View Poll Results: What color should I paint my FD eater?
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Mariah WB, Seats, Harness, Rollbar, T04, Re-Speed Etc...
08-24-10, 09:45 AM
#226
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Once I charge the battery, I can pull it away from the fence and take some pictures from the booty. I have a red tow hook back there to match the front and some interesting shapes due to my taping action around the Mazda and GSL-SE logo and tail lights in order to paint.
I hope you have quick disconnects on everything for changing out your engine. I thought Hondas were supposed to run forever and it was rotaries that always broke down...
I hope you have quick disconnects on everything for changing out your engine. I thought Hondas were supposed to run forever and it was rotaries that always broke down...
08-25-10, 04:14 PM
#227
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Carbotech XP10 front and rears are on their way. I also ordered two cans of Motul RBF600 brake fluid as I might as well bleed and flush everything out while I'm there. Not the cheapest pads on earth, but there are plenty that are far more expensive and if these save rotors like they claim that they do, they should pay for themselves.
Bodyshop update:
The bodyshop that I want to use is too busy to get my car in any time soon. However, over winter they have a lot more availability so I my just run it as is till winter when they can take their time and do it right. Besides, I do not drive it in the winter as I do not was salt exposure so they can keep it all winter if they want to.
Bodyshop update:
The bodyshop that I want to use is too busy to get my car in any time soon. However, over winter they have a lot more availability so I my just run it as is till winter when they can take their time and do it right. Besides, I do not drive it in the winter as I do not was salt exposure so they can keep it all winter if they want to.
08-25-10, 04:49 PM
#228
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and oh yeah, paint in winter, brilliant!
08-26-10, 08:16 AM
#229
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Well, pads came in yesterday and speedbleeders came in from Summit at the same time. Fast shipping--I love it!
I purchased them from Ampd Autosport http://www.ampdautosport.com/servlet/StoreFront
I wish companies like Mazdatrix and Rotary Performance would get parts out that fast. I know what the girlfriend and I will be doing this Saturday...
I purchased them from Ampd Autosport http://www.ampdautosport.com/servlet/StoreFront
I wish companies like Mazdatrix and Rotary Performance would get parts out that fast. I know what the girlfriend and I will be doing this Saturday...
08-26-10, 04:05 PM
#231
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Retail is around $1500 with another $50 for oil $200 for bearings and seals and another $650 for a new ring and pinion if you need one.
08-27-10, 07:53 AM
#234
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http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/whats-diff/
I have also driven in and ridden in KAAZ equiped cars and was not happy with the charateristics of the KAAZ so I did not want to go that route. In addition, if you research the setups of the nationally running cars (Miatas in particular), many of them are running OS Giken units--especially the front runners and winners.
General rule of thumb, you get what you pay for
.
08-27-10, 11:37 AM
#235
I did my research on the Miata forum that I am also a member of and the S2000 forum as those two Torsen units are almost identical. The Miata guys seem to be fine till they get to about 300 horses. Then it is hit and miss. The S2000 guys absolutely hate theirs, probably because their cars come from the factory with a lot more power so less extreme modifications start showing the weaknesses of the Torsen. Since my car currently has over 400 fw horses and I want the ability to upgrade to more in the future, the Torsen was out. The OS Giken unit was widely praised everywhere I looked and GRM did a comparison which the OS Giken won:
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/whats-diff/
I have also driven in and ridden in KAAZ equiped cars and was not happy with the charateristics of the KAAZ so I did not want to go that route. In addition, if you research the setups of the nationally running cars (Miatas in particular), many of them are running OS Giken units--especially the front runners and winners.
General rule of thumb, you get what you pay for .
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/whats-diff/
I have also driven in and ridden in KAAZ equiped cars and was not happy with the charateristics of the KAAZ so I did not want to go that route. In addition, if you research the setups of the nationally running cars (Miatas in particular), many of them are running OS Giken units--especially the front runners and winners.
General rule of thumb, you get what you pay for
.I was just noting it out there for people who didn't know what they can or can't fit in there.
I am however curious if you ever measured the spline length in the differential itself. I'm curious how it compares to the stock Miata spline unit.
08-30-10, 08:37 AM
#237
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I did some maintenance this weekend in preperation for the event next weekend.
Brakes:
I flushed out all of the old break fluid and put in Motul 600. I will bleed the breaks one more time prior to the event to ensure that I removed all of the air. Thankfully, I bought 2 500ml containers of the stuff.
