary truck since he saw a white one in someone's driveway back in high school. But he decided to do the whole family thing. Well now he's a place whewre he can finally do something about his life long dream. I can certainly help him out with that.
The Icy engine could go in the white REPU. Or I could build a new R5 13B for it. Still debating.... Hmm, building new would let Icy stay in her FB, and less lost time for me (well, engine "quickie" swaps aren't considered a waste of time by me but you get the idea, it's less work), plus I could customize any little thing on the new REPU engine specifically for the truck like NOT install some freeze plugs for a faster warmup (he lives like 1 mile from his place of work), and paint the engine whatever color scheme my brother wants vs just going with the Icy scheme. It's a white REPU so the Icy scheme could work, but he requested a bright happy Mazda blue on the irons and a nice silver "aluminum" color on the housings and front cover.
Of course if I did all this, the nice S4 NA would still be available for some future project. It's a fresh rebuild and felt pretty good with only like 4 miles on it. Decisions.
It's in the white REPU that my brother wants. He's wanted a rotary truck since he saw a white one in someone's driveway back in high school. But he decided to do the whole family thing. Well now he's a place whewre he can finally do something about his life long dream. I can certainly help him out with that.
The Icy engine could go in the white REPU. Or I could build a new R5 13B for it. Still debating.... Hmm, building new would let Icy stay in her FB, and less lost time for me (well, engine "quickie" swaps aren't considered a waste of time by me but you get the idea, it's less work), plus I could customize any little thing on the new REPU engine specifically for the truck like NOT install some freeze plugs for a faster warmup (he lives like 1 mile from his place of work), and paint the engine whatever color scheme my brother wants vs just going with the Icy scheme. It's a white REPU so the Icy scheme could work, but he requested a bright happy Mazda blue on the irons and a nice silver "aluminum" color on the housings and front cover.
Of course if I did all this, the nice S4 NA would still be available for some future project. It's a fresh rebuild and felt pretty good with only like 4 miles on it. Decisions.
05-18-12, 06:14 PM
#727
Does it sound bad only when listening to the radio, or also with CD/MP3/etc?
Does the noise change as RPM increases?
05-18-12, 06:31 PM
#728
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I'll try the belt thing, although it is my wp belt so I'll be quick with it and do it while it's cool. I've already checked and changed the power and ground sources.
It does get worse with more rpm and does it on any radio/aux setting. My ignition is such a mess, it's off an '80 and looks really rigged up lol. My whole car needs rewired.
It does get worse with more rpm and does it on any radio/aux setting. My ignition is such a mess, it's off an '80 and looks really rigged up lol. My whole car needs rewired.
Last edited by jeg0024; 05-18-12 at 06:33 PM.
05-19-12, 08:26 AM
#733
love the braaaap
I'll try the belt thing, although it is my wp belt so I'll be quick with it and do it while it's cool. I've already checked and changed the power and ground sources.
It does get worse with more rpm and does it on any radio/aux setting. My ignition is such a mess, it's off an '80 and looks really rigged up lol. My whole car needs rewired.
It does get worse with more rpm and does it on any radio/aux setting. My ignition is such a mess, it's off an '80 and looks really rigged up lol. My whole car needs rewired.
05-19-12, 10:20 AM
#734
Got the hood realigned & locked down, grille back on. Decided that I might as well clean the front wheels while they were off - - after all, they had 100 miles worth of dust on them from Tuesday's failled smog test trip - - and got them on and torqued, put the car back down.
I did inspect for straight-shot hood release approaches first, but with full SA smog in place there is not enough room to run a hand up there. The long-screwdriver approach is doable, but you need a light up there to see what you're doing.
Since she'd sat for a couple days with the battery connected while I couldn't open the hood, I gave her a run up to temperature to charge the batt and just to hear her happy purr.
I have a decibel meter in my tool kit, so just for grins I decided to test her exhaust note at idle.
Full stock build with an RB powerpulse muffler, at idle she reads almost exactly 70 dBa @ 1 ft., idling at 800 rpm. For comparsion, a normal conversation at 3 ft runs around 60-65 dBa:
http://www.gcaudio.com/resources/howtos/loudness.html
She's a subtle one.
