rarest and hottest wheels for 1st gen
#378
S366 is my Haven
#380
^^^
No if you looked at the pic right before I posted the car those are HAYASHI "Perrier" wheels or 504 meshies. 1 piece. And yeah the car is lowered on cut Eibach sport springs and Tokico blues all around.
Thanks so much for the kind words!
No if you looked at the pic right before I posted the car those are HAYASHI "Perrier" wheels or 504 meshies. 1 piece. And yeah the car is lowered on cut Eibach sport springs and Tokico blues all around.
Thanks so much for the kind words!
#381
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Rocket City, Alabama
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
You need a wide body kit to run these.
I have one pair of these HRE wheels left for sale, size 15x10" wide, 4" back spacing, no tires mounted. Cost $900 new, will sell for $425 + postage for the pair.
speedturn@hotmail.com
I have one pair of these HRE wheels left for sale, size 15x10" wide, 4" back spacing, no tires mounted. Cost $900 new, will sell for $425 + postage for the pair.
speedturn@hotmail.com
#383
Smoov-e "Dick Like Mine"
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Nor Cal assassin
Posts: 542
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You need a wide body kit to run these.
I have one pair of these HRE wheels left for sale, size 15x10" wide, 4" back spacing, no tires mounted. Cost $900 new, will sell for $425 + postage for the pair.
speedturn@hotmail.com
I have one pair of these HRE wheels left for sale, size 15x10" wide, 4" back spacing, no tires mounted. Cost $900 new, will sell for $425 + postage for the pair.
speedturn@hotmail.com
#386
Old [Sch|F]ool
It's a motor vehicle, not a statue. I drive it about 15-20k per year and spend roughly half my salary on motorsports.
If I didn't like it, I'd slam it and polish it and turn it into some garage queen lawn ornament. Or sell it to some schmuck who would do the same thing, probably, since I hate shiny things. A car that isn't driven is just a piece of metal and a waste of space.
That said I am thinking of selling the wheels now that I am converting to 4.5" bolt pattern. How does $800 sound? If I don't get at least that then I'll just scrap them, after all I apparently don't care for the car...
Here's the other set of 110mm wheels I have, not counting the two waffles I still have left:
225-50-15 on 15x7 Koseis requires rolling the fenders a LOT for clearance:
When I move the subframe forward I will have to cut a couple inches out of the wheelarch.
If I didn't like it, I'd slam it and polish it and turn it into some garage queen lawn ornament. Or sell it to some schmuck who would do the same thing, probably, since I hate shiny things. A car that isn't driven is just a piece of metal and a waste of space.
That said I am thinking of selling the wheels now that I am converting to 4.5" bolt pattern. How does $800 sound? If I don't get at least that then I'll just scrap them, after all I apparently don't care for the car...
Here's the other set of 110mm wheels I have, not counting the two waffles I still have left:
225-50-15 on 15x7 Koseis requires rolling the fenders a LOT for clearance:
When I move the subframe forward I will have to cut a couple inches out of the wheelarch.
#387
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
That is really an uneducated comment. RX7s have a long impressive racing history. PeeJay is more than capable of setting up his car for whatever type of competition he wishes to participate in and performing any needed repairs. Besides, what's a little mud anyway, it washes off.
While not many 7 owners still participate in rallying, I'm glad to see that at least some are. How many older cars can be setup to road race, autocross, rally, drag race, do time trials, gymkhana and drift? The list is short and it's a sports car. So be sporty and enjoy whatever competition one's little heart desires.
While not many 7 owners still participate in rallying, I'm glad to see that at least some are. How many older cars can be setup to road race, autocross, rally, drag race, do time trials, gymkhana and drift? The list is short and it's a sports car. So be sporty and enjoy whatever competition one's little heart desires.
#388
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
Have you ever measured the lip on those wheels?
I just picked up some new SSR fins from Japan but the lip is pretty fat. The offset of the wheels is not listed. I bought them knowing that the probably wouldnt fit but I just wanted them incase I got an old schooler that they might fit on.
Anyways, does anyone think these will fit the first gen or is there no way in hell?
I just picked up some new SSR fins from Japan but the lip is pretty fat. The offset of the wheels is not listed. I bought them knowing that the probably wouldnt fit but I just wanted them incase I got an old schooler that they might fit on.
