Restoration Questions.
02-19-11, 06:33 PM
#26
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Well you may not be able to do some things unless the component can be disasembled into the basic part you want to plate. When I do the relay covers, they are removed from the actual mechanism because there's no way the relay itself would survive. You can't Zinc non ferrious metals, aluminium brass, copper and such. The chemicals will eat those materials. Different process's are used on these like anodize for aluminium. So, depending on what you want to do and if it can be broken down, it may or may not be doable or worth the effort and work.
02-20-11, 10:11 AM
#27
Since spme of that parts would be near imposible to take apart, I may just try the Eastwood gold cad system.
Removing components from the fenders, firewall and engine give you additional access to work on the painted surfaces and a chance to detail the components themselves. This can all be a lot more than an afternoon or weakend project. In fact, owning, working on and maintaining any old vehicle is an on going and never ending project.
02-20-11, 05:27 PM
#28
It was because of the difficulty involved in finding a convenient place to do plating that I first started with the anodized-look paint that I've used. Once started down that path, I found myself unwilling to undo all my work & switch over to plating
It's not 'stock' look, but it's quite pretty and gets a lot of compliments. Also the only paint Ive found that stands up to fuel, oil, and heat well. Most people think it's actual anodizing even when looking up close.
It does scratch sort of easy, though.
It's not 'stock' look, but it's quite pretty and gets a lot of compliments. Also the only paint Ive found that stands up to fuel, oil, and heat well. Most people think it's actual anodizing even when looking up close.
It does scratch sort of easy, though.
02-21-11, 12:09 PM
#32
(except for people ruining perfectly good SA's, heheh)Had I known before my last rebuild all I know now, I likely would have got the re-plate route. But I'm totally satisfied with how what I've done has turned out.
Finally winning a couple show trophies has radically changed my wife's opinion of the car - - from "Why don't you get rid of it? It uses up space!" to "Are you going to any shows later this year?" - - which in turn greatly improved my quality of life.
She's even ridden along to meets on occasion.
So count me as "Satisfied with results."
02-23-11, 10:04 AM
#34
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Banzai, I'm thinking of trying the Eastwood gold cad system even though you said it looked like paint. I did a bunch of searching and the people that had the most luck used a silver cad paint before the gold cad system and than finished it off with diamond clear for depth.
I still plan to have most everything plated. I just need the paint for the BAC valve, charcoal canister, etc.
I still plan to have most everything plated. I just need the paint for the BAC valve, charcoal canister, etc.
02-24-11, 08:28 PM
#35
That was just my opinion on my exprience. There is always more than one way to accomplish a task. You might just find a twist that works better or is just what you want. I'm always experimenting with different things. You should see all the polishes, wax's and cleaning products on my detail cart.
02-25-11, 09:36 AM
#36
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Do you have any other solution for the BAC valve since I can't just pull it apart and finding one with perfect plating is probably imposible?
02-28-11, 10:28 AM
#38
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Very true.
Maybe I will see if there is a way of taking the BAC valve apart without destroying it. I had access to one for cheap in the junk yard a while back, now I wish I would have picked it up. I was looking through my parts yesterday and I do have extra relays that I can have plated.
Maybe I will see if there is a way of taking the BAC valve apart without destroying it. I had access to one for cheap in the junk yard a while back, now I wish I would have picked it up. I was looking through my parts yesterday and I do have extra relays that I can have plated.
03-07-11, 11:52 AM
#41
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A few new questions about the Buzzer/chime.
What do you think could cause them not to work?
Could something just be disconected?
Where are they actually located?
What do you think could cause them not to work?
Could something just be disconected?
Where are they actually located?
03-07-11, 12:37 PM
#42
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When I first got my car the door open buzzer worked but sounded like it was dieing. Once the car I got the car to run it quit working. The car had a few electrical gremlins when I first got it which was why it didn't run. Everything else in the interior works just fine including the dome light and the ignition light.
I saw this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=buzzer
Is the GSL-SE similar?
I saw this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=buzzer
Is the GSL-SE similar?
03-11-11, 03:19 PM
#46
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The buzzer is fixed. It was the switch attached to the ignition. I had to pull it apart and resolder the wires. I also pulled and cleaned the door switches.
03-11-11, 05:20 PM
#48
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They were mostly detached. When I pulled the column cover, I could mess with the wires and get it to work. I had to do the soldering with the switch in the car. I just poped the switch off the ignition and let it hang.
04-07-11, 03:39 PM
#49
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What would be the best way to clean up the fan shroud and other black plastic parts under the hood?
Mine are in good shape just a little grungy looking. I wanted to give it that nice factory shine without making it a dirt magnet.
Mine are in good shape just a little grungy looking. I wanted to give it that nice factory shine without making it a dirt magnet.
04-07-11, 04:46 PM
#50
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scrub with simple green and then anything you'd use on the dash, or tires would be ok, less probably attracts less dirt.
