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Broken OMP bolt

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Old Oct 27, 2022 | 10:15 AM
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Broken OMP bolt

Major ugh. Naturally, my fault.
Any thoughts on how I can extract this bolt?
I replaced the gaskets in the OMP - successfully, I felt. While replacing the OMP, with a new gasket, I found a slight bit of oil seeping from it. Thinking the bolts weren't tight enough, I gave each bolt a little additional snug and SNAP - I broke off the top bolt.
I don't have a welder - haven't welded anything since school 30+ years ago - so I wouldn't really trust my ability to weld a nut on the end of the bolt anyway.
The water pump cover inlet (I think) is also in the way.
So ... any idea how I can get this off? I'd like to avoid removing the water pump and water pump housing; but that may be unavoidable. It's a pretty tight space.



IF I do have to remove the water pump and housing, should I replace the water pump at this time? It's a 1985, S, has about 85,000 miles on it.
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Old Oct 27, 2022 | 02:18 PM
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A screw extractor requires drilling a little into it first, not sure if there's enough room for that.
I stripped those threads one time and had enough of a straight shot to insert a helicoil.

I'd first try twisting the little bit that's sticking out, use something like needle nose vice grips or end cutters.
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Old Oct 27, 2022 | 02:50 PM
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A welder can weld a nut to it. The good news is that since the font cover is aluminum, the weld wont stick to it.
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Old Oct 27, 2022 | 05:04 PM
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What about some sort of small right angle attachment for a drill? I think Ive seen some that are cable driven by a dremel etc. Could be just enough space to get a small hole and thread in the extractor that j-tso mentions. Just don't break the extractor in the bolt.... I've been there.
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Old Oct 27, 2022 | 06:05 PM
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How about a nut and some J-B Weld?

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Old Oct 29, 2022 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by RX7_Renesis
How about a nut and some J-B Weld?
JBWeld won't hold up to torque.
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Old Oct 30, 2022 | 08:00 AM
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Oh I got another idea... what about slotting it with a dremel cutoff to try to use a slotted screwdriver. Could maybe access it with a small flathead bit on a ratchet.
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Old Oct 30, 2022 | 09:01 PM
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Woot! JBWeld (Marine) to the rescue!
Initially, I tried to tap that little piece of the bolt that was sticking out in a counter-clock wise direction, but no dice. I used the Dremel and try to slot it, but still no real luck.
I sprayed some WD-40 on the broken bolt, let it rest over night. Mixed up a TINY bit of JB Weld Marine and stuck a nut on it. Let that cure out for probably 30 hours or so, prayed, and then very slowly turned it out.
I am amazed this came out. Thank you all for the suggestions!

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Old Oct 30, 2022 | 09:20 PM
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So another question - IF you were going to replace your OMP, would you buy the rebuilt on from Atkins or spring for the brand new one?
My car has around 85k miles on it and is mostly all stock. (My OMP is actually cracked - I dropped it during all of this)
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Old Oct 31, 2022 | 05:53 AM
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I think either the rebuilt pump or a new one would be fine. They aren't heavy wear components so a rebuilt omp would likely be fine if you're trying to save a few bucks. Also, nice job on getting the broken bolt out!!
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Old Oct 31, 2022 | 07:38 AM
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Pineapple Racing sells an OMP rebuild kit with instructional DVD . I did this a while back.
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Old Oct 31, 2022 | 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
I think either the rebuilt pump or a new one would be fine. They aren't heavy wear components so a rebuilt omp would likely be fine if you're trying to save a few bucks. Also, nice job on getting the broken bolt out!!
Thank you - I was thrilled the bolt came out! (who wouldn't be?) I was leaning with the rebuilt one, too.

Originally Posted by j_tso
I did a rebuild of my OMP, which is exactly what started this whole saga. But during that process, I dropped it and that caused the body of the OMP to crack. I guess I dropped it "just right".
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Old Oct 31, 2022 | 08:56 AM
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So going at this again once the replacement OMP arrives.
Do I only use the OMP gasket, or should I also use some sort of sealant here? If so, between the OMP and the gasket, or between the gasket and the engine body? Or both? Of skip the gasket and just use some sort of sealer? thansks!
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Old Nov 1, 2022 | 05:44 AM
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You should just use the gasket with no sealant. Mazda designed their gaskets to be used without sealer. You will also want new copper crush washers for the lines as well.
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Old Nov 2, 2022 | 09:12 PM
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Appreciate the insight. I decided to order a new OMP, rather than rebuilt. Also ordered a spare gasket, belts, and I'm using two new bolts for the OMP - ditched the old bolts. I figure years of hot/cold cycles have probably had their toll on these two bolts. Well, the one bolt, since I broke one. Anywho ... hopefully back on the road soon.
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Old Nov 3, 2022 | 05:48 AM
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Sounds like a good plan. Can't hurt to have spare parts as well. I keep a huge stockpile of parts for my 7's.
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Old Nov 8, 2022 | 06:30 AM
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Welp!
After successfully removing the broken bolt, I've replaced the OMP with a new one purchased from Atkins (still amazes me the odd parts that you can get new). Replaced the belts, too.
Took a 206 mile roundtrip with in on Saturday without any issues.


Probably the cleanest part of the engine now.

Also replaced the Oil Sending Unit. First cold start after putting everything back on.



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Old Nov 8, 2022 | 08:18 AM
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I couldn't resist doing a bit of editing to your last photo.


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