Show us yer knobs!
03-31-11, 10:04 AM
#101
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Location: MN
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You are a funny guy. With a shifter as nice as the RX-8's though, I would look at it just for fun. 
04-01-11, 04:02 AM
#102
MUCH heavier than the SA **** - feels like its lead-filled. Certainly gives a different (tho not unpleasant) heft to the shift action! leather-wrapped too....
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
04-01-11, 08:41 AM
#103
On RX number 8..........
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When I had my RX8, I liked the look of the stock ****, but it felt weird in my hand. I always liked simple big grip ball shift *****. I swapped it for a Team Vodoo magnum ****. When I sold my RX8, I kept the RX8 **** as a momento. I ended up giving it to my best friend as a birthday gift for his Turbo II. Still has it.
07-10-11, 01:03 AM
#104
BFH Racing
Join Date: Aug 2006
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I got a crackhead deal on a Nardi Evolution:
Long story short, it's for a Miata, and does not fit the shifter on my 83 FB. Is it true that an S5 N/A shifter is a drop in affair?
Thanks,
Josh
Long story short, it's for a Miata, and does not fit the shifter on my 83 FB. Is it true that an S5 N/A shifter is a drop in affair?
Thanks,
Josh
09-28-11, 12:34 AM
#106
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Made this..picture doesn't do it justice. It's so comfy and i like longer throws so it help with that.
And before it was finished.
And before it was finished.
Last edited by Colbskee; 09-28-11 at 12:41 AM.
09-28-11, 12:33 PM
#108
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Haha that's what everyone asks. But i turned it from dried Laburnam, then stained and coated it with polyurethane and satin clear coat.
But in order to get the perfect piece of wood, my friend and I trekked into the forest one morning with nothing but an axe and the determination to find the perfect wood for this shift ****. We found the Laburnam tree, chopped it down(took at least 13 hours). Then we took a core sample from the heart of the trunk. Trekked back home with the perfect piece and continued to spend hours on hand shaping it to get it perfect. Then it was sanded to 4000 grit, coated with tung oil, let it dry dry and then has about 8 coats of satin polyurethane. Then sanded back to 4000 inbetween each coat for smoothness.
-Based on a true story.
If you ask me this is the most epic shift **** to ever have been in a first gen.
But in order to get the perfect piece of wood, my friend and I trekked into the forest one morning with nothing but an axe and the determination to find the perfect wood for this shift ****. We found the Laburnam tree, chopped it down(took at least 13 hours). Then we took a core sample from the heart of the trunk. Trekked back home with the perfect piece and continued to spend hours on hand shaping it to get it perfect. Then it was sanded to 4000 grit, coated with tung oil, let it dry dry and then has about 8 coats of satin polyurethane. Then sanded back to 4000 inbetween each coat for smoothness.
-Based on a true story.
If you ask me this is the most epic shift **** to ever have been in a first gen.
Last edited by Colbskee; 09-28-11 at 12:51 PM.
09-28-11, 09:41 PM
#113
Environmentally-Hostile
09-30-11, 11:45 AM
#114
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This thread is also more proof that Mazda did a ****-poor job of engineering for the the proper fitment of the shifter boots.
Almost everyone's here has fallen out of place or is just kind "thrown into the hole"
We really need to come up with a permanent fix that looks great, without having to drill holes and what-not.
Perhaps some kind of Billet ring? IDK.
Almost everyone's here has fallen out of place or is just kind "thrown into the hole"
We really need to come up with a permanent fix that looks great, without having to drill holes and what-not.
Perhaps some kind of Billet ring? IDK.
I fixed mine by making my own "clips" to replace the broken ones on the underside of the panel. Here's the secret: hot glue the boot into place on the underside by sealing all of the cracks around the edge of the rubber, and carefully let it dry without moving the boot (so that the glue stays clear when it hardens and not cloudy/milky). Next, put a drop or two of super glue straight into the holes on the boot where the clips are supposed to be, until there's a small pool of glue overflowing onto the rubber. Immediately afterwards, take some Zip Kicker* and spray the pools to instantly harden them, effectively creating a fastening clip out of super glue. Finish up by wiping/cleaning off the excess Zip Kicker on the underside of the boot and panel. You can leave the hot glue on for extra security or you can peel it off at this point (I just left mine on). Install back into the car and enjoy your fixed shifter boot!
