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I have been trying to get my 84' GSL-SE on the road for 4 years. Replaced fuel pump, radiator, water pump, coils, igniter, slave and master clutch cylinders, etc. Finally ready for the inspection. A friend power washed it, and we started it up again. Gas everywhere. Came from under the RE-EGI box. Looked like a tube/hose going into a tube with a bolt. I looked it up and this is the fuel pulsation dampener. I went online and found at 13B ETC, a banjor bolt in replacement for the dampener for $20. I believe the part it replaces sells for $145ish at Atkins Rotary. My question: is the banjo bolt deal a good idea or should I go with the actual dampener? What would be the pros and cons? I really appreciate any help you all can provide. It seems like I've been trying to get this car on the road for far too long.
There are two pulsation dampeners in your car. One at fuel pump,one on fuel rail. The one at pump dampens pulses generated by pump and dampener at fuel rail absorbs pulses of injectors opening/closing. Without these the components of fuel system will literally be hammered in the same way as air in plumbing in an older house causes pipes to bang.
The question of replacing fuel rail dampener with a banjo bolt comes up from time to time...Mazda thought enough of them to include not one but two,always a good idea to leave them in place. 1st gen dampeners tend to rust out and begin to leak,can't help but wonder if high pressure stream of water blasted out a section of dampener that may have been weakened by corrosion. Much more common for 2nd gen pulsation dampeners to leak fuel than 1st gens.
Are you sure dampener is leaking and not fuel pressure regulator on other end of fuel rail? It has both a vacuum line attached to it and a high pressure fuel hose returning fuel to tank. Is it possible the high pressure stream could have cracked that now heat hardened 35 year old hose? Maybe a 2nd look?
Atkins price on that dampener is substantial,maybe try to search here in classifieds for a good used one. Look on the bay of E,have seen them on there for sale still attached to fuel rail/lines.
Yikes! I was standing at the passenger side looking under the box. I saw gas squirting out in a single stream. Using a flashlight, while the engine was turned over, I saw what appeared to be either a hose or section of white or yellow plastic, spewing gasoline like crazy. We needed way more light and younger eyes. This was all at the front of the engine. Does this help? The car is store one hour north of where I live making this more difficult.
A bright light will help,as will having a fire extinguisher on hand...dry off or let dry the whole area on top of engine,may be easier to use an inspection mirror and have it in place before assistant cranks engine over.
Another suggestion would be to remove leading and trailing coil wires from dist cap and using a pair of jumper wires,ground them to the body of car away from top of engine. There will be no sparking,so no ignition of fuel or fumes. Ignition voltage will be dissipated into body of car with no damage to the system.You can be a little less on edge while trying to find source of fuel leak.
There is a test connector you can use to pressurize system to be sure of no leaks before reassembling engine without having to crank it over.
Here's a pic of top side of fuel rail as you see it,pulsation damper to front of engine and fuel pressure regulator to rear of engine. It is possible? the fuel damper may just be loose,you won't know until you can get wrenches on it and to do this and/or replace it,you will have to remove upper intake manifold and everything attached to it. Not a real hard job,somewhat tedious,need to take care that you don't break any plastic nipples/fittings.
Last edited by GSLSEforme; 07-04-19 at 01:08 PM.
Reason: add pic
Atkins says I don't need the pulsation dampener. But, I'm leaning toward replacing it with a new one anyway. Also, while researching its replacement on YouTube, I came across videos discussing 13B throttle bump, erratic idle, and so forth. In these cases, ithe culprit was worn fuel injector grommets. Since I'll have to take off the top to replace the pulsation dampener, exposing the injectors, I may replace them as well.
