I recently pulled the original motor from my FB. I don't want or need it and would like to get it out of the garage, but before I post an ad I have some questions about selling a used rotary.
*I've heard and read that most engine rebuilders would rather start with a complete engine and do the teardown themselves. That way they can see that it rotates smoothly, where it's leaking from, etc. instead of just a box of parts.
*I also know than OE 12A housings are rare as hen's teeth so it's a big gamble buying a used motor that needs a rebuild. As the seller, I know that it ran when pulled, but the potential buyer doesn't. I would hate to buy a 12A only to find the housings and rotors were garbage.

I've only sold one engine before and it was to a friend who knew my vehicle. I guess I'm looking for tips on making a good sale that both me and the next guy can feel good about. Before anyone asks here are the F&R compression #'s...




Engine doesn't use oil or water and doesn't smoke. Should I just sell it fast as-is or open it up, so I can confirm good housing chrome and ask a little more?

Thanks for any input.

 

Personally i would sell as is. Less of a headache. If someone is looking for a running engine you have that going for you, as if you tear it apart - someone is only going to be after the housing/rotors.

You have numbers of the compression which is great, a buyer is always taking a risk.

 

You should get more $$$ for it as a running engine, and anybody that's shopping for one will know what it sounds like to confirm your test values. I would pay considerably more for a previously running motor than for one that somebody took apart to fool around with pictures of rotor housings and may have screwed so e thing up on reassembly. If it ran well before, let it run well with the next guy.

If the buyer has an issue with that, he either doesn't know what he's doing, or isn't looking for a running motor. Another buyer will be along shortly to buy your runner.

 

I agree that you should list it as it is and as complete as possible. The compression numbers are a great thing but they need to be taken with the engine at normal operating temperature and the throttle fully depressed. Not doing so can change the numbers.

 

The engine was fully warmed up after a drive but I didn't know about the "throttle fully depressed" part. These #'s were just turning the key, no pedal. NOTE - the instruction provided with the Tester don't say anything about throttle position.

Thanks for the input guys. I'm going to run an add in the classifieds, as well as the local Craig's for the engine. Also my bro-n-law is in the PR rotary bracket racing scene and has always told me Everybody wants turbo 12A builds, not the later 13B's. So I'll have him put some feelers out.