Carbotech XP10. I did the rear breaks first and did not realize that I had a problem till I got to the front breaks--they had sent me two sets of rears! Not happy with that at all. I don't have time to return these and wait for the other ones so I will order the corect ones today.
Oil change:
Changed over the oil from my break-in oil to Mobile 1 15w-50. The technique for changing oil with the the Accusump is add 4-5 quarts, turn on the engine, open the Accusump, shut off the engine, add remaining oil. I put in 5, ran the engine then put in 2 more. The problem is that I am now over by a quart and I am confused. It is a three quart Accusump and 4+3=7 last time I checked.
Anyone with any suggestions?
08-31-10, 09:16 AM
#238
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Almost Race weekend, more post whoring!
Front breaks: The website incorrectly sold me CT131 XP10 for the front. That would have been fine if I still had the GSL-SE front breaks. The 4 piston FC/FD caliper uses CT331. Carbotech is out of those. I placed an order on Monday. They have to make them. I was told they will ship on Thursday, so it is down to the wire.
I need to let out 1 quart of oil. No use wasting Mobile 1 with 0 miles, so I will probably catch it in a water bottle or something. Thankfully, earlier this year I bought the little oil tap that Black Dragon sells which replaces the oil drain plug. This makes it easy to take oil samples and drain excess oil. I will also recheck my trasmission oil since I am down there.
The other day during a heat wave of 100+ degrees, my brand new Bosh 044 fuel pump started making an occasional grinding noise--as if a bearing was failing. Dave at KDR thinks that is highly unlikely and said it is probably a clogged fuel filter. The fuel filter is new and was put on with the pump. I dropped the fuel filter to see if the gas in it is dirty. By the time I got the filter out, all the gas had run down my dirty elbow and it was impossible to tell. The local Mazda realers do not have it in stock. So, I ordered a new one from Racing Beat as well as a FC water pump, gaskets, and new hoses (as I have a first gen water pump and something has a slight leak). It should be here by Friday. I also ordered another fuel pump. If I don't need it, I have a spare. I'm starting to learn to keep spares on hand at the track...
Since all the hotel rooms were sold out or did not allow dogs, I went and bought a tent (REI Basecamp 4), a camping gril, etc and I will be camping on the infield of Pocono with the girlfriend and the dogs. What better way to free up more time to be messing with the car? I will try to get some in-car video and if I am not too embarrassed by it (my lets call it "developing" driving skills), I will post it.
I need to let out 1 quart of oil. No use wasting Mobile 1 with 0 miles, so I will probably catch it in a water bottle or something. Thankfully, earlier this year I bought the little oil tap that Black Dragon sells which replaces the oil drain plug. This makes it easy to take oil samples and drain excess oil. I will also recheck my trasmission oil since I am down there.
The other day during a heat wave of 100+ degrees, my brand new Bosh 044 fuel pump started making an occasional grinding noise--as if a bearing was failing. Dave at KDR thinks that is highly unlikely and said it is probably a clogged fuel filter. The fuel filter is new and was put on with the pump. I dropped the fuel filter to see if the gas in it is dirty. By the time I got the filter out, all the gas had run down my dirty elbow and it was impossible to tell. The local Mazda realers do not have it in stock. So, I ordered a new one from Racing Beat as well as a FC water pump, gaskets, and new hoses (as I have a first gen water pump and something has a slight leak). It should be here by Friday. I also ordered another fuel pump. If I don't need it, I have a spare. I'm starting to learn to keep spares on hand at the track...
Since all the hotel rooms were sold out or did not allow dogs, I went and bought a tent (REI Basecamp 4), a camping gril, etc and I will be camping on the infield of Pocono with the girlfriend and the dogs. What better way to free up more time to be messing with the car? I will try to get some in-car video and if I am not too embarrassed by it (my lets call it "developing" driving skills), I will post it.
08-31-10, 11:11 AM
#239
Which filter are you using?
Front breaks: The website incorrectly sold me CT131 XP10 for the front. That would have been fine if I still had the GSL-SE front breaks. The 4 piston FC/FD caliper uses CT331. Carbotech is out of those. I placed an order on Monday. They have to make them. I was told they will ship on Thursday, so it is down to the wire.
