Hey all,

I was curious if the wiring pictured below would actually work or not. I’m trying to keep everything stock at least for now, and was hoping to use the wiring harness plugs, but they’ve been cut. If you guys think it’ll work then I’ll leave it for now, and if it won’t work could someone send me a picture of the plugs on their distributor and what part of the harness they come from? I figured I’d have to reattach the cut plugs if this current setup doesn’t work, but I don’t know and can’t find where the cut wires are.

Here’s the current wiring:




And these are the cut plugs I have (I know the blue belongs to the distributor but I’m uncertain about the others):



Thanks in advance,
Pascal

 

Haha okay, did some simple research, and found that someone just did the 81(?) to 85 dizzy swap, and so now all I need to know is if they’ve wired it correctly… And I really don’t know anything still, but RadPotential mentioned the 81-85 dizzy swap (and I read about that a little bit on the forum) and how the coil resistors can just be removed after that, along with upgrading to 12v coils? I can’t remember everything, and honestly I’m so new to this that I’d really appreciate any help and advice on this lol. As mentioned in the initial post, I wanna keep the car as stock as possible, but if I seriously just need to do away with a thing or two then I’m good with that

 

I don’t have the wiring or my car in front of me but it sounds like your on the right track, yank (but don’t throw out) your 9v coils and resistors and replace with 12v ones (I got some local part store ones) this wiring is also relatively simple and the colors/locations also mentioned by Rad, but always confirm with a multi meter and a FSM to know for sure if it’s key-on 12v/constant 12v/ground. Also those old igniters(side of the distributor) go bad, had me thinking I messed something up. Hardest part is deciding how to cleanly tap/splice into the stock wiring. Use a timing light to check timing on leading and trailing when you’re done too.

 

Hey, so sorry for the ultra-delay in my response, I got pretty sick and didn’t have time to get out to the car lol.

Ah, well the 9v coils never really came with my car… when I got the car it already had the electronic ignition swap, the 12v coils, and the new wiring (I recently checked and they’re 12v coils, and do require 12v resistors. Speaking of which, where did you source yours from? I’m new to all of this and am still trying to find my way around haha). Also, when you mentioned splicing into the wiring harness, I was wondering if I have to, or if the janky wiring that came with the car would work. They’re the light-blue see-through wires hooked up to the ignitors. If you want I attempted to record their path for more clarity lolll.

Thanks for the help!

Oh and here’s the video. I tried my best to distinguish between each wire by separating them as you can see in the video Also, I will be buying new 12v coils (whatever you’d recommend, whether resistor-less or not) as they both have stripped threads from someone putting standard nuts onto the metric stud/neck 🤦‍♂️

 

The electronic ignition doesn't have coil resistors like the points 1979 system.

 

Ohh, thank you. I couldn't figure out whether it did or didn't need them, as RadPotential didn't seem to clarify. So all you need are the 12v coils, those wires running straight to the ignitors, and that's it?
Thank you again

 

Yes - take a look at the 1985 wiring diagram for the coils/distributor here: Foxed.ca

 

Great, thanks so much