ioTus

iTrader: (5)

Gorgeous.

Do you have gsl-se suspension then? +42 offset on a 7" wide wheel?

PK_12A

iTrader: (3)

Decided to take the left front fender off the see about putting in hood-pins and I couldn't find a good way to set them up.

Sent using RX7Club for Android.

MarkCrawford

Removed the air pump and heat shield in preparation for installing my new RB exhaust manifold, pre-silencer and muffler - only to discover that I already had an RB exhaust manifold. Embarrassment Factor - 100%

Will go ahead and install the new system as whoever put the old system on did a terrible job in sealing all of the connections. Will most likely put the old header on eBay as it still looks solid. Having second thoughts and wished I had gone for the street ported system. Oh well.

8TRX7

Thanks for the compliments guys.

No, its the stock SA suspension..but I read up on the site and almost everyone is about as close to the spring as I am. They have had no issues, so hopefully I don't expect none.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Received a set of four Energy urethane tie rod end boots that I'd ordered about a week ago, after I accidentally cut one boot while replacing my lower control arm. I'm now debating replacing all four boots: the Energy units are a bit stiffer than standard rubber boots, and although my rod ends are all in good shape, I find myself wondering if a stiffer boot might provide a bit more assertive recentering of the joint.

Upside new stuff, downside more work replacing things that aren't actually bad. Dilemma.

I also wish I could find a screw-operated puller small enough for our tie rod ends. All the commonly-available ones are too large, and using a pickle fork pretty much always screws up the boot. & it's hard on the joints.

Anyone seen a good source?

dougingraham

I think the ECU cares about rpm, not overall speed. Speed would almost have to come from the instrument cluster because it comes from the transmission as a mechanical signal. That must be turned into a pulse train and sent to the cruise control box which is the only other thing that needs it. Was the power steering compensated by speed? I've never seen an SA or FB with power steering.

dougingraham

Ok, Ive got a friend visiting and I was able to rope him into helping me out with getting the GSL-EV back together. Finished up excess wiring removal part 1. Got the harness taped back together and back in place. Installed the front battery box and motor controller. Installed the batteries in the front. This give me 170 volts at 1000 amps for 10-15 seconds which is up to 170000 watts (228 HP). I will never see this at the wheels. After all that made sure everything worked on a couple of 12V batteries I have laying around and then hooked it up to the big pack. Everything seemed to be working so no more excuses and took it for a 5 mile drive in the dark. I have sort of ceased to notice how quiet it is but my friend who rode shotgun carrying a fire extinguisher said, "This is just not right. You can hear the tires squeak when you turn the wheel." The fire extinguisher was not needed and on city streets posted 45 I popped up to 50 once. On the drive to work this morning with the same posting I might have accidentally hit 60. The additional voltage has really widened the torque band. I don't think I will have any problems hitting 100mph now. Just not sure where I can test this.

Here are some photos of the wiring harness stuff. (Don't try this at home kids!)

First photo is of what is left of the part number of the original harness. This was found pretty much on the center of the harness where it was attached in front of the radiator.

Second photo is of the motor bay looking forward. You can see all the loose wires. Its a mess.

Third photo is of some fat Old Guy With a Twelve A (the 12a is sitting on the floor of the garage needing a good home.) I had no idea I was getting so thin on top. At least it isn't all grey yet. I was dressing the harness into place and a friend took this. You can just see the red GSL-SE behind me with the hood open. I was comparing connectors between the cars to make sure I didnt cut something I wanted to keep.

Fourth photo shows new harness in the right front corner.

Last photo shows the left front corner.

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

So i went back and RTF(s)M (read the factory service manual) and found it stating that it sends the road speed to a specific power steering computer, under the driver's dash.

The system is a speed-dependant power assist, and is heavenly to drive! I've had all three setups in an fb - normal (nice), power steering minus the pump (ugh!) and properly dialed in power-assist steering. The power assist is by FAR the most fun for me to drive! I would have liked to try the re-speed rack and pinion, before he fell of the face of the planet, but my understanding is you lose your turning radius.

The power assist tapers off from 35-55mph. I'm blown away at how balanced it is. Whatever engineering team built this system has my approval!




Doug - CONGRATS man that is awesome news! So glad its running, and seems to be running well! Have you moved all the batteries to the rear? That bay is looking beastly. Honestly I think it would go down QUITE well at a show like 7-stock. Especially when you whop some *** off the line

And dood don't worry. I'm 29 and have significantly thinner top-side than you do.

8TRX7

@DivinDriver
I haven't seen any smaller than the size that is on the link I posted below. Hope it helps you out.

OTC 7315A Universal Tie Rod End Remover

Adam12A

Worked on the paint some more today and hooked up the msd and got it fired up. It's been a good day. Sorry bout the terrible quality photos

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

That looks to be a much more appropriate tool than the "Tron"-style pullers I've been able to find;



the gaps in the arms on the smallest ones are too wide for the small joints in a first-gen, and will slip off.

