When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Things underneath - springs, shocks, brakes, bushings, etc. What all do I need?
I'm sure this has been asked a billion times; and if there is a place where the information is posted in a format that is easy to format, I thank you in advance for pointing me in the right direction.
I have a 1985 RX-7, 12a, base model. Around 88k original miles. I am the 3rd owner. Engine seems strong; transmission seems smooth (both statements based on reliable Mk. I sitting in the driver's seat measurements).
I definitely need to address the suspension. Everything is original. Thinking that if I am going to go through the trouble (and cost) of starting this, I figure I should do everything related at the same time (brakes, shocks, springs, etc.). Since this is all related to the underpinnings of the car, and not the rotary engine itself, I plan to have someone I know do the work (assuming he has the bandwidth to take this on). Maybe this is the wrong place to ask this - if so, please accept my apologies. (I did replace the rear wheel bearings a few years ago, but I feel like I probably should redo these with a more reliable brand that whatever I used)
So, here's my list of what I think I need to order - what all have I missed?
Front Wheel Bearings
84-85 Rx7 Front Wheel Bearing Kit (ARE78) (x2) atkins
79-85 Rx7 Inner Tie Rod (8531-32-240A) (x2) atkins
79-85 Rx7 Outer Tie Rod End (8021-32-280) (x2) atkins
79-91 Rx7 Tie Rod End Dust Boot (8021-32-279) (x2) atkins
Brakes
Front Rotors
Front Pads
Front Calipers
Brake Lines?
Rear Drums
Rear Shoes
Brake Lines?
Springs - Racing Beat Spring Set (Front/Rear) $235
(or should I order the Racing Beat $uspension package for $571, which includes front & rear sway bars?)
Racing Beat End Link Set (pair) $30
Rear Shocks - KYB GR-2
Front Strut - KYB GR-2 Strut Cartridge
81-85 Rx7 Front Strut Bump Stop (FA01-34-015) (x2) atkins
79-85 Rx7 Front Strut Bump Stop (8871-34-111A) - NLA
Idler Arm - MOOG K9369
Tie Rods Inner
Tie Rods Outer
Front / Rear Suspension End Link Set (x2)- Energy Suspension 9.8123G atkins
79-85 Rx7 Front End Link Bushing Washer (0223-28-776) (x8) atkins $4.50
79-85 Rx7 Rear End Link Bushing Washer (0710-28-776) (x?) atkins $4.25
couple things, you might want to have someone look at the suspension before you just replace all of it, its only got 88k....
second, the tie rods come with boots, so you don't need to order boots
the rear wheel bearing spacer can be reused, its not pressed on, its just a slip fit.
the 8871 bump stop is the 79-80 part, so you don't need it.
possible you might rebuild your calipers, finding replacements will be impossible.
i'd also measure the rear drums, they really don't wear, or even do much, so they probably don't need to be replaced, and if they did the new one is not likely to be better....
If you are going for new brake flex lines, go stainless.
Also, lots of warnings here about just WHICH rear suspension links bushings (and I recall, those on the Watts linkage too) you can/should replace. Get it wrong and noisy, binding suspension results. sorry, I do not recall which, and others can chime in, but this can be a real downer on a street-driven car. On my 110K mi 80 GS (original suspension bits, ex shocks) I am replacing all 4 control arms with new ones. Best way to restore showroom ride, and you will only have to do this once. Avoids all the drama of replacing the "correct" bushings and the ag in removing then old bushing material from old arms.
Don't put poly bushings in the rear end links. The rear link bushings need to be soft and pliant for the rear suspension to work properly (especially the short upper links). In the front you'll get the benefits you expect, but in the rear it will exaggerate the bad traits of the suspension.
In the rear, only use poly bushings in the swaybar links and the watts linkage. Don't do them in the rear arms at all. Poly everthing up front. Also, I replace rear brake shoes on an annual basis. A couple of hard rides through the mountains over a couple of weekends can eat em up fast. Also adjust them every few months, its makes your braking feel much better.
couple things, you might want to have someone look at the suspension before you just replace all of it, its only got 88k....
second, the tie rods come with boots, so you don't need to order boots
the rear wheel bearing spacer can be reused, its not pressed on, its just a slip fit.
the 8871 bump stop is the 79-80 part, so you don't need it.
possible you might rebuild your calipers, finding replacements will be impossible.
i'd also measure the rear drums, they really don't wear, or even do much, so they probably don't need to be replaced, and if they did the new one is not likely to be better....
Appreciate the notes about what isn't needed. My experience has been that pretty much anything isn't made like it used to be ...
Don't put poly bushings in the rear end links. The rear link bushings need to be soft and pliant for the rear suspension to work properly (especially the short upper links). In the front you'll get the benefits you expect, but in the rear it will exaggerate the bad traits of the suspension.
Originally Posted by t_g_farrell
In the rear, only use poly bushings in the swaybar links and the watts linkage. Don't do them in the rear arms at all. Poly everthing up front. Also, I replace rear brake shoes on an annual basis. A couple of hard rides through the mountains over a couple of weekends can eat em up fast. Also adjust them every few months, its makes your braking feel much better.
So in both your cases, you guys are using non-poly bushings in the rear? This is a street car only, no track plans. It sounds like poly in the rear is significant in terms of unpleasantness....
So in both your cases, you guys are using non-poly bushings in the rear? This is a street car only, no track plans. It sounds like poly in the rear is significant in terms of unpleasantness....
