Body Side Moldings?
What would remain if you remove all the ugly rubber molding around the body? I dont want to remove it off if it leaves anything really difficult to bondo over .
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old adhesive .. can take a while and patience to get it all off ... there is also the chance of peeling the paint off ... I've seen it happen
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So it just peels off? I'm repainting anyways. I just wasn't sure if these had clips leaving holes to fill. I think the blue car without them here looks so much cleaner
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Take care removing them...they have some value you know!
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I had the one under the gas cap peeling off for the longest time and finally pulled it. It took off a piece of paint and I'm not too keen on pulling them off unless you're doing a repaint. I don't know whether I'll take mine off or not when I repaint in a month or two
13x, aren't you on your third paint job? :biggrin: Beautiful color by the way |
Originally Posted by jbherri2
(Post 11368736)
Take care removing them...they have some value you know!
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Originally Posted by lindahlish
(Post 11369185)
I had the one under the gas cap peeling off for the longest time and finally pulled it. It took off a piece of paint and I'm not too keen on pulling them off unless you're doing a repaint. I don't know whether I'll take mine off or not when I repaint in a month or two
13x, aren't you on your third paint job? :biggrin: Beautiful color by the way Yes 3rd and thank you the goal was to bring it back to it's original color of Daytona Blue
Originally Posted by Adam12A
(Post 11369318)
I'll be careful probably use an exacto . You really think they have value? Like what should i get $ for them if they're good condition?
Ok perhaps a heat gun? perhaps letting some 3M general adhesive removal soak and take your time ... perhaps following up with a pinstripe removal wheel ... depending on condition of the molding will decide value ... check mazdatrix and price out the molding for the whole car I beleive it's totals to abotu 1k ... but there are products out there that can be used to refurb the old molding and make like new |
Originally Posted by 13x
(Post 11369352)
taking them off and replacing after painting will give it a more "finished look"
Yes 3rd and thank you the goal was to bring it back to it's original color of Daytona Blue Ok perhaps a heat gun? perhaps letting some 3M general adhesive removal soak and take your time ... perhaps following up with a pinstripe removal wheel ... depending on condition of the molding will decide value ... check mazdatrix and price out the molding for the whole car I beleive it's totals to abotu 1k ... but there are products out there that can be used to refurb the old molding and make like new |
Originally Posted by Adam12A
(Post 11369410)
...I really like the look without so much more. Makes it look more like a Z car or just more pre 80's era. The moldings make me think, cheap, similar to how the stock interior makes me feel...
IMHO the car looks much "cleaner" w/o them; I think they also really date the car. Worst of all combinations: brown exterior w/pinstriping, brown stock interior, louvers on the hatch, and mouldings. Might as well be wearing a mullet, moustache, sideburns and aviator sunglasses to boot. |
well in my current sig pic are the two cars in my garage ... I think it works both way
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Originally Posted by 13x
(Post 11369450)
well in my current sig pic are the two cars in my garage ... I think it works both way
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they are just taped on from the factory, no clips. i'm not sure what they are worth used, but i bought a set back in the day for a car i painted and they were expensive new
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Originally Posted by Adam12A
(Post 11369724)
With the white it does seem to throw some contrast on the scheme of the car. Both your cars look amazing BTW
oh and if you look closely the white one has a pink rotor on the back it's my wifes ....
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 11369993)
they are just taped on from the factory, no clips. i'm not sure what they are worth used, but i bought a set back in the day for a car i painted and they were expensive new
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I use an air knife or my piano wire that is on T-handles to remove body moldings at work. For the left over double sided tape I use an eraser wheel, just don't stay in one stop for too long of it will get too hot and remove paint.
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I like the wire idea probably better for the FB molding that is not "in" the body line ... but sure as hell I'll steal the idea for next time lol
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I asked a body mechanic friend of mine about removing the body moldings on the sides of my 7, and he said don't do it. They are there for a reason to protect the body from getting hit by other peoples doors and grocery carts etc etc. So if you want to keep painting and touching uP your car every time it gets hit, then by all means "do it".
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Originally Posted by rotaryjunkee
(Post 11370536)
I asked a body mechanic friend of mine about removing the body moldings on the sides of my 7, and he said don't do it. They are there for a reason to protect the body from getting hit by other peoples doors and grocery carts etc etc. So if you want to keep painting and touching uP your car every time it gets hit, then by all means "do it".
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I'm not the type to park my baby in a lot unless I can take up 2 slots like a jerk IDC. I removed them already hot air gun and a knife. Don't care about paint it's already jacked. Preparing the car now for a raw metal transperant black clear paint.
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Does anyone here agree that the type 1 rear liscence plate looks better than the type 2?
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lol side by side .... hmmmm
S1 no hiding your plate number ... S2 little more difficult to see .... that may be a good thing |
That could be true I guess. I don't get too crazy in daily driving . Besides mine has classic car plates which in Washington means you don't ever have to register again. It's cool to show off the plate now that it says "Classic Car"
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lol the SA has classic vehicle plates ... rock em if you got em lol
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https://www.rx7club.com/attachments/...lue-sas-a1-jpg
This is the mod I'm making to mine. Anyone know if I could fit an SA bumper on FB? |
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