Will have to track one of these down.

Thanks!

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

TRON

Today: Finally got my spare key fob cut - and it works! sweet. a little sticky, you have to pull it out just a hair, but hey it works.

Got my eBay special aluminum radiator in the mail today. bunch of slightly bent fins, my perfectionist side cringed a little, then calmed myself considering i paid $140 shipped, I can bend them back out, and i'll probably end up bending a bunch more installing it anyways.

it's LIGHT. and SHINEY

My suby buddy came over and i showed him the haltech install for the first time. Fired her up, chatted about EFI for a bit (he's got a rally car he's building and we're going to do a megasquirt on an EG33 flat 6 out of an SVX), and mentioned that I'm reading this FANTASTIC book about EFI setups, recommended to me by highnitro here on the forums:



One of the things they mention in the book is how essential it is to ground ALL sensors that the ECU reads to the exact same ground as the ECU, as each ground loop has its own distinct line noise, and all sensors / ecu should be synced on the same ground circuit (electricity actually flows from ground to positive, not other way around, so that makes perfect sense). He has been having problems with his O2 sensor readings, and we realized that very well could be why - he has no clue where he grounded it to.

Then i realized that could be what's causing my standalone 6port / VDI system rpm signal to be so erratic - the RPM switches are grounded to a nearby chassis bolt, whereas the ECU is grounded through the OEM harness (as well as the O2), and the rpm signal there is dead-spot on. I'm going to pull the ground line back from the RPM switches to the igniter or ECU ground and see if that cleans up the signal.

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

Forget pullers, and especially the forks. Just take a weighted hammer and give the tie rod a nice tap and they'll pop right out. If you only have a metal sledge, just use wood. I recently used this method to separate all tie rods and the ball joints. When done correctly, this method is substantially faster, easier, and doesn't damage the tie rods.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Thats the one I have. Works better than the simple C types.

MarkCrawford

Put the new brake and clutch pedal rubber on and took her for a little spin before work today. Damned seat belt buzzer is at it again - constant on even when belt buckled. Probably a ground issue somewhere, but I think I just might cut the damn buzzer off. She gets an oil change and new RB exhaust system today.

Fungus Mungus

iTrader: (9)

I didn't have much luck with this method and felt like I needed to get a good wind-up. I didn't want to mess anything up so I ended up using a pickle-fork on mine, but I was replacing the boots anyway. I tried the blow method with the pitman arm and that didn't work as you really need to get a good wind-up to knock that loose. Something I couldn't do without getting the car up on a lift.

fm

dougingraham

Thanks! I am really glad to have it running again. The batteries are a split pack so as to maintain the cars balance. I have 33 cells (231lbs) in the back under the deck and 18 cells (126 lbs) under the hood. With the 20lb battery charger hanging where the muffler used to be the weight on the rear wheels is exactly 600 lbs each without anyone in the car. The front is now slightly heavy on the right and just under 600 lbs. There isn't much else to go in the car, Vacuum pump for power assist of the brakes is probably the biggie and it is perhaps 10lbs. The handling feels normal. Really easy to drive. It is easy to tell the LSD is working because when you are on the edge the tire chirp alternates from side to side. I never noticed that before.

The photo is what it looks like now under the hood.

I was under the impression that Sevenstock was really intended for Wankel powered cars. But I happen to still have one of those and it is more fun to drive it to CA than the EV would be to tow or trailer.

Ms. DIY

Sorry you've embarrassed yourself, and glad to hear that the RB headder fits under the heat shield. I have realized that my small town exhaust dude gave me the most economical solution to my HORRIBLE exhaust leak, like I asked. I still have the heat exchange unit. I salvaged the heat shield from his cast off area... He was surprised.

Funny, I ordered the wrong part from O'Reilly's (manifold gasket) and got just what I needed to mount to the heat exchanger. When I've order gaskets correctly they tend to get the wrong thing!

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

OTC7315A ordered off Amazon Prime for $35.16, with free shipping. I'll have it by Friday. Thanks for the heads-up!

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

I think there's a typo on that warning sticker - pretty sure it should read:

"WARNING: Electrical AWESOMENESS"

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i think the EV car is closer to a rotary than a v8, i'm sure it would be welcome at sevenstock

dougingraham

This gives me a lot to think about. So what I did to my FB's today (so far) was think about taking them to a gathering.

13x

I agree with j9fd3s

bring it down!!! .... gawd at least it's not a damn V8 swap ... I am sure there would be a lot of ppl curious as to what you did ... it's not a wankel but still a rotary of sorts lol

NCross

iTrader: (18)

If the government ever outlaws gasoline engines below a certain efficiency like they were ranting about a couple years ago (yeah right...) you could be a hero to save our cars!

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

Personally, I'd love to see your car. I won't be at 7 Stock, but I am sure others think similarly. This is a great, and unique swap.