Poly on the rear axle locating links is bad. Will cause unwanted binding at the worse times. Poly on the sway bar links and watts link are fine. Will dramatically improve the feel of the rear end.
Appreciate the notes about what isn't needed. My experience has been that pretty much anything isn't made like it used to be ...
if you're buying genuine Mazda parts those are the same. if you're buying aftermarket you are on your own.
Basically all of the big US brands don't make anything anymore, and they just put the cheap crap in their box and call it good
you need to be really careful with Atkins too, they use the factory part number and price, but don't always send the factory part.
i really advocate looking at the car and only replacing the stuff that is bad, the 40 year old used genuine part is actually better than the new crappy copy....
I agree with the others about Polymer Bushings up front with the exception of the Lower Control Arm bushings, as these are the inboard vibration isolators, and it'll be much quieter if you leave the Lower Control Arms with stock rubber bushings. Sway bars, end links, radius arms - yeah, go fully poly bushings to locate the suspension and it tightens up the car substantially as far as steering feel. At the rear, I went with factory OEM trailing links (Upper and Lower) and Watts Links, because the rear benefits from flexibility and is closer to your ears when driving, so rubber bushings help to keep a street car quiet.
When you go to install all of these arms, you have to be VERY PRECISE that the vehicle weight is on the axles before you tighten everything down. If they're pre-loaded with tension and then you lower the car, those bushings will already be under significant torque and will tear themselves out quickly, and they're not cheap to replace (~$600 for 4x Trailing Links and 2x Watts and Watts Pivot). Take the time to jack up the axles and get the body off of jack stands (*SAFELY), and they'll last over a hundred thousand miles.
The next biggest thing to making the car sound quiet internally is to check and replace any torn boots around the shifter tower. There's the rubberized one that you see from inside, a small donut shaped one around the shift lever that fits over a bigger oval-shaped one that's commonly cut apart when lazy people drop the trans, and below that a smaller rubber cap that covers the trans shifter mechanism. Tears in these boots allow road noise to enter the car and will make it sound rattle-trap inside. For a hundred bucks or so, it's a huge improvement and almost as good as full DynaMat interior, which adds a lot of weight (~40lbs). I did both and my car is quiet as a churchmouse inside until you get on it.
Oh, yeah - see if you can find a Moog Idler Arm for the front steering. Its far better than stock and a lifetime part - if you can find one...
Also be warned that Atkins lists factory part numbers on their items for reference only. The item you get may not be factory. For factory items, I always go to the dealer.
Also be warned that Atkins lists factory part numbers on their items for reference only. The item you get may not be factory. For factory items, I always go to the dealer.
you can use the OE part numbers for reference, but it should refer you to the aftermarket part. or you can use the factory number with an AM at the end or something. but when they have an OE number, and picture and then send you something else, that is misleading at best, possibly not legal at worst.
Also be warned that Atkins lists factory part numbers on their items for reference only. The item you get may not be factory. For factory items, I always go to the dealer.
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
you can use the OE part numbers for reference, but it should refer you to the aftermarket part. or you can use the factory number with an AM at the end or something. but when they have an OE number, and picture and then send you something else, that is misleading at best, possibly not legal at worst.
That is a shame. It's been a long time since I purchased from them. I hate to hear this.
back to the topic at hand.
Really appreciate everyone's input. From a budgeting perspective, would it be bad to break this project into front and back? Like tackle all the front upgrades / repairs first, and then the rear? I guess that's probably not the way to go, especially given that I was thinking of replacing springs. Thoughts?
While I continue to love Mazdatrix for after-market stuff, Balise Mazda (aka https://www.mazdabestpartsonline.com) has GREAT prices on OE.
I have bought a bunch of stuff for my SA recently there and their prices are consistently 20-25% of List. You will need the Mazda part number of what you want to navigate to your part tho. But this is suggested no matter who you deal with, to be sure you get what you need.
Fox.ca I believe offers downloadable Parts Books with PNs
More questions - Are the stock structs and shocks actually available from Mazda? It looks like parts FA24-28-700 (rear shock) and FA24-49-790 (front strut) may actually be available? How do these compare to say KYB? My car has the original parts ... so I realize anything is going to seem like an improvement in this area.
If Mazda even still offers these, they would be $$$ and prob less effective than KYBs...which can be had very inexpensively on ebay.
Am a big fan of original parts, but not on these...
I bought OE shocks and struts through MazdaTrix. I think they're Tokico blacks. One of them was/is leaking oil, so I never installed them. Still have them in the boxes.
I think GSL-SE told me they haven't been made in a long long time, and must have been on a shelf for the past 20 something years.
Edit- I was half right. They are sold as Mazda OE from MazdaTrix. The rear is Tokico...
More questions - Are the stock structs and shocks actually available from Mazda? It looks like parts FA24-28-700 (rear shock) and FA24-49-790 (front strut) may actually be available? How do these compare to say KYB? My car has the original parts ... so I realize anything is going to seem like an improvement in this area.
funny, Mazda has plenty of both. the rears, like Mr Wedge says are KYB's. not sure about the fronts, i can't say i've ever ordered one.
price is ok, list on the rears are $115, fronts $138, most places are 20% off of that, at least.
On the SAs the front struts were oil filled and could be disassembled and refreshed and refilled with oil. I wish I had kept those internal parts now. It would be fun to experiment with the oil weight to see how they would work.
07-19-20, 11:45 AM
Things underneath - springs, shocks, brakes, bushings, etc. What all do I need?
