fuel system question. mystery component.
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
fuel system question. mystery component.
What is the little plastic knick knack between the fuel pump and the carb? It's back by the fuel pump itself. Has a in and out flow. I'm assuming a pressure regulator?
#2
I actually own Rotaries
iTrader: (40)
sounds like your referring to the check valve
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Poster6 (09-03-20)
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Poster6 (09-04-20)
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks. I never thought about a check valve. Its tanks to fuel filter to pump to the white check valve to the carb. Thanks guys.
I'm relocating my pump to the engine bay because I dont like having to lay down to screw with it and the filters that may or may not get plugged. Car had black goo in it and I flushed it all out(maybe). Ha
I'm relocating my pump to the engine bay because I dont like having to lay down to screw with it and the filters that may or may not get plugged. Car had black goo in it and I flushed it all out(maybe). Ha
#7
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Thanks. I never thought about a check valve. Its tanks to fuel filter to pump to the white check valve to the carb. Thanks guys.
I'm relocating my pump to the engine bay because I dont like having to lay down to screw with it and the filters that may or may not get plugged. Car had black goo in it and I flushed it all out(maybe). Ha
I'm relocating my pump to the engine bay because I dont like having to lay down to screw with it and the filters that may or may not get plugged. Car had black goo in it and I flushed it all out(maybe). Ha
For most applications, the OEM pump and filter cannot be beat. Sounds like you may have fuel tank problems that aren't really going to go away on their own.
A clean tank, new OEM pump, and OEM filter, should last another 40 years and won't give you fuel pressure problems. Many aftermarket setups can run too high of a fuel pressure for the stock Nikki, and a fuel pump that far away from the tank could end up burning out really quickly. .
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#8
Slowly getting there...
iTrader: (1)
That was my thought too. The oem pump, and probably most NA fuel pumps, is designed to have the tank over it, gravity feeding it. And then it delivers the head pressure to push it to the engine. Move that same pump up front, and probably higher, and you're forcing it to suck fuel all that distance. It probably wasn't designed for that and will burn out quick, as mentioned.
I'd consult the manufacturer before spending money. Maybe call Summit's tech line. Tell them how much fuel pressure you need and where you want to place the pump. I just don't want you to waste your money (and time).
I'd consult the manufacturer before spending money. Maybe call Summit's tech line. Tell them how much fuel pressure you need and where you want to place the pump. I just don't want you to waste your money (and time).
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Poster6 (09-08-20)
#10
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#12
Senior Member
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I think..
-Drop tank, inspect and see what you are dealing with. Can remove sender or the top cover depending on what year and look inside.
-Tank might need to be properly dipped, cleaned, and coated.
-Become friends with your local Mazda dealership parts guy and order a new pump and filter. They should arrive in a few days and are not expensive.
-Source proper metric fuel hose. The best I have found is from Belmetric. Replace all hose on the car and clamps as required. The standard auto store stuff is imperial diameters for American cars and not quite correct.
Should run another 30-40 years and not give you any issues.
I went through the hassle of an aftermarket pump, relay and fuel pressure regulator setup on my car and it is not worth the time,effort, or extra money unless you have fuel flow needs above that of the stock pump. I even had to run a new diameter return hardline to achieve target fuel pressure.
-Drop tank, inspect and see what you are dealing with. Can remove sender or the top cover depending on what year and look inside.
-Tank might need to be properly dipped, cleaned, and coated.
-Become friends with your local Mazda dealership parts guy and order a new pump and filter. They should arrive in a few days and are not expensive.
-Source proper metric fuel hose. The best I have found is from Belmetric. Replace all hose on the car and clamps as required. The standard auto store stuff is imperial diameters for American cars and not quite correct.
Should run another 30-40 years and not give you any issues.
I went through the hassle of an aftermarket pump, relay and fuel pressure regulator setup on my car and it is not worth the time,effort, or extra money unless you have fuel flow needs above that of the stock pump. I even had to run a new diameter return hardline to achieve target fuel pressure.
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Poster6 (09-12-20)
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