Black out tape?
#1
1 mo gen.
Thread Starter
Black out tape?
Anyone ever try it for that tired looking chrome paint that comes off around the windshield???? Sure would be a lot easier than paint and I'm all about not being out in 100 degree heat and humidity longer than I have to be. Yeah I'm looking for the easy way out. Lol
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#3
1 mo gen.
Thread Starter
Well shoot. Any other easy solutions? Other than waiting til October when it gets down to the chilly 80's here when u can actually work outside. Heck I washed my car at 2am last weekend so as to avoid the hell that is miss humidity --and ain't nobody got time for dat. Lol
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#4
1st-Class Engine Janitor
iTrader: (15)
I've used the tape before; it's okay for a while. It holds up for a couple years usually, if you avoid blasting it with a high-pressure washer. But as CyBird says, if the surface isn't clean and smooth, it will show rough spots & it also won't stick well to unclean surfaces.
Best solution I've found is to sand the trim smooth with fine paper, clean thoroughly, then prime with etching primer and paint with duplicolor's "Trim Black" paint. The prep is the hard part (sanding, masking), the paint goes on easily & smoothly, dries very fast, and it lasts for several years.
Best solution I've found is to sand the trim smooth with fine paper, clean thoroughly, then prime with etching primer and paint with duplicolor's "Trim Black" paint. The prep is the hard part (sanding, masking), the paint goes on easily & smoothly, dries very fast, and it lasts for several years.
#5
1 mo gen.
Thread Starter
I bet it makes a huge diff. Dd if u ever go cross country this way I wanna see that prize winner. I have a small honey due list for u dude. Ha
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#6
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
I've used the tape before; it's okay for a while. It holds up for a couple years usually, if you avoid blasting it with a high-pressure washer. But as CyBird says, if the surface isn't clean and smooth, it will show rough spots & it also won't stick well to unclean surfaces.
Best solution I've found is to sand the trim smooth with fine paper, clean thoroughly, then prime with etching primer and paint with duplicolor's "Trim Black" paint. The prep is the hard part (sanding, masking), the paint goes on easily & smoothly, dries very fast, and it lasts for several years.
Best solution I've found is to sand the trim smooth with fine paper, clean thoroughly, then prime with etching primer and paint with duplicolor's "Trim Black" paint. The prep is the hard part (sanding, masking), the paint goes on easily & smoothly, dries very fast, and it lasts for several years.
cause I figured it would do well in the Carolina sun and it would fade a bit anyway
and look just about right. Both things seems to be true. Its been on there for a
couple of years now. Heres pics from when I did it and one from last year at DGRR.
Oh and thats Ray Green in the car with me going through the dragon. Good times!
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#8
RX for fun
iTrader: (13)
Ditto, I did mine except the black I used was the gloss black hi temp engine paint
cause I figured it would do well in the Carolina sun and it would fade a bit anyway
and look just about right. Both things seems to be true. Its been on there for a
couple of years now. Heres pics from when I did it and one from last year at DGRR.
Oh and thats Ray Green in the car with me going through the dragon. Good times!
#11
RX HVN
iTrader: (2)
I powder-coated mine a satin black. About 6 yrs ago. Still near-new, no chips, no fade. You will need what is called a "windshield clip-kit" specific to your FB (SA slightly diff am told). These kits can prob be ordered thru a glass shop (they come with new windshields). There is almost _always_ these kits FS on ebay for about $13.
I am mentioning this because you WILL break some/all of the clips on removal. They are sort of designed as 1-use items. You just need to keep track of the order you need to remove them (top, sides, bottom IIRC) and keep an eye on some of the little rubber "dums" that fit under the moldings at some points. These are unobtainium now.
I am wondering if that amazing spray-on rubberized stuff I see people painting their WHOLE CAR with would work here?? Have caught a couple of youtube vids on this and the stuff is pretty amazing. Not sure you can get the satin-look you want for the moldings, but this stuff seems easy to put on, very durable, and literally just peels off when you want to remove it. Crazy.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
I am mentioning this because you WILL break some/all of the clips on removal. They are sort of designed as 1-use items. You just need to keep track of the order you need to remove them (top, sides, bottom IIRC) and keep an eye on some of the little rubber "dums" that fit under the moldings at some points. These are unobtainium now.
I am wondering if that amazing spray-on rubberized stuff I see people painting their WHOLE CAR with would work here?? Have caught a couple of youtube vids on this and the stuff is pretty amazing. Not sure you can get the satin-look you want for the moldings, but this stuff seems easy to put on, very durable, and literally just peels off when you want to remove it. Crazy.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
#12
1 mo gen.
Thread Starter
I think u are referring to dip your car. I've played around with it but I think ur still gonna have to prep it like paint so might as well go ahead and paint it. I was looking for a easy way out and I don't think there is one. I did my rims just ddnt like the color I chose so I took it off. It does come off pretty easy. Just put a lot of thin coats and it will peal right off. I guess if u want to try a color before painting to see if u like it - it would be the way to go.
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