I did inspect for straight-shot hood release approaches first, but with full SA smog in place there is not enough room to run a hand up there. The long-screwdriver approach is doable, but you need a light up there to see what you're doing.
Since she'd sat for a couple days with the battery connected while I couldn't open the hood, I gave her a run up to temperature to charge the batt and just to hear her happy purr.
I have a decibel meter in my tool kit, so just for grins I decided to test her exhaust note at idle.
Full stock build with an RB powerpulse muffler, at idle she reads almost exactly 70 dBa @ 1 ft., idling at 800 rpm. For comparsion, a normal conversation at 3 ft runs around 60-65 dBa:
http://www.gcaudio.com/resources/howtos/loudness.html
She's a subtle one.
05-19-12, 12:36 PM
#736
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The 79 alternator actually has a condenser on it as well, more than likely for noise suppression just like the ignition. Its needed because the alternator actually puts out an AC style signal and that is rectified into DC by essentially cutting off the negative pulse that the AC signal produces. In solid state regulator/rectifier units, this is accomplished through diodes, but I'm not entirely sure how they do it on the mechanical external regulator. If the condenser on the system fails, the alternator will create noise in the electrical system that the radio will pick up. So in reality, without the circuitry that condition the alternator output, your DC alternator is actually a low voltage AC generator.
05-19-12, 02:18 PM
#738
Lives on the Forum
Thread Starter
Sat and stared at her for a while. 
Can't wait til I can spend more than a few minutes on my feet at a time. Off work, time to kill, can't work on car. What a drag
I will have to continue to live vicariously through my friends for a couple more weeks. lol.
.
Can't wait til I can spend more than a few minutes on my feet at a time. Off work, time to kill, can't work on car. What a drag
I will have to continue to live vicariously through my friends for a couple more weeks. lol.
.
05-19-12, 09:53 PM
#739
The definition of 'real life.'
I'm still seeing the bowl levels rise slowly about 20 minutes after shutdown, and then fall later over a period of seval hours... but I don't seem to be flooding. The range of rise and fall is less than I previously recall; the rear window never quite fills with fuel, and a day later there is still some fuel visible in the window.
Start-up has been excellent, regardless of delay after shutdown; hot start is hands free, cold start with the choke out is a 2-second no-touch (pull choke, turn key) process at most.
I never paid close attention to the behavior of bowl level over time until I started having the flood issue, so I honestly don't know if that is just normal behavior with a Nikki after shutdown as fuel vapor pressure and residual heat moves through the vent system, or if it's indicative of a problem that I have improved but not eliminated. I don't have any other examples to compare with, and as far as I know no one else wit ha stockSA has ever tracked and documented the bowl levels over time after a shutdown.
Now that the car is fully together, I plan on doing a little testing with opening the vent system after shutdown & seeing if this has an effect. It's time consuming because the process of heat-cycling the car and then waiting for it to cool fully takes a couple of hours.
Main thing I would suggest is frequent oil changes whenever you are dealing with flooding problems; I think some of my quick wearout was due to not changin the oil frequently while I fought the issue, due to the very low number of miles I was driving. The vent system even when working perfectly stores fuel vapor in the crankcase; under flood conditions the excess fuel can end up diluting your oil.
I'm still seeing the bowl levels rise slowly about 20 minutes after shutdown, and then fall later over a period of seval hours... but I don't seem to be flooding. The range of rise and fall is less than I previously recall; the rear window never quite fills with fuel, and a day later there is still some fuel visible in the window.
Start-up has been excellent, regardless of delay after shutdown; hot start is hands free, cold start with the choke out is a 2-second no-touch (pull choke, turn key) process at most.
I never paid close attention to the behavior of bowl level over time until I started having the flood issue, so I honestly don't know if that is just normal behavior with a Nikki after shutdown as fuel vapor pressure and residual heat moves through the vent system, or if it's indicative of a problem that I have improved but not eliminated. I don't have any other examples to compare with, and as far as I know no one else wit ha stockSA has ever tracked and documented the bowl levels over time after a shutdown.
