food7373

iTrader: (2)

So I was just thinking the other day, how much is my car worth? I can't use KBB so I think you guys might know. Here's the list.

1979 RX7 (unknown miles)

GOOD

ENGINE
1983 12A engine
Headers to pre-silencer to muffler
Mikuni Carb
NGK plugs/wires
MSD Blaster 2 Coils
Coolant hoses and T-stat recently replaced
FC water pump
Cap and rotor recently replaced
Battery recently replaced
Holley fuel pump
Removed A/C (good and bad)
Possibly ported?

DIFF/TRANS
1983 GSL rear w/ disc brakes
6 puck clutch
Trans recently replaced w/ good trans
New street performance brakes
Starter recently replaced

INTERIOR
Stripped out interior
Personal Steering wheel

BODY
Mariah Mode One body kit
Weld Racing Wheels
Glass Sunroof


BAD

Small electrical issues (soon to be fixed)
Body needs work (one major crack, and small rust scattered around)
Needs a carb tune-up (but does work very good now)
Paint isn't in great condition





Thanks for the input guys. I'll add anything if it comes to my mind.

Swivel

That looks suspiciously like the yellow '79 that was sitting at the Autozone in Dover NJ for a few months with a for-sale sign in it?

If it *is* the same one, I would have barely given you $1200 - $1500 for it -- due to the stripped interior and wheels.

If not, please dis-regard this post.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Start here https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-general-discussion-207/how-much-my-sa-worth-888121/ and then
subtract for no interior and the widebody, unless its immaculate, with
no cracks or seams.

mikeric

iTrader: (20)

I hate to be a bearer of bad tidings, but "small rust scattered around" does not really exist with these cars--especially a car that spent time in the north. Either it is rust free or there is significant rust. Body work and rust repair is a very significant cost and will run between $2k-$6k depending on how bad it is and possibly not make the car worth it for a future owner.

Why are you looking to sell? I'm keeping mine forever...

food7373

iTrader: (2)

I do not believe it was, it was located at a shop in York, Pa for some time I believe.

food7373

iTrader: (2)

There is small splots of rust scattered like a small spot at the sunroof, on the fender at one spot. I'll grab some pics to show you guys the rust. I do plan on keeping it for a long time, even if it means it might have to sit in a barn if I go away. Hopefully that won't happen. I would like to plan on doing a complete restore once I am able to when I'm older, or as soon as I can.

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

The biggest problem is that most of the parts on it are aftermarket. Surprisingly enough these cars (along with most other classics) are worth way more if they are in factory condition. For some reason few people are able to see the value in modifications when they are shopping around for a car. I doubt with all the money I just put in to my car that anyone would be willing to buy it for what I've spent this year, never mind what I have spent since I bought it.

Banzai

iTrader: (13)

Your car is worth every penny you want to spend on it. Problem is, the next guy will want to zero out the ODO and start over. What additional you've spent rarely gets figured into the equation. Funny really, but the most transferable value with cars is to maintain them but at the same time, leave them alone.

As the saying goes, "It's only original once" Seems as the circle of life turns, things always come full circle to the begining again and we find ourselves placing greater value on things as they once were. Moddified is fun, cool and just our natural tendency. But unmolested and stock will bring the most across the block.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

It's funny how "rarity" works, isn't it? I mean, a clean factory-stock 30-year-old car is considered 'rare' and therefore valuable because there are only a limited number left in good condition... yet a one-of-a-kind customized build, unless it was done by a famous-name modder (like a George Barris, for example), is usually worth less even though it is unique, only one like it.

Some of it comes from personal taste; what I may find to be personally appealing in a modification may not match anyone else's tastes.

Part of it comes from concerns about the quality of mod-work; you never really know how good a job of prep was done, or what the mod may have been intended to hide/correct/gloss over.

And for some people, the bulk of the value in modding their car comes not from having the mod, but from the satisfaction of having done the work themselves. And that's something that just can't be transferred in selling price.

mikeric

iTrader: (20)

For me, the bulk of my value comes from driving the snot out of it and beating newer and more expensive cars at the track--Whohoo!

Take that Corvettes, M5s, Porches, and S2000s! Its a '84.

NAVILES16V

iTrader: (2)

I paid $3500 three months ago, for my mint three owner(all records kept) 91K mile, bone stock 1985 RX7 GS. I have a lot of mods planned, but none(besides the radio install) is irreversible. I am just going to do bolt ons. One day it'll be really cool to have a bone stock RX7, and I want it to be able to be returned to stock. I am looking for a slightly less perfect RX7 to have fun with. I want to do a 13BT swap...and so much more.

Swivel

I hear you. My '83 is so nice, I want to keep it all stock. Unfortunately I also really want to modify an FB. So far my wife isn't buying the idea that we need 2 FBs. I'm actually not sure how I managed the FB along side with the miata. I'll probably end up with a full exhaust on the FB, mostly to get rid of the 3 feet worth of horrifically inefficient catalysts. I'll probably end up with suspension bits as well, since all the bushings are pretty dry-rotten at this point, and the shocks are a bit tired.

Both of these, really fall into long-term wear category -- as long as keep the original stuff on a shelf, I think I'll be okay with it.

NAVILES16V

iTrader: (2)

Yep, I have planned, a GSL-SE Suspension swap, with lowering springs and upgraded shocks, all new bushings, brake lines, master, etc. For power, just a new carb setup(Weber, Mikuni, OER, pretty much whatever I find) and full exhaust(probably just get the mazdatrix streetport system). The stock clutch grabs real good, have no real desire to upgrade it.