Atkins says I don't need the pulsation dampener. But, I'm leaning toward replacing it with a new one anyway. Also, while researching its replacement on YouTube, I came across videos discussing 13B throttle bump, erratic idle, and so forth. In these cases, ithe culprit was worn fuel injector grommets. Since I'll have to take off the top to replace the pulsation dampener, exposing the injectors, I may replace them as well.
it will run, without the damper, if you needed to be at work tomorrow its ok to ditch it. however it is there for a reason, and long term you do want to replace it. and you are correct, since you're right there you might as well replace the injector o rings
the tip for this one is to break the damper loose and then remove the rail from the car, the damper is TIGHT. when re assembling you want to make sure the fuel line is pointing the right way, not sure of the GSL-SE does this, but if the fuel line is pointed too high, the intake hits it, and it will loosen
it is almost possible to do the GSL-SE damper without pulling the intake, but if you drop a washer or something the intake needs to come off, and its really easy to pull the intake, so you might as well
it will run, without the damper, if you needed to be at work tomorrow its ok to ditch it. however it is there for a reason, and long term you do want to replace it. and you are correct, since you're right there you might as well replace the injector o rings
the tip for this one is to break the damper loose and then remove the rail from the car, the damper is TIGHT. when re assembling you want to make sure the fuel line is pointing the right way, not sure of the GSL-SE does this, but if the fuel line is pointed too high, the intake hits it, and it will loosen
it is almost possible to do the GSL-SE damper without pulling the intake, but if you drop a washer or something the intake needs to come off, and its really easy to pull the intake, so you might as well
Thanks. The insights and information I've received here are a really big help and I feel confident in doing this work now. I appreciate everyone taking the time to steer me in the right directionas opposed to trial and error which is frustrating and expensive.
Removing the Upper Intake Manifold is only 7 bolts / nuts, plus vacuum lines.
There are 4x12mm nuts on the intake tubing side (*one long bolt down the center), and 2x10mm flange bolts holding a support on the drivers side. Once those are loose, you can start removing the vacuum lines and intake plenum hose (2x12mm chrome nuts). All of this comes apart in about 15min, and off in 30min once youve done it a few times. With the Upper Intake Manifold removed, it's very easy to get to the fuel rail and injectors, and I highly recommend checking the condition of the connectors and wiring harness under the EGI box when it's off; typical to have an intermittent connection on one of the fuel injector bungs which will cause misfiring and lean mixture. That there are only 2 injectors to think about is a blessing in disguise.
Also, check the condition of the fuel injection tubing for the feed and return lines; if you bend it and it crunches, replace it. Replace ONLY with rated Fuel Injection Hose, as standard tubing will burst under pressure and risk an engine fire. Good luck,
I contacted the local Mazda dealer who said it would be around $500 to diagnose the problem, not including tow. So I truly appreciate your advice and that of other forum members. Without it, people like me could never afford to bring one of these cars back to life. I had 5 Rx7s before this, and this project is bringing back lots of memories, all good. It all started in 1979, at a Mazda dealership on Route 40, in Aberdeen, Maryland.
I contacted the local Mazda dealer who said it would be around $500 to diagnose the problem, not including tow. So I truly appreciate your advice and that of other forum members. Without it, people like me could never afford to bring one of these cars back to life. I had 5 Rx7s before this, and this project is bringing back lots of memories, all good. It all started in 1979, at a Mazda dealership on Route 40, in Aberdeen, Maryland.
Service writers that give you a wildly high quote on a repair like that-sight unseen actually don’t want to do the job or get your business for several reasons.
We’ll cover just two as that’s all that’s needed.
1st,they know they can’t make money on an old car,it’ll tie up service bays longer that can generate more money on more modern models much faster because they can’t keep enough parts in stock for the modern stuff,it’s a guarantee they will have nothing on hand for a 1st gen. Their parts dept guys-the majority were born way after these cars came and went from mainstream,would not know where to begin to find parts for these cars,they don’t know the cars and finally they get paid commission on what they sell and therefore have no interest in spending an afternoon looking up parts for an old car
Even though it’s a Mazda dealer they are not bound to work on your old car and have right to refuse to do so
2nd,almost a guarantee there will not be a tech in that dealer that knows how to work on a 1st gen,maybe not ever seen one before.
