i mean BONE stock, nothing added.

Also, what are the consequences of running to long without changing them?

 

There is no time interval for changing spake plugs per say. They need to be changed when the electrodes are no longer good or the internal resistance is not in spec which can cause weak spark. Spark plugs can be cleaned and used for a long time if the other maintenance is done regularly. If it makes you feel better, just fork over the $30-$35 and buy new ones. Now if your having issues starting the car, a new set of plugs is not a bad idea just to rule them out.

 

every couple of years is good with regular driving. i would recommend using ONLY NGK BR8EQ-14 spark plugs. Mazda recommends replacing the plugs every 30 months or 30K miles.

 

I'm pretty sure that is what's in there. The boxes of the plugs are in my glove box, but i'm about 99% sure that is what's in it. I had the guy at the auto shop recommend i run a little hotter plug, i think it was br7eq. he said it ran hotter to help "combat" carbon build up. i said no thanks, i'll stick to star tron, and a lead foot every now and then to keep carbon at bay. I think i've got about 7 thousand miles on my car, so i'm still good to go then if it's 30 thousand!

 

It's good to at least take them out and look every now and then. Then you'll know how carboned up they may (not) be.

BR8EQ-14 are correct. There is also the ND version, but I don't know the number.

 

I like my NGK RE7C and RE9B plugs in my 1st gen...but be prepared for $20/ea

 

factory interval, like Dave says is 30K/2 years. you can certainly change them more often than that, but you shouldn't go longer.

if you race/drive it really hard, you should probably pull them every oil change, and just change em when the gap gets too big

the service schedule is in the service manual, which is here http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rx7manual#firstgen
the cliff notes are basically that every 15k you should be changing the air and fuel filter, and lubing the locks and hinges. every 30k it gets that, plus spark plugs, coolant, brake fluid, and trans and diff oils.

belts/bearings/hoses/cap/rotor/wires get looked at at every service, and replaced as needed.

 

Do you guys recommend using Anti-Seize grease on the threads?

 

I installed a set of ND plugs in a 12A today. They seem to work ok.

 

i've seen where too much causes problems, so just use a little bit

 

^Agree, too much and it clogs the threads, but you definitely want to use at least a little to keep them from seizing in there.

 

Anti-sieze: another yes from me, I just put a thin stripe (thread-depth only) down one side. Never had a plug-removal issue with the -7; having to cope with a stuck rear-bank plug on the wife's FWD V6 made me a believer.

 

The stripe.

 

i do not use anti seize on the spark plug threads. i prefer a small amount of bearing grease. it comes off when needed and is not super thick like anti seize and does the same job. i've been using it for years and it works great.

 

i have a ? about plugs i go to my auto parts store (advanced auto) and they tell me there is to kinds of plugs leading and trailing just like the to diffrent rotors and in my dads car he ended up putting leading plugs in the leading rotor and trailing plugs in the trailing rotor and he swar it ran better than when he had them all the same so im just wondering whats the diffrence is and what should i be running in my 85 gsl se i dont know what combo i have now but i know there ngk but i always have problems with it flooding so im just wondering if this is why thanks for any advice you could give

 

Same plugs leading and trailing.

 

and- DON'T over-tighten on the install!
I hand thread mine in tight, then 1/4 turn with the socket....

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

so should i run leading in leading rotor and trailing in trialing rotor just because or it really doesnt matter at all and i can use any kind any were? thanks

 

If you Q is "same plugs in ALL holes?" - yes. Same plug in each of 4 holes. If your Q is regarding the LEADS, these MUST originate from the correct dizzy cap point to the corresponding plug; ie Fr-leading-to-Fr. leading, etc. Its all marked on the CAP and the housings...

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska