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Body Side Moldings?

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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 11:46 PM
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Body Side Moldings?

What would remain if you remove all the ugly rubber molding around the body? I dont want to remove it off if it leaves anything really difficult to bondo over .
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 12:19 AM
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old adhesive .. can take a while and patience to get it all off ... there is also the chance of peeling the paint off ... I've seen it happen
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 07:25 AM
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So it just peels off? I'm repainting anyways. I just wasn't sure if these had clips leaving holes to fill. I think the blue car without them here looks so much cleaner
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 08:18 AM
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Take care removing them...they have some value you know!
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 03:51 PM
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I had the one under the gas cap peeling off for the longest time and finally pulled it. It took off a piece of paint and I'm not too keen on pulling them off unless you're doing a repaint. I don't know whether I'll take mine off or not when I repaint in a month or two

13x, aren't you on your third paint job? Beautiful color by the way
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by jbherri2
Take care removing them...they have some value you know!
I'll be careful probably use an exacto . You really think they have value? Like what should i get $ for them if they're good condition?
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by lindahlish
I had the one under the gas cap peeling off for the longest time and finally pulled it. It took off a piece of paint and I'm not too keen on pulling them off unless you're doing a repaint. I don't know whether I'll take mine off or not when I repaint in a month or two

13x, aren't you on your third paint job? Beautiful color by the way
taking them off and replacing after painting will give it a more "finished look"

Yes 3rd and thank you the goal was to bring it back to it's original color of Daytona Blue

Originally Posted by Adam12A
I'll be careful probably use an exacto . You really think they have value? Like what should i get $ for them if they're good condition?

Ok perhaps a heat gun? perhaps letting some 3M general adhesive removal soak and take your time ... perhaps following up with a pinstripe removal wheel ... depending on condition of the molding will decide value ... check mazdatrix and price out the molding for the whole car I beleive it's totals to abotu 1k ... but there are products out there that can be used to refurb the old molding and make like new
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 13x
taking them off and replacing after painting will give it a more "finished look"

Yes 3rd and thank you the goal was to bring it back to it's original color of Daytona Blue




Ok perhaps a heat gun? perhaps letting some 3M general adhesive removal soak and take your time ... perhaps following up with a pinstripe removal wheel ... depending on condition of the molding will decide value ... check mazdatrix and price out the molding for the whole car I beleive it's totals to abotu 1k ... but there are products out there that can be used to refurb the old molding and make like new
Thanks I'll try that. I really like the look without so much more. Makes it look more like a Z car or just more pre 80's era. The moldings make me think, cheap, similar to how the stock interior makes me feel. Atleast in my GS, the seats are okay though I guess. Moldings are gone I'll refurbish and put them up for sale for cheap
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Adam12A
...I really like the look without so much more. Makes it look more like a Z car or just more pre 80's era. The moldings make me think, cheap, similar to how the stock interior makes me feel...
Amen.

IMHO the car looks much "cleaner" w/o them; I think they also really date the car.

Worst of all combinations: brown exterior w/pinstriping, brown stock interior, louvers on the hatch, and mouldings. Might as well be wearing a mullet, moustache, sideburns and aviator sunglasses to boot.
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 08:39 PM
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well in my current sig pic are the two cars in my garage ... I think it works both way
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 13x
well in my current sig pic are the two cars in my garage ... I think it works both way
With the white it does seem to throw some contrast on the scheme of the car. Both your cars look amazing BTW
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 12:20 PM
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they are just taped on from the factory, no clips. i'm not sure what they are worth used, but i bought a set back in the day for a car i painted and they were expensive new
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Adam12A
With the white it does seem to throw some contrast on the scheme of the car. Both your cars look amazing BTW
well thanks, they need work but photo well lol ... there are products out there that you can make then black (the molding) again when they have that crisp black look they look so much better

oh and if you look closely the white one has a pink rotor on the back it's my wifes ....

Originally Posted by j9fd3s
they are just taped on from the factory, no clips. i'm not sure what they are worth used, but i bought a set back in the day for a car i painted and they were expensive new
yeppers all the ones I've peeled had two way tape ... but has seen ppl remove paints ... last was an FC clean white car then had coin size sections where the paint came off with the molding .... Oh I looked at the prices for new and why I use the tecnique fo refinishing ... whats better then NOS? NNOS? a fraction of eh cost lol
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 07:28 PM
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I use an air knife or my piano wire that is on T-handles to remove body moldings at work. For the left over double sided tape I use an eraser wheel, just don't stay in one stop for too long of it will get too hot and remove paint.
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 07:34 PM
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I like the wire idea probably better for the FB molding that is not "in" the body line ... but sure as hell I'll steal the idea for next time lol
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 10:32 PM
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I asked a body mechanic friend of mine about removing the body moldings on the sides of my 7, and he said don't do it. They are there for a reason to protect the body from getting hit by other peoples doors and grocery carts etc etc. So if you want to keep painting and touching uP your car every time it gets hit, then by all means "do it".
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by rotaryjunkee
I asked a body mechanic friend of mine about removing the body moldings on the sides of my 7, and he said don't do it. They are there for a reason to protect the body from getting hit by other peoples doors and grocery carts etc etc. So if you want to keep painting and touching uP your car every time it gets hit, then by all means "do it".
I don't how much help they will be nowadays since more cars have the furthest edge on the doors stick out higher, not to mention SUVs.
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 01:34 AM
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I'm not the type to park my baby in a lot unless I can take up 2 slots like a jerk IDC. I removed them already hot air gun and a knife. Don't care about paint it's already jacked. Preparing the car now for a raw metal transperant black clear paint.
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 01:35 AM
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Does anyone here agree that the type 1 rear liscence plate looks better than the type 2?
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 07:30 PM
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lol side by side .... hmmmm

S1 no hiding your plate number ... S2 little more difficult to see .... that may be a good thing
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 07:54 PM
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That could be true I guess. I don't get too crazy in daily driving . Besides mine has classic car plates which in Washington means you don't ever have to register again. It's cool to show off the plate now that it says "Classic Car"
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 10:06 PM
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lol the SA has classic vehicle plates ... rock em if you got em lol
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 12:45 AM
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https://www.rx7club.com/attachments/...lue-sas-a1-jpg
This is the mod I'm making to mine. Anyone know if I could fit an SA bumper on FB?
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