I need to let out 1 quart of oil. No use wasting Mobile 1 with 0 miles, so I will probably catch it in a water bottle or something. Thankfully, earlier this year I bought the little oil tap that Black Dragon sells which replaces the oil drain plug. This makes it easy to take oil samples and drain excess oil. I will also recheck my trasmission oil since I am down there.
The other day during a heat wave of 100+ degrees, my brand new Bosh 044 fuel pump started making an occasional grinding noise--as if a bearing was failing. Dave at KDR thinks that is highly unlikely and said it is probably a clogged fuel filter. The fuel filter is new and was put on with the pump. I dropped the fuel filter to see if the gas in it is dirty. By the time I got the filter out, all the gas had run down my dirty elbow and it was impossible to tell. The local Mazda realers do not have it in stock. So, I ordered a new one from Racing Beat as well as a FC water pump, gaskets, and new hoses (as I have a first gen water pump and something has a slight leak). It should be here by Friday. I also ordered another fuel pump. If I don't need it, I have a spare. I'm starting to learn to keep spares on hand at the track...
Since all the hotel rooms were sold out or did not allow dogs, I went and bought a tent (REI Basecamp 4), a camping gril, etc and I will be camping on the infield of Pocono with the girlfriend and the dogs. What better way to free up more time to be messing with the car? I will try to get some in-car video and if I am not too embarrassed by it (my lets call it "developing" driving skills), I will post it.
I need to let out 1 quart of oil. No use wasting Mobile 1 with 0 miles, so I will probably catch it in a water bottle or something. Thankfully, earlier this year I bought the little oil tap that Black Dragon sells which replaces the oil drain plug. This makes it easy to take oil samples and drain excess oil. I will also recheck my trasmission oil since I am down there.
The other day during a heat wave of 100+ degrees, my brand new Bosh 044 fuel pump started making an occasional grinding noise--as if a bearing was failing. Dave at KDR thinks that is highly unlikely and said it is probably a clogged fuel filter. The fuel filter is new and was put on with the pump. I dropped the fuel filter to see if the gas in it is dirty. By the time I got the filter out, all the gas had run down my dirty elbow and it was impossible to tell. The local Mazda realers do not have it in stock. So, I ordered a new one from Racing Beat as well as a FC water pump, gaskets, and new hoses (as I have a first gen water pump and something has a slight leak). It should be here by Friday. I also ordered another fuel pump. If I don't need it, I have a spare. I'm starting to learn to keep spares on hand at the track...
Since all the hotel rooms were sold out or did not allow dogs, I went and bought a tent (REI Basecamp 4), a camping gril, etc and I will be camping on the infield of Pocono with the girlfriend and the dogs. What better way to free up more time to be messing with the car? I will try to get some in-car video and if I am not too embarrassed by it (my lets call it "developing" driving skills), I will post it.
08-31-10, 03:19 PM
#242
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???
I do not understand that question. The fuel is controlled via the fuel pressure regulator which is currently set at 35psi. The entire car is tuned at 35 psi, so the only way to take some pressure off the system is to adjust the fuel pressure. The core of the GSL-SE filter is the same as the FC and the FD--just the housing is different. As long as there is not excessive back pressure, the pump should not have a problem. During tuning, the fuel pressure was turned up to 45psi, so I know that it is flowing fine. Besides, this was not just cobbled together. This was put together by one of this countries premier rotary tuners and is a formula that has been used in countless other cars. At this point, I'm going to assume that there was something in my gas tank that got sucked into the filter or I just had bad luck with the fuel pump.
Either way, both the filter and the pump will be here before race day so I will try changing out one and then the other.
On a side note...
Lets get some more rotary representation at the track! I have never seen an FD and I have only seen one FC two times and one FB. Guys, cars are made to be driven--at the limit.
A full day of instruction and hot laps is $290 or $500 for the weekend. If that is out of your budget, you can go for one class session and one track session for $50. So, for about the price of an autocross of standing in the sun, you can drive your car *****-to-the-wall on a famous race track for 20min. If that doesn't seem like a long time, it beats the 4-7 min that you get autocrossing.
