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Old 02-19-11 | 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Banzai
Well you may not be able to do some things unless the component can be disasembled into the basic part you want to plate. When I do the relay covers, they are removed from the actual mechanism because there's no way the relay itself would survive. You can't Zinc non ferrious metals, aluminium brass, copper and such. The chemicals will eat those materials. Different process's are used on these like anodize for aluminium. So, depending on what you want to do and if it can be broken down, it may or may not be doable or worth the effort and work.
Since spme of that parts would be near imposible to take apart, I may just try the Eastwood gold cad system.
Old 02-20-11 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by RX-7 Chris
Since spme of that parts would be near imposible to take apart, I may just try the Eastwood gold cad system.
I actually tried that and was disapointed. More like paint, less like plating. As far as cleaning, you probably want to begin with a degreaser if it's been years or never done before. Several products like simple green and others are out there. A good scrubbing and/or high presure wash help remove years of buildup.

Removing components from the fenders, firewall and engine give you additional access to work on the painted surfaces and a chance to detail the components themselves. This can all be a lot more than an afternoon or weakend project. In fact, owning, working on and maintaining any old vehicle is an on going and never ending project.
Old 02-20-11 | 05:27 PM
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It was because of the difficulty involved in finding a convenient place to do plating that I first started with the anodized-look paint that I've used. Once started down that path, I found myself unwilling to undo all my work & switch over to plating

It's not 'stock' look, but it's quite pretty and gets a lot of compliments. Also the only paint Ive found that stands up to fuel, oil, and heat well. Most people think it's actual anodizing even when looking up close.

It does scratch sort of easy, though.
Old 02-20-11 | 06:29 PM
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I don't believe there are any real right or wrong solutions. In the end, its our own money and vehicles. The only ones who we should make happy is ourselves.
Old 02-20-11 | 07:23 PM
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like j9fd3s said, the yellow sticker is a coolant 50/50 caution sticker
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Old 02-21-11 | 09:39 AM
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branca thanks
Old 02-21-11 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Banzai
I don't believe there are any real right or wrong solutions. In the end, its our own money and vehicles. The only ones who we should make happy is ourselves.
Absolutely (except for people ruining perfectly good SA's, heheh)

Had I known before my last rebuild all I know now, I likely would have got the re-plate route. But I'm totally satisfied with how what I've done has turned out.

Finally winning a couple show trophies has radically changed my wife's opinion of the car - - from "Why don't you get rid of it? It uses up space!" to "Are you going to any shows later this year?" - - which in turn greatly improved my quality of life.

She's even ridden along to meets on occasion. So count me as "Satisfied with results."
Old 02-21-11 | 12:21 PM
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thats always a good change. My wife is fine with me fixing up the car and keeping it but I can't get her to come to meets.
Old 02-23-11 | 10:04 AM
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Banzai, I'm thinking of trying the Eastwood gold cad system even though you said it looked like paint. I did a bunch of searching and the people that had the most luck used a silver cad paint before the gold cad system and than finished it off with diamond clear for depth.

I still plan to have most everything plated. I just need the paint for the BAC valve, charcoal canister, etc.
Old 02-24-11 | 08:28 PM
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That was just my opinion on my exprience. There is always more than one way to accomplish a task. You might just find a twist that works better or is just what you want. I'm always experimenting with different things. You should see all the polishes, wax's and cleaning products on my detail cart.
Old 02-25-11 | 09:36 AM
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Do you have any other solution for the BAC valve since I can't just pull it apart and finding one with perfect plating is probably imposible?
Old 02-28-11 | 10:23 AM
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Sorry, no real subsutute for plating that I know of. Not that I like anyway. Doesn't mean you can't try or experiment or might be satisfied with.
Old 02-28-11 | 10:28 AM
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Very true.

Maybe I will see if there is a way of taking the BAC valve apart without destroying it. I had access to one for cheap in the junk yard a while back, now I wish I would have picked it up. I was looking through my parts yesterday and I do have extra relays that I can have plated.
Old 02-28-11 | 10:47 AM
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A bit more tricky if this is your daily driver as well.
Old 02-28-11 | 11:04 AM
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it is my DD so it is very tricky.
Old 03-07-11 | 11:52 AM
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A few new questions about the Buzzer/chime.

What do you think could cause them not to work?

Could something just be disconected?

Where are they actually located?
Old 03-07-11 | 12:37 PM
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When I first got my car the door open buzzer worked but sounded like it was dieing. Once the car I got the car to run it quit working. The car had a few electrical gremlins when I first got it which was why it didn't run. Everything else in the interior works just fine including the dome light and the ignition light.

I saw this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=buzzer

Is the GSL-SE similar?
Old 03-07-11 | 03:48 PM
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i would remove each doow switch and clean each switch and make sure the contact points on the switches are good. when reinstalling the switches, be careful not to overtighten the screws as they strip easily.
Old 03-07-11 | 04:05 PM
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Do you think that could be the problem even though the dome light works still?
Old 03-11-11 | 10:18 AM
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I'm going to mess with this a little today.
Old 03-11-11 | 03:19 PM
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The buzzer is fixed. It was the switch attached to the ignition. I had to pull it apart and resolder the wires. I also pulled and cleaned the door switches.
Old 03-11-11 | 04:44 PM
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thanks for the update Chris! were the solder joints corroded, detatched or cold?
Old 03-11-11 | 05:20 PM
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They were mostly detached. When I pulled the column cover, I could mess with the wires and get it to work. I had to do the soldering with the switch in the car. I just poped the switch off the ignition and let it hang.
Old 04-07-11 | 03:39 PM
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What would be the best way to clean up the fan shroud and other black plastic parts under the hood?

Mine are in good shape just a little grungy looking. I wanted to give it that nice factory shine without making it a dirt magnet.
Old 04-07-11 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by RX-7 Chris
What would be the best way to clean up the fan shroud and other black plastic parts under the hood?

Mine are in good shape just a little grungy looking. I wanted to give it that nice factory shine without making it a dirt magnet.
scrub with simple green and then anything you'd use on the dash, or tires would be ok, less probably attracts less dirt.


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