Anyways, does anyone think these will fit the first gen or is there no way in hell?
#389
Nah, the centers don't come out. IF I do get them, I'll get in contact with Twinkletoes, he did his own wheels and they look great!
I just found some 16 inch SSR Reverse mesh, brand new. 16x7 +27B offset fronts and 16x8+27C offset's in the rear. I've never found 16 inchers of this style wheel for sale. I'm not sure what the "B" and "C" part of the offset's mean? Maybe just an ssr thing. I do think I read awhile back that +27 is about the lowest offset you can fit on a gsl-se without the wheels sticking out. I hope my memory is correct. Here's the wheels (my car is white):
#390
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
The B and C relate to the center types. They are not interchangeable. I ran into the same problem with the pair I have for sale. I have one set of centers that are too large in diameter to mate to the shell. They look to be for a front wheel drive wheel. I believe you/we need the B centers. So I have a spare pair of Formula Mesh C centers in the 5X114.3 pcd. that I have no use for. The wheels you have pictured look like they're for a front wheel drive car. Do the centers have a notch for the valve stem? If so, they are probably C centers.
#391
The B and C relate to the center types. They are not interchangeable. I ran into the same problem with the pair I have for sale. I have one set of centers that are too large in diameter to mate to the shell. They look to be for a front wheel drive wheel. I believe you/we need the B centers. So I have a spare pair of Formula Mesh C centers in the 5X114.3 pcd. that I have no use for. The wheels you have pictured look like they're for a front wheel drive car. Do the centers have a notch for the valve stem? If so, they are probably C centers.
Thanks for the info! I can't tell if the centers have notches but it does look like the barrels do. What would the difference be between fwd and rwd other than offsets? I believe the gsl-se is practically a fwd offset. Do you think these would work for a gsl-se?
#393
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
Post a close up shot of the valve stem and center, then measure the backspacing. I don't deal with offsets since it changes with rim width whereas backspacing remains a constant. If the back spacing is 4 to 4-1/2", you're good. The rears can take almost 5" of backspacing, the fronts can't.
Your last pic shows the rims have more outer lip than the earlier ones do, they may work.
Your last pic shows the rims have more outer lip than the earlier ones do, they may work.
#394
RX for fun
iTrader: (13)
rear backspace should be 4.50 or more, max 5.00. otherwise, the front lips will not be wide enough and it looks funny seeing a big space between the inside tire wall and the frame. too bad this 60* in Socal is too cold for me. otherwise, I would have taken pix of my collections for you guys to drool on
#395
Post a close up shot of the valve stem and center, then measure the backspacing. I don't deal with offsets since it changes with rim width whereas backspacing remains a constant. If the back spacing is 4 to 4-1/2", you're good. The rears can take almost 5" of backspacing, the fronts can't.
Your last pic shows the rims have more outer lip than the earlier ones do, they may work.
Your last pic shows the rims have more outer lip than the earlier ones do, they may work.
rear backspace should be 4.50 or more, max 5.00. otherwise, the front lips will not be wide enough and it looks funny seeing a big space between the inside tire wall and the frame. too bad this 60* in Socal is too cold for me. otherwise, I would have taken pix of my collections for you guys to drool on
Thanks guys, unfortunately I can't take pics or get inches because these wheels are still in Japan. I wish it were easier. I might have to pass on these as I'm not sure if they will fit. I see what you mean regarding the valve stems. These deffinately come through the barells with a 90* bend and there is no notch on the centers.
Mel, I was LMAO when I read your comment about 60*!!!!! I know what you mean man! It's fricken cold out........hahah I wanted to ride my mountainbike this afternoon but it was cold and cloudy in OC.
#397
Chad Carson
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: South of Nashville TN. USA
Posts: 7,010
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I like the following:
Panasports
Meshies
Kosei K1's
Konig Rewinds
and I have a set of each. Pana's going on the 1st gen and not sure if the Mesh or Konig rewinds are going on the rx2.
Kosei's might be for my track rubber.
Panasports
Meshies
Kosei K1's
Konig Rewinds
and I have a set of each. Pana's going on the 1st gen and not sure if the Mesh or Konig rewinds are going on the rx2.
Kosei's might be for my track rubber.