Anyway, no excuses. I want to see you there! Sign up here:
https://www.pdadrivingschool.com/index.php
I do not understand that question. The fuel is controlled via the fuel pressure regulator which is currently set at 35psi. The entire car is tuned at 35 psi, so the only way to take some pressure off the system is to adjust the fuel pressure. The core of the GSL-SE filter is the same as the FC and the FD--just the housing is different. As long as there is not excessive back pressure, the pump should not have a problem. During tuning, the fuel pressure was turned up to 45psi, so I know that it is flowing fine. Besides, this was not just cobbled together. This was put together by one of this countries premier rotary tuners and is a formula that has been used in countless other cars. At this point, I'm going to assume that there was something in my gas tank that got sucked into the filter or I just had bad luck with the fuel pump.
Either way, both the filter and the pump will be here before race day so I will try changing out one and then the other.
On a side note...
Lets get some more rotary representation at the track! I have never seen an FD and I have only seen one FC two times and one FB. Guys, cars are made to be driven--at the limit.
A full day of instruction and hot laps is $290 or $500 for the weekend. If that is out of your budget, you can go for one class session and one track session for $50. So, for about the price of an autocross of standing in the sun, you can drive your car *****-to-the-wall on a famous race track for 20min. If that doesn't seem like a long time, it beats the 4-7 min that you get autocrossing.
Anyway, no excuses. I want to see you there! Sign up here:
https://www.pdadrivingschool.com/index.php
01-11-11, 10:49 AM
#243
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Mid-winter awakening...
After the end of the race season, my car has been in the shop and I have cultivated other hobbies--neither of which is any cheaper than building this car.
The first one was vintage watches which I have been researching on watchuseek. I am now happy with what I have there. Unfortunately, I then decided to increase my wardrobe and became slightly obsessed with the style forum. A few pairs of Edward Green shoes and full canvas suits later, I am ready to get back into the rotary.
My car has been at KDR (Speed 1) since the fall. I left it there to get some carbon fiber brake ducts installed, fix an oil leak, and finish the Mariah bodywork and get the car painted the Spirit R Titanium Grey. I told Dave that there is no rush as I really don't even want the car till the snow is gone.
Anyway, I have had the need for speed lately, so I called to check on my car. They are just finishing construction of the paint booth and my car will be the first to go in.
I can't wait to drive it again and see it all one color.
The first one was vintage watches which I have been researching on watchuseek. I am now happy with what I have there. Unfortunately, I then decided to increase my wardrobe and became slightly obsessed with the style forum. A few pairs of Edward Green shoes and full canvas suits later, I am ready to get back into the rotary.
My car has been at KDR (Speed 1) since the fall. I left it there to get some carbon fiber brake ducts installed, fix an oil leak, and finish the Mariah bodywork and get the car painted the Spirit R Titanium Grey. I told Dave that there is no rush as I really don't even want the car till the snow is gone.
Anyway, I have had the need for speed lately, so I called to check on my car. They are just finishing construction of the paint booth and my car will be the first to go in.
I can't wait to drive it again and see it all one color.
01-11-11, 04:35 PM
#244
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Since you are running the hard suspension 2nd gen brakes take a look at EBC Yellow's for brake pads. Cost should be a bit cheaper than the Carbotech and they are much more rotor friendly. Even though they are a race pad they are perfectly fine cold on the street and do not eat rotors. They more than stand up to the heat of track use as well. I highly recommend running them on new rotors and not on rotors that have previously used non organic pad. If you do some research on the brand you will find some people complain about vibration and hot spots. Basically this is caused b/c the pads can't properly bed in over the non organic material on the rotor. So best to start on new rotors and then swap new pads in only when replacing with the same type of pad.
01-17-11, 09:52 AM
#245
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Since you are running the hard suspension 2nd gen brakes take a look at EBC Yellow's for brake pads. Cost should be a bit cheaper than the Carbotech and they are much more rotor friendly. Even though they are a race pad they are perfectly fine cold on the street and do not eat rotors. They more than stand up to the heat of track use as well. I highly recommend running them on new rotors and not on rotors that have previously used non organic pad. If you do some research on the brand you will find some people complain about vibration and hot spots. Basically this is caused b/c the pads can't properly bed in over the non organic material on the rotor. So best to start on new rotors and then swap new pads in only when replacing with the same type of pad.
01-18-11, 09:28 AM
#246
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03-14-11, 08:19 PM
#247
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Primer update...
Spring is in the air and paint is finally getting done.
Nemesis is almost ready to once again terrorize a road or racetrack near you.
I will post pictures of the finished product once I have them. This will have to do for now...
Nemesis is almost ready to once again terrorize a road or racetrack near you.
I will post pictures of the finished product once I have them. This will have to do for now...
