Mazda RX-7 EFINI TYPE

For the lower rad hose, if all else fails, just make a solid pipe with a coupler at each end.

Mazda RX-7 EFINI TYPE

For the lower rad hose, if all else fails, just make a solid pipe with a coupler at each end.

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

I'd love to do solid piping, but this angle is seriously harsh, and only about 2-3" of gap between the pump and the radiator.

I'm almost thinking I'll need to get the radiator pipe cut and re-welded on at a better angle.

Today: wiring. Almost finished tidying up the fusible link and factory relay relocation to under dash. Running 4ga back from battery to links, then 8ga from links over to megasquirt.

Tested my proposed ground circuit along the driver frame rail - 0 ohm loss from engine-to-chassis ground point and battery ground point. Now that's what I'm talking about!

Will have all main grounds including dedicated 8ga ECU circuit ground tied in at the same battery-to-chassis point. Should be solid.

Decided to run 4ga wire from alternator to starter (+), then 4ga from there back to battery (+).

Ordered in a 4 position distro/relay block, which will fuse and distribute in front of the radiator to: headlight relay harness (30amp), e-fans (30ish amp), fusible links & megasquirt (100+ amp) and JL stereo amplifier (60amp).

Need to figure out what to do for fans for the new, smaller radiator. I've found some decent 10" Summit fans for around $60 each, with an 1,100cfm rating (each), which should be more than enough with the high efficiency alu radiator. Now the question is - pusher or puller I'd say pusher - no brainier, however with the cold air intake and radiator overflow up there, it'd be a squeeze.

Tomorrow: get the rest of the power and ground terminals and a thing of dielectric grease to put on top, then plug in the battery and see if this **** works!

chiefmg

iTrader: (5)

Good luck getting dielectric grease. I went in a Radio Shack a few years ago and asked for some, I got blank stares. Seems all the true geeks are gone from RS and all that are left are battery pushers.

Jibaro 12A

iTrader: (8)

tried auto zone? I believe they carry it

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

I had the same experience at auto zone. they totally had it on the shelf, too, i found it by myself later. The only thing they knew about was the "bulb grease" and "spark plug grease" in the little packets near the checkout register.

These are gimmicks, low-temp **** that should never be put on electrical connections. Spark plug grease not quite as much as bulb grease tho

I discovered this the hard way. And on that note - you can clean out terminals that you have botched with the wrong kind of grease using a q-tip and electrical parts cleaner.

Anyways, O'Reilley's has it, so does auto-zone. Its a little spray can with a plastic nozzle dangling on the side. Don't get fooled by the ignoramus at the front who doesnt know the diff - bulb grease is a low temp rating, dielectric grease is for putting on top and sealing high-current, high temp stuff.

Frankenrex

iTrader: (1)

I usually try to get the hold down stud centered in the adjustment slot on the dizzy, but it doesn't matter, as long as you have enough adjustment range in the slot to get the timing right.

Jibaro 12A

iTrader: (8)

Thanks! I'll give it a shot tonight!

Ms. DIY

I took off the 4SALE sign and let the newspaper ads expire. With a grace of 1/2 rent for the next 3 months (the landlady is afraid of house empty in winter freeze) I can hold out a little longer while on my job search. I'm calling her by her proper name-Smooth not "The Mazda" and put her key back on my keyring.

JedisonsDad

Congrats! Hope things pick up again, and you don't have to fall back on selling it as your only option.

dougingraham

We had one of those rare days in January where the temps got nice enough to work outside (I saw 61.) In my case I chose to do my front brake pads on my GSL-EV. I had replaced the rear pads last summer because they were howling but I didn't get the front ones done. So today I rectified that. Hawk HPS pads seem to be really good. When I had the right front wheel off I checked the bearings by wiggling and found a little play. I adjusted the bearing load and resolved that. The other side was ok.

I added tie rod ends to the list of stuff needing attention. The boots are split and looking inside I can see rust. They are still tight but that is not going to last. Probably the others are in a similar state as well so change it all!

Hope everyone gets a taste of the warm weather I saw today as it makes its way across the country.

JedisonsDad

With a pretty significant tax refund on the way, I've been given the go-ahead for wheels and tires. I've used various tire calculators and done some measuring with the good old measuring tape.

Any idea how 15x8 +25 offset with 225/45/15, all on a 1"adapter would fit? Even better, any one have pics? It's quite a bit of money I'm dropping, so want to make sure before I pull the trigger.

Stock 85 GS, by the way.

pinoyremix

Yesterday, took her out for a drive, replaced new front end links with energy suspension one, replaced gslse fuel filter. We were going to install rear end links but just and removed the rear sway bar (best improvement).

Looking at upgrading steering components next, I have a moog idler arm, for the tie rods is there only an inner and outer or one for each side?

woodmv

iTrader: (8)

There is an inner and outer on both sides, so you'll need two of each.

lwrobins

I received my Black Dragon catalog in the mail, Really neat source for allot of Trim, interior, susp,
etc.. That is hard to find.. Only bad thing is all the cool stuff for early Zs. Makes me want a 240...
Sunny day here, took the car out for a drive with the windows down... FUN, reminded me why I keep this car...

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

Drove it to the carwash. Lots of post snow business. Had 3 people walk up smiling with their compliments as I was toweling it.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Bought some fresh oil. Need to get some plugs and a filter - - smog-test prep time again.

Sgt.Stinkfist

iTrader: (6)

Just received a stack of parts yesterday. Stainless header, box full of goodies from Mazda Motorsports, and another box full of my equal length 4 link suspension project (heims, threaded rods, and wedge adjusters/weight jacks)

:-D

Fungus Mungus

iTrader: (9)

Sarge, very interested in your equal length quad link project. Are you documenting it on another thread?

fm

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

my old SA just passed again

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

I just got all moog parts for the tie rods (2 inner and 2 outer) tie rod adjusters (2),
idler arm and new adjustable LCAs from RB. The moog parts are all made so well and
you can grease em. Can't wait to get em on the car.

woodmv

iTrader: (8)

DDDAAAANNNNNGGGGGGG... Superjealous! Take pics when you get it all installed. I'd like to see what all new components installed together look like. I need some inspiration ( and cash )...

Sgt.Stinkfist

iTrader: (6)

I will try and document the process with many pics in the spring. With an unheated shop and average temps here being -10° w/o windchill , this part of the year is the time for parts collection and work will have to wait til its atleast 40° I will be mostly mimicing the old mazda factory race cars and move the upper links inboard (inside the storage bin areas). The 4-link will be made from 1/2" eyelet w/ 3/4" threaded bodies heims (each rated at 32000lbs of force)

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

Sweet... I didn't know somebody made adjustable control arms. I guess all that dremeling wasn't nessary on my car


But damn are those things expensive

PK_12A

iTrader: (3)

Unfortunately not much. I am in a cold weather holding pattern and have started a new job which, also means more available funds for parts, I need new tires for the back bad and at least shocks and a proper alignment. Hopefully the weather warms up soon so I can take the time to get her on the road.