cordius

http://westernmass.craigslist.org/car/503265102.html

He only wants 1400. Could be stupid, could need work. He doesn't say. If I go look at this, what do I look for? What could I take pictures of if I go look at this? Would it be worth it to buy it, because it sounds kind of cheap for what it is?

Anyway, thanks guys.

Tom Deutsch

"Would it be worth it to buy it?"
...depends on how bad you've got it for an early Rx-7. If these ever become collector cars, the 79s will be worth more than most because it was the first year.
98k is low mileage on these cars, from what I've seen. Other folks on this site can tell you some of the mechanical peculiarities you might run into on first-year models (called SA around here).
Look for rust where you would on most old cars: sills, bottoms of doors, base of the rear side window. If it runs, shifts and drives well, that's a pretty good sign for a $1400 car. Of course, guys on this site will tell you they bought their mint condition SE for $200 but I don't live in that world either. Have fun!

Hades12

If it is a good looking and running then then $1400 is a fair price.

thomascjd

keep in mind that most parts for a 79 are year specific, body parts are hard to find and some things like the nice body kits arn't made for it

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

first off, the 79 and 80 model years are called SA's. the reason is in the vin. the vin's on 79-80 start with SA22C.... the later years, 81-85, are called FB's. same reason. the vin will start out JM1FB33....

major things to watch out for will be rust in the wheel wells. look for rust around the control arm mounts. earlier 7's tended to rust more in the water channel in the hatch and in odder places. the water channel will rot because the drain holes get plugged and nasty water and leaves and dirt will sit in there and destroy the paint and eventually the metal itself. i'm not sure what the reason is for this. find out the previous maitenance schedeule and see if you can find out what has and has not been replaced. as Tom stated, check running condition and check driving condition. check the condition of the oil. oil is VERY important to the rotary. not only does it lubricate, it helps to cool the engine. check the condition of the antifreeze. poor coolant is not a good thing. keep an eye on the temp gauge when driving and when the engine is idling.

check for worn bushings, cracked or worn belts and hoses. heck, pull a wheel and check the brakes in the front. cracks in the thermal reactor are bad. you can replace the thermal reactor with a used one in any event or do the best thing and replace the entire exhaust with a racing beat exhaust. this should get you started.

make sure you read through this: https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/1st-gen-rx-7-faq-page-237777/
and download the appropriate service manual for your car here: http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/manuals.html

Vashner

Only one way to find out. Test drive / inspect.

Also grab the VIN and get it checked with carfax or by the sticky in non technical (where this whole thread belongs anyway).

cordius

Thanks a bunch guys! It is really helpful. I don't know where most of the parts you mentioned are though

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

In my sig is a link to the online FSMS, carb manual and other rotary material. Download what you need and start reading.
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waysrx7

Just think, in two thousand miles you'll be back to zero.

FirebirdSlayer666

iTrader: (3)

Cars 1980 and older cannot be carfaxed since they don't have the US 17 digit Vin number that is with 81 and newer cars. Like they've said, drive it and inspect everything and make a decision. Body parts and what not really aren't hard to find at all