The current crop of scanner toting parts replacers would do more harm than good/make a profit. They don’t want to work on your car,
Service writers know all this-as they work off commissions too and won’t jeapordize their paycheck,certainly management of dealerships support this as they have such high overhead and need to produce!
Apple's and oranges? I was pointing out that the dealer would charge $500 simply for diagnostics and then parts and labor to fix it as opposed to doing it myself made possible by the people on this forum who have explained what I need and how to fix it. I found it for $150 at Atkins Rotary and I'm doing the work with with a friend paid in lemonade. Apple's and oranges?
Service writers that give you a wildly high quote on a repair like that-sight unseen actually don’t want to do the job or get your business for several reasons.
We’ll cover just two as that’s all that’s needed.
1st,they know they can’t make money on an old car,it’ll tie up service bays longer that can generate more money on more modern models much faster because they can’t keep enough parts in stock for the modern stuff,it’s a guarantee they will have nothing on hand for a 1st gen. Their parts dept guys-the majority were born way after these cars came and went from mainstream,would not know where to begin to find parts for these cars,they don’t know the cars and finally they get paid commission on what they sell and therefore have no interest in spending an afternoon looking up parts for an old car
Even though it’s a Mazda dealer they are not bound to work on your old car and have right to refuse to do so
2nd,almost a guarantee there will not be a tech in that dealer that knows how to work on a 1st gen,maybe not ever seen one before.
The current crop of scanner toting parts replacers would do more harm than good/make a profit. They don’t want to work on your car,
Service writers know all this-as they work off commissions too and won’t jeapordize their paycheck,certainly management of dealerships support this as they have such high overhead and need to produce!
I got to know one of the service guys. He told me they hated working on Rx7s and didn't really want to mess with them. When I mentioned Rx8's, he laughed and would say no more. As an aside, I have a modern sports car, a 2015 Nissan 370Z and got to know one of the service guys at Nissan and he said the same about this car....
Apple's and oranges? I was pointing out that the dealer would charge $500 simply for diagnostics and then parts and labor to fix it as opposed to doing it myself made possible by the people on this forum who have explained what I need and how to fix it. I found it for $150 at Atkins Rotary and I'm doing the work with with a friend paid in lemonade. Apple's and oranges?
well maybe lemons and apples? you can't pay a shop in lemonade...
My confidence wasn't inspired when, at the Nissan dealer talking with service/mechanics about working on a 280Z and at the nearby Mazda dealer talking to the same about my 84 Rx7, both told me how they would much rather be working on Ford and or Chevy trucks. Uh, okay. Check please.
Last edited by Inspector71; 07-11-19 at 12:27 PM.
Reason: Spelling
Nobody but us work on these cars, anymore. I wouldn't trust anybody to wrench on my Rx7, because who knows what they'll break not knowing it's intricacies and idiosyncracies.
We changed the dampener, injector grommets, and plenum gasket. Lo and behold, found the fuel main hose rupture and split as if someone was skinning a snake. We replaced it and the return hose. The car would not run right. We took pictures and marked hoses but some did not end up where they belonged. A Second day, taking everything apart, and redoing hoses, resulted in a smoothly running idling car. A remaining problem is the throttle. It seems to stick and run at 2k rpm. I hit the accelerator peddle, like we did in the days setting a carb choke, and usually that knocks it back down. But still sticking. Okay off for the inspection. During the 3.5 mile drive, I smelled burning plastic. I had smelled this several months ago on a test drive and even thought I saw light smoke from under the dash. This was brushed aside as engine smells from sitting too long. Same smell today. We get to the inspection place and guess what, the turn signals don't work. They did when I pulled out. The oil pressure gauge needle buries to the right, and maybe the fuel gauge is not working. The parking lamps and brake lights worked fine as did the headlamps.The car failed.