*If you've never used Zip Kicker before, make ABSOLUTELY SURE that there's no super glue on your fingers, even in trace amounts. There's nothing pleasant about accidentally touching a Zip Kicker-coated surface and then having to saw at frozen, dead skin between your finger and the surface to free yourself. Ask me how I know.
10-01-11, 01:27 AM
#116
I fixed mine by making my own "clips" to replace the broken ones on the underside of the panel. Here's the secret: hot glue the boot into place on the underside by sealing all of the cracks around the edge of the rubber, and carefully let it dry without moving the boot (so that the glue stays clear when it hardens and not cloudy/milky). Next, put a drop or two of super glue straight into the holes on the boot where the clips are supposed to be, until there's a small pool of glue overflowing onto the rubber. Immediately afterwards, take some Zip Kicker* and spray the pools to instantly harden them, effectively creating a fastening clip out of super glue. Finish up by wiping/cleaning off the excess Zip Kicker on the underside of the boot and panel. You can leave the hot glue on for extra security or you can peel it off at this point (I just left mine on). Install back into the car and enjoy your fixed shifter boot!
*If you've never used Zip Kicker before, make ABSOLUTELY SURE that there's no super glue on your fingers, even in trace amounts. There's nothing pleasant about accidentally touching a Zip Kicker-coated surface and then having to saw at frozen, dead skin between your finger and the surface to free yourself. Ask me how I know.
Sounds like you need to make a full write-up with detailed steps and pictures.
10-08-11, 11:00 PM
#117
Rotary Freak
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Kitchener, Ont. Canada
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got this one custom made by another forum member 
I love the old school 'm' symbol
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/441/047kr.jpg/
I love the old school 'm' symbolhttp://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/441/047kr.jpg/
10-09-11, 02:16 AM
#118
got this one custom made by another forum member I love the old school 'm' symbol
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/441/047kr.jpg/
I love the old school 'm' symbolhttp://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/441/047kr.jpg/
10-09-11, 03:25 AM
#119
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10-12-11, 05:04 AM
#120
Haha that's what everyone asks. But i turned it from dried Laburnam, then stained and coated it with polyurethane and satin clear coat.
But in order to get the perfect piece of wood, my friend and I trekked into the forest one morning with nothing but an axe and the determination to find the perfect wood for this shift ****. We found the Laburnam tree, chopped it down(took at least 13 hours). Then we took a core sample from the heart of the trunk. Trekked back home with the perfect piece and continued to spend hours on hand shaping it to get it perfect. Then it was sanded to 4000 grit, coated with tung oil, let it dry dry and then has about 8 coats of satin polyurethane. Then sanded back to 4000 inbetween each coat for smoothness.
-Based on a true story.
If you ask me this is the most epic shift **** to ever have been in a first gen.
But in order to get the perfect piece of wood, my friend and I trekked into the forest one morning with nothing but an axe and the determination to find the perfect wood for this shift ****. We found the Laburnam tree, chopped it down(took at least 13 hours). Then we took a core sample from the heart of the trunk. Trekked back home with the perfect piece and continued to spend hours on hand shaping it to get it perfect. Then it was sanded to 4000 grit, coated with tung oil, let it dry dry and then has about 8 coats of satin polyurethane. Then sanded back to 4000 inbetween each coat for smoothness.
-Based on a true story.
If you ask me this is the most epic shift **** to ever have been in a first gen.
OEM Maroon Shift ****
10-16-11, 12:28 AM
#122
I've been messing around with *****, and really fell in love with the Razo ra121. Then I was thinking about getting a wood one to match my steering wheel, ebrake handle, and my black/brown interior so I picked up a momo and sanded/painted the chrome black. Looks good, but don't like the feel very much so I've thought about going back to the Razo or getting the heavier RA122 which is 450g compared to 350...... and while looking I stumbled on this beauty I'd never seen before.
Ordered it right away.
Ordered it right away.
12-09-11, 06:24 AM
#125
The flash makes everything appear grey(er) than they are. The **** is black, I had them put charcoal stitching in it to make it stand out slightly. The boots (shift and ebrake) are charcoal w/silver stiching and are the only things on the car not true to OEM. My version of modifing my car! It's ok, I still have the original boots tucked away in a zip lock......