I have killed my backfire! It WAS all in the timing. The Auto Beast is SOOO unique. You can see the PO's attempts at timing were many. The "sweet spot" I found about midrange was in idle... BUT the timing has to be done in drive. This is how extreme it looks


Those wheels do look sweet... but I like the 2 tone set you sold better...

 

Exactly! Once I realize I need something I have to go in the house and order the part. Sucks, but I love the rotary so much it doesn't bother me too much

Yeah, fuel lines are no fun. I hope you get it figured out and running right!

Glad you found the spot, timing is no fun. It looks extreme but if it works it works!

What I got done:

Old rubber bushings in the control arms


Rubber bushings being burned out


Watts Links bushings replaced (didn't get a shot of the rear control arms - woops )


Driver's side shot of Blue shock and poly bushings


Pass side shot


Final shot of new rear end installed




So I now have a completely new rear end (to me at least)!

Now that all bushings and new shocks are installed I can get a completely accurate measurement on the driveshaft.

 

Any special tools to install these? Are these "energy suspension" bushings?

 

The 6 port is out and the 4 port is in.

 

Bought a metal root in decent condition and with the correct colors for the GSL-SE (sunrise red/grey) and the seller threw in the lift/latch mechanism. The one on the car slipped so it wouldn't stay up or down and one of the corner hold downs was broken. So the new one went in the car and works prefectly. I removed the headliner from the used roof panel so I could inspect for rust on the inside and make it easier to clean up. The headliner cleaned up pretty well, it had a couple of stains which came out with upholstery cleaner. On closer inspection of the roof panel there are a couple of minor dents and several spots where the paint cracked and it has started to bubble the paint. It is minor so I think I will try to fix this panel and then paint it. Probably it would have been too much to ask for a perfect panel.

 

@ J9/Fungus/iotus

The aux ports are permanently open, no goin back. The irons have machined aluminum ramps epoxied right into the aux port and I also fully removed the actuator system, epoxied the holes shut and blended/smoothed the runners.

I know power isn't everything for autox, but a useable powerband is what i feel I need. I don't want any more actualpower, just a nice bump in lower end torque. Or as said before, I could go for a super short rear end gear ratio, but once again, I have to travel relatively long distances to race.

Well see how this pans out, its a learning curve and I honestly can't leave well enough alone and don't really have the money to build another engine. Forever tinkering is me :-)

 

Yesterday I found my brake calipers in the classifieds while I was at work. Today I had to return to work at 0800 (after getting off at 0030) so no morning car work..but I was able to research a few things about my build so it was a pretty good day. Now I'm just waiting for the outside temps to get below 100 so that I can pay for my calipers and clean the garage a bit before I continue cleaning the car and prepping it for mods...hopefully I can get a fair amount done this weekend, but I won't be able to do any heavy stuff like grinding until the heat backs off a bit (have to work at night since its so hot during the day)

 

Tools: 13/16" wrench and socket, 17mm wrench and socket, bench vice to help with install and that's about it.

Yes, this was the Energy Suspension Watts Linkage kit and the Rear Control kit as well. Really like it!

 

mada a mini-me of mine

 

WAAAAT that is so cool.

Full gallery of pics w/ both cars k plz thx!

 

Finally done did it




old SE alt before



FD alt after



seems to be delivering a solid 12.2 or more volts regardless of load



atkins serpentine pulleys with 31.5" belt

 

Nice ioTus! Hoping my engine bay looks half that good one day!

This evening I hadn't intended on doing anything. Went out to the garage to grab the cat temp sensor that I'd pulled off the night before. Need it for tomorrow so I can size a grommet to block off the hole under the seat left by the removal of the sensor. Got that and ended up installing my new OMP lines on the SE/S4 hybrid.

fm

 

Thanks iotus, but that pretty much was the full gallery, I took those two pics off my phone this afternoon in my garage. Nice work with your alt' too. What amperage is that? Was it a straight bolt up?

 

Took them both for a drive yesterday. Really happy with the SE. I got the carb tuned pretty well for a rookie. Nice power and the stumble is just about completely gone.

Put the Auto Bahns in the back of the GS, stopped by Discount tire since they are having a nice sale, and ordered some new tires. They come in on Wed.

Also stopped by a muffler shop to look at the hole in the muffler. I have a powerpulse I picked up off ebay to swap with it, but once it was on the lift they wanted nothing to do with it
since there's no cat. He did recommend a place in Seattle that may be willing to do the welding without worrying about the cat.

 

Meh thats BS. Unless they're having to take stuff off or put something new on, they should be able to service a system. Def find a different shop. Want me to ask around?

 

Cheers on the alt! I'm very pleased, I feel like its finally getting to a place I'm happy with.

The FD alt is 100amps

It's a straight bolt up... but not really.

This had an SE alt before, you re-use the water pump mounting bolt. The SE used a nut on the back which the FD alt has built in. The adjuster arm will need new bolt and nut as the SE alt has a threaded ear and the FD doesn't.

You need a pulley and spacer, either single or dual sheave v-belt (atkins has both, plus spacer) as the FD has 5-rib serpentine, or I went with the 6-rib aftermarket kit from Atkins, as it comes with the pulley spacer and you can mix-n-match water pump, main drive, and alternators based on your application.

Apart from that wiring is easy. Take the FD alternator dongle plug, cut the small connector off. Top, yellow wire goes to the main battery post. Lower, white wire goes into the factory alternator plug - the vertical connector opposite the clip. The horizontal connector by the clip on factory plug is left blank.

My harness


Where to plug it in (photo ala Siraniko)




Info for the swap:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-arch...2/#post3951773

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...0/#post7326251



It took a LOT of searching for the quick easy answer but those two posts sum it all up nice and easy. Swap is the same for S5 and S6 alts. S4 alts ARE a direct bolt on, plug and all. The reason for the re-wiring on the FD alt is that the FD alt is always looking for an input-to-output voltage, even when the car is off. The S3/S4 alt only does this when the ignition is on. As such, plugging the S3 harness directly into the S5/S6 harness will make the alternator see a 12v input 0v output and try to charge the battery - slow drains the battery after a day or two.

 

I took her on a rescue mission. 30 mi. each way... to leave keys with mechanic for "Reliable Vehicle's" roadside stall yesterday. The van started!

Smooth was a champ. My husband HAD to admit I got her to exceed his expectations... and I'm not done yet.

 

I like the wheels on the mini! are those 4 lug?

TOO f'n cute! REALLY!

 

Meeting up with Jeff20B next weekend and he's going to hook me up. Thanks though!

 

so true!

 

Yeah thanks! I was just thinking how it looks tuff, and cute at the same time haha. Nah there alloy wheels I reckon they look a bit like longchamps if you squint. Actually ordered a set of deep dish 4 lugs weeks ago they still haven't arrived, but they should look the part a bit better.

 

^ hang on... I was thinking four spoke, hehe. nah, they are one lug, very hi-tech, lol.

 

Made a microme of the Goose a while back.


And I conducted a quick experiment today on the X wheels slated for use on the Groadster 7...

I think it looks ok. Gotta hit it with the 600 grit to get it ready for polish so that should clear up the over spray, but I'm pleased.

 

It's true for you too? Cool!

 

To go the extra mile, throw some paint in the insets around the Mazda logo on the spoke. Did that with mine and then polished and it looked superb.
Best pic I have of it - long before I had a digital camera. Guess I should find the original photos and rescan them, not that the photos are all that great, either. I think only the rear wheel had been painted at this point, though all four were polished.
Car now has GSL-SE suspension, so the Plus wheels are on a parts car, but I still have them!