Back at the ranch, we checked fuses, all good, Lights all good. I checked the email from the forum member from whom I purchased the car, Dave up in Nebraska. He said the car had a short affecting the clock and and hazards. He said 15a fuses blew when he plugged them in. H added; "Could also be from the PO hitch wiring. I believe I disconnected everything but maybe I missed a wire." I didn't know what he meant by PO hitch wiring. The next day he wrote to say he found the short and everything worked including the antenna. He said the shorted wire was the one going to the dome light. It was pinched. between the roof metal and plastic going to the ground.
The oil pressure gauge seems connected, it just buries the needle. Does not appear the fuel gauge works. The antenna never worked. All lights work except the turn signals and hazards. If the picture comes out, I found this in the back, the bracket holding all the plug ins for the turn signals and hazards. Online pics did little to reveal where this part goes and how to get to it.
Any help will, as always, be greatly appreciated. Pulsation Dampener, and the seal and washer, lower plenum gasket, and injector grommets.
If anyone can tell a non-electrician how and where to find this, and what to look for, I'd appreciate it. Also. Is there anyway to test the one in the back of the car to see if it worked. I also found 2 more plastic covers for the cigarette lighter plus pod for the hazard light switch and headlamp switch. Don't know why so many parts are back there unless the previous owner was sorting through them trying to find one that worked. I also suspect, If I find a melted wire, start there. What makes this so frustrating is, because the car is not currently registered, I have to store it at a friends small farm, over an hour north of where I live. Yeah, I'm frustrated. The seller said he had fixed everything and it was road worthy...
Before all the above problems, the seller delivered what he promised, in writing, as a road worthy ready to go car. I replaced the radiator and hoses, water pump, coils and plug wires, fuel pump, oil pan gasket, tires, and more. Guess I learned my lesson trusting what I'm told without being able to do a thorough check.
1st thing to check with sticking/hanging idle is accelerator and cruise cables for proper free play. If you're certain you have all vacuum hoses back in original positions...did the car exhibit these issues previous to disassembly? Next thing to check would be TPS adjustment.
Do you have a FSM? Google foxed.ca rx7 manuals...Here is a light checker you can make to test/adjust TPS. Bulbs are 3.4 watts.Made from old dash light sockets with #74 bulbs. 1 leg of each lamp is connected together. Green three terminal connector near TPS harness is where test light is connected.
Certain all fuses good,how are you checking. Does the indash clock work? Disconnect oil pressure sender wire from sender and note operation of gauge. Sender is located below oil filter pedestal, threads in housing,round in shape.
1st thing to check with sticking/hanging idle is accelerator and cruise cables for proper free play. If you're certain you have all vacuum hoses back in original positions...did the car exhibit these issues previous to disassembly? Next thing to check would be TPS adjustment.
Do you have a FSM? Google foxed.ca rx7 manuals...Here is a light checker you can make to test/adjust TPS. Bulbs are 3.4 watts.Made from old dash light sockets with #74 bulbs. 1 leg of each lamp is connected together. Green three terminal connector near TPS harness is where test light is connected.
Certain all fuses good,how are you checking. Does the indash clock work? Disconnect oil pressure sender wire from sender and note operation of gauge. Sender is located below oil filter pedestal, threads in housing,round in shape.
I am taking your reply with me tomorrow as a guide. I really appreciate this kind of help.
This forum member sacrificed his Saturday on a hot (100 in the shade) day to take over finding the problem with the turn signals/4-way flasher. It was even hotter in my friend's pole barn. The former forum member I bought this car from said he had a masters in history but perhaps I misunderstood. A masters in "Jerry-rigging" with a minor in; "did I take that part off before I sold it?" would be apropos. Anyway, KansasCityREPU was able to rule out many potential problems, fix others, and once we are able to trace the evil short hiding behind the dash, this car should be on the road. Also thanks goes to all who replied here. I hope you all realize without this forum and your willingness to help, cars like mine would be at U-Wrench it. I salute you all.
Last edited by Inspector71; 07-20-19 at 06:26 PM.
Reason: Missing word(s)
07-03-19, 07:14 PM
