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Weber carb conversion kit

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Old Sep 30, 2025 | 02:34 PM
  #1  
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From: Austria
Weber carb conversion kit

I'm having trouble with my nikki carb and dont want to bother with rebuilding it, since i wanted to get a weber down the line anyways, i'm thinking about just getting a weber. I dont have much time at the moment so i was hoping i could get something like a "plug and play" weber kit.
So this is what i found so far:
https://www.atkinsrotary.com/79-85-12a- ... 01k48.html
Is this what i'm looking for? Yes i know there is another but that costs about 3 times as much.
Do i need to buy anything else other than the kit? Or is it really just bolt on, tune the carb, and ready to go?
Or are there any other weber kits for about the price, or up to 2k if spares me trouble?
All help or suggestions are apreciated!
84 rx7, 12a 100% stock
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Old Sep 30, 2025 | 02:52 PM
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The side draft is great except it sits right over the headers and heat protection will need to be done to prevent issues with the carb. The best setup is the RacingBeat downdraft Weber 48 with the intake. Its about $400.00 more for the setup but much better and prejetted close to whats needed for a stock port 12A. Given you are in Austria, shipping and tariffs will be your biggest issues.
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Old Sep 30, 2025 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by t_g_farrell
The side draft is great except it sits right over the headers and heat protection will need to be done to prevent issues with the carb. The best setup is the RacingBeat downdraft Weber 48 with the intake. Its about $400.00 more for the setup but much better and prejetted close to whats needed for a stock port 12A. Given you are in Austria, shipping and tariffs will be your biggest issues.
Yea i have bad experience with RacingBeat, orderd a 150€ part for my miata and ended up with a unpleasend surprise of over 200 extra for tarrifs. Quality is great, tho. Maybe it is worth it, even with high shipping costs. Is it plug and play, or do i have to buy some extra parts? If it is, maybe it's worth the extra price. I cant really find anything eu based anyways, so maybe i'll go with that
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Old Oct 1, 2025 | 03:36 AM
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Tarifs are not the fault of Racing Beat, it is the fault of our own local customs.
Seems you are hit pretty bad, usually in France I pay 20€ fees + 20% of the value of the good (incl. transport costs, and they count 1€=1$, bastards).
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Old Oct 1, 2025 | 09:45 AM
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From: Austria
Originally Posted by Mivroum
Tarifs are not the fault of Racing Beat, it is the fault of our own local customs.
Seems you are hit pretty bad, usually in France I pay 20€ fees + 20% of the value of the good (incl. transport costs, and they count 1€=1$, bastards).
Yea i know, i'm not blaming RacingBeat
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Old Oct 1, 2025 | 10:03 AM
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I wouldn't buy the DCOE side draft personally, but that's up to you. I think the reason you don't see many kits for IDA conversion is that it's not difficult - there are a couple of traps though:

Throttle cable mounting - not certain what side drive your car is but Mazdatrix has cable options for LHD, I'm sure EFI hardware and other Australian companies have put together a good LHD kit.

Bell crank orientation - again this tends to be an RHD v LHD thing - there are many vendors that can support this.

Fuel supply - whether you go returnless or return you'll need something. Pick your poison.
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Old Oct 4, 2025 | 01:57 PM
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you may consider this:

https://www.pacperformance.com.au/ro...ackage-12a-13b
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Old Oct 5, 2025 | 12:42 PM
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IIRC the new IDA manifolds come from Australia.
The carbs come from Italy or maybe Spain.

It doesn't make sense to me to ship various parts all around the world before you even buy them.

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Old Nov 5, 2025 | 08:11 PM
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Man, I love those short side-draft webers. I always wanted to build an FB that showed off the "keg" shape of the engine as much as possible. Take that Weber, an alt relocation kit, an electric water pump, and anything else I can think of that leaves the whole top of the engine bare.

But yeah, if you're going for the side-draft on the short manifold (as opposed to the ones that wrap around the top of the engine) make sure you ceramic coat and wrap your headers, and put a heat shield between them and the carb. You want as much heat separation between the two as you can get. Personally I'd also carry a fire extinguisher - not that you're likely to need it but with a fuel line hooked up to the carb sitting right above the hottest part of the exhaust all it takes is one leak and you're in bad shape. But this comes from a bad experience I had back when my car was stock and a mechanic forgot to hook up the air pump hose - he left it laying on the exhaust manifold and I had to pull into a random woman's driveway and put out the fire with a salad bowl full of water. That was scary.

And yet, if I had a second FB it would definitely have that carb setup, I love the look of it.

Edit: almost forgot - if you go for an aftermarket carb you'd be well served to upgrade your fuel pump and add a regulator and gauge. The stock pump isn't great, and while it gives adequate pressure and flow for the stock carb, lots of aftermarket ones prefer a different pressure and higher flow rate.

Last edited by vipernicus42; Nov 5, 2025 at 08:14 PM.
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Old Jan 20, 2026 | 02:36 PM
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Loved my Lake Cities manifold so much I bought it a second time. Lake Cities is the short side draft that sits over the header. You will enjoy the throttle response and noise, for sure. It is a peaky setup and I would recommend a ported motor or at least a low mile rebuild stock port. Ran like a raped ape. My setup was with an OER carb which is like a racing Weber. This manifold puts the carb too far away to reuse the stock throttle cable so you will need to make one. I used brake cabling from a bicycle store. You have to solder a new end on it, if you use the stock end it will work but it will break off eventually and you will end up on the side of the road turning the idle speed screw up to 4000rpm to get home. Don't ask.

The wrap around side draft is also nice, and I would get that for a street car over the LC manifold. More down low power than the LC . Felt better around town. Didn't feel like it heat soaked much.

Both were used with a heat shield that bolted to the intake flange bolts. You can make your own for cheap. You just want something in between the header and the intake, one you go over 35mph the engine bay is a tornado.
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