Now that the car is fully together, I plan on doing a little testing with opening the vent system after shutdown & seeing if this has an effect. It's time consuming because the process of heat-cycling the car and then waiting for it to cool fully takes a couple of hours.
Main thing I would suggest is frequent oil changes whenever you are dealing with flooding problems; I think some of my quick wearout was due to not changin the oil frequently while I fought the issue, due to the very low number of miles I was driving. The vent system even when working perfectly stores fuel vapor in the crankcase; under flood conditions the excess fuel can end up diluting your oil.
05-19-12, 10:32 PM
#740
I agree about the oil dillution...I have been preventing flooding by removing the fuel pump relay before shut down and let the bowls empty...however I just discovered what appears to be the beginning stages of "the oil leak of death" after a 27 mile run to work today in the GLC...its not horrible by any means, no pooling and such, but already putting together the rebuild in my head...and it will give the opportunity to fix all those little things that have been botherin' me since the build of this car...gonna register the 85fb this week and probably finish the season with the GLC while getting the 81fb road worthy and then this winter tear down the GLC again...fit a 5speed, move my fuel pump, address my "scary brakes", and replace the u joints as well as upgrade the alt to internal reg and msd ignition direct fire ign upgrade. Already replaced my omp with a block off plate and started premixing, but its a bit of a pain since I like driving this car a lot which equals gassing up a lot, and premixing alot...lol. Wow this looks like one of Jeff20b's posts...
05-20-12, 09:25 PM
#743
Took the GLC back to work today and drove the snot out of it...not a drop, so I'm thinking my fears of o ring leak of death are unfounded, but I'm keeping my eye on it for sure...also did some stripes on the ole girl...vinyl is extremely difficult to work with...the car still photographs nicely, but the "keep back 10 feet" rule in person still applies...I like it though. lol
By cfamilyfix at 2012-05-20
I know this is the FB thread...sorry. As for what did i do to my FB...well I took the 85 out for a ride to fill the tank, and the 81 got looked at for the "going together phase" after having the oil pan, front suspension and steering items removed for replacement.
By cfamilyfix at 2012-05-20
I know this is the FB thread...sorry. As for what did i do to my FB...well I took the 85 out for a ride to fill the tank, and the 81 got looked at for the "going together phase" after having the oil pan, front suspension and steering items removed for replacement.
Last edited by cfamilyfix; 05-20-12 at 09:29 PM.
05-21-12, 09:53 AM
#747
its supposed to do that
I drove it for the first time running the megasquirt, laps around the block to clean up low rpm, low load areas.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=98jg-nzudy8
Isaac
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=98jg-nzudy8
Isaac
05-21-12, 03:59 PM
#748
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Full stock build with an RB powerpulse muffler, at idle she reads almost exactly 70 dBa @ 1 ft., idling at 800 rpm. For comparsion, a normal conversation at 3 ft runs around 60-65 dBa:
http://www.gcaudio.com/resources/howtos/loudness.html
She's a subtle one.
http://www.gcaudio.com/resources/howtos/loudness.html
She's a subtle one.
mine got flagged@105db, because there was a cloud... remove the cloud and its under the 103db limit @the track
05-21-12, 07:46 PM
#750
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
FB Turbo
Where should I start because my FB got almost everything brand new... A 13B Halfbridge port with a Comp Turbo GT35R Triple ball bearing, V-Mount Intercooler with a 3" pipe all the way around including an exhaust pipe, Water/Methanol injection, a set of Cabeau Seats, Auto Power 6 points Rollbar, Tokico Illumina Shocks, Energy suspension Polyurethene bushing and everything else, front and rear big brake turbo ll kit with drilled rotors, 5x114.3 bolt pattern, new H/D rear axle, GSL LSD rearend, Ground Control and RE Speed fully adjustable front and rear coilover type, Microtech with a dash unit, AEM Tru-Boost Control and wide band gauges, BBS RS Wheels 16x8.5 on 205/40 2.5 inch lips and 16x10 on 245/40 3.5 inch lips, front spoiler and a wrapped around rear spoiler. She is also getting a new paint job (still gonna be silver as a factory paint. It should be completed soon. All work done by Juni of JRX Rotary.