FYI,

I have a fresh streetported Cosmo RE engine with all new seals and springs. I run higher boost than stock (15-17 psi on a 63-1 Turbo).

I still have a fuel blow-by problem in my crankcase oil. I even have a breather filter on the filler neck with a mini catch can, with no luck.

Again, the blow by is only fuel, not oil.

I too will am changing the oil every 1K miles, but then again, I drive my card very hard.

I am just gonna live with it.

 

I also have fuel finding it's way into my oil. One way to get rid of it is to run a vacuum line from the filler neck to the inlet of the turbo.
Durring the winter I'm going to get a catch can like DF has and run a line from the top of it to the inlet of the turbo. With the catch can you can separate out the fuel/oil from the air so you don't have to suck it through the the turbo and coat the inside of the intercooler with oil.

 

In addition to the leaking injector syndrome,rotaries also route their fuel tank vapor canisters through the crankcase,which just adds another potential source of fuel contamination.
If you have a stripped block,you need more than a breather to evacuate the crankcase vapors properly.The factory system employs a vacuum check valve at the turbo,a hose at the filler cap,a hose at the base of the filler and a crankcase ventilation valve(PCV).
When I ran a carb,to prevent crankcase sludging I had to keep the ventilation valve and its hoses to the manifold vacuum source (to pull the vapors out),and a small breather filter (to let fresh air in).
If the little diamond shaped do-hicky in Setzep's diagram is an air filter,then thats about it.:-)

 

Yup, it's a small air filter

 

Nice pics!

 

I thought your oil fill tube was flying a kite!..........lol...j/k

 

hey steve ,, i heard that the 3" rb hangs really low. i was going to get it until i heard that. is it true? i really want to buy that downpipe for my H18.

carl.

 

It has a slight angle to it,but a little heat from a torch and push,and its fine.No distortion or collapsing.Its just a little tiny prod to get it tucked in.The stainless is so thin it only takes a little bit of heat.Its pretty cool actually,for its size the thing is so light you can barely tell your holding it!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...y/DSC01505.jpg

 

It shouldn't hang any lower than a cork sport right? If they are both made to mount up to a stock cat, they should hang about the same as on another right?

 

Youd think that,but I never had to mess with my heavy steel RB 2.5" downpipe.The 3" downpipe needed to be bent up a little because it was just more massive and I didnt want it to be too low.I guess maybe the 2.5" pipe had an angle too,but since it was smaller around, I didnt notice.Its been a couple years since I had the 2.5" so I cant remember anymore......

Im guessing the down angle is because the FC motor mounts and tranny mount hold the engine at a different angle that what Ive got.I could have raised the back mount up a little to fix the pipe's angle,but then the tranny shift box would have hit the top of the tunnel.

 

So it's more a matter of a 3" pipe vs a 2.5 " pipe right? So would there be a differance between the RB 3" and CS 3"?

thanks, gotta figure out if I should return it before it's too late.

 

Well,since either pipe is made for the same engine in the same chassis,Im guessing they would be made to the same specs(in other words,both probably have that angle.)
Im not sure what the CS pipe is made from(mild or stainless),but the RB's thin stainless construction made bending it an easy task.

 

Why not just make your own DP with a U bend and a turbo flange so you won't have this problem?

 

To each their own.But for $125.00 new, the 3" RB pipe is a pretty damn good value.

 

Yeah, I guess I'll just keep the rb one and bend it if it needs it. I already have it so I might as well keep it.

 

when are we gonna be able to see video of your car rex4life? it sounds like you are making good power.

 

Hey guys, I am almost done with a turboFB project. I am having a shop install my turbo etc and my brand new turbo has been leaking oil out the seals. I bought a rebuild kit and replaced all the seals and they still leak. Well the shop called me today and told me they found the problem. Apparently they said there is a baffle plate which is decreasing the flow of the oil return because I switched the front covers to an SE cover. I figured if theres so many other t2 swaps out there how come I've never heard of this problem? Does anyone know anything on this? Thanks

 

I'm using a stock SE front cover and no problems at all. Really depends on how you ran the drain line and what size fitting you used.

Please post a thread on the 1st gen forum as I don't want this one cluttered up with everyones problems--you're hi-jacking my thread for your problem

Thanks

 

Uploading some already posted photos to get them off my server. Mods will link them in later.

 

Again, gorgeous setup. I love the way you did your OEM install, then started going on with braided lines, and some color schemes in your car. The FMIC looks good amogst other things. Your car is wonderful. Great job. How much did you spend up to this point?

~Arshen

 

I'm at around $4500-5000. Thanks for the good words.

 

More pics

 

And more.

 

Last batch of pics--I think.

 

Yea, just got back from getting my car inspected which includes a dyno type emissions test--PASSED with no problems.

Ran from the gas station fill-up to the test with a slightly lighter premix ratio of about 175:1 (15 gal gas in 11 oz oil) which is pretty light on the premix oil. Drove low rpm < 4k) to the test just to be safe. Probably didn't need to fuss with it but this was my first sniffer test with the turbo swap. After the test I put in the rest of the oil to take me back down to 125:1 premix ratio.

I used 93 octane gas and Penzoil TC-W3 synthetic premium plus 2-stroke oil for premix.

My configuration was as follows: Stock port S4 T2 engine, Rtek 1.7 ECU with 720 secondaries, Porsche 944 FMIC, Corksport 3" --> 2-1/2"downpipe, 2-1/2" Bonez turbo-flo cat, RB Powerpulse muffler (full 2-1/2" exhaust), K+N filter. (posted cause sigs change over time)

Here's an summary of my test results:

50% hp/15 mph (rpm 1910)
-----------------------------------
HC-ppm 108 (limit 194)
CO-% 0.12 (limit 1.1)
CO2-% 14.5 (no limit)
O2-% 3.3 (no limit)
NOx-ppm 15 (limit 1504)
Dilution-% 14.62 (limit > 6)

25% hp/25 mph (rpm 2102)
-----------------------------------
HC-ppm 93 (limit 189)
CO-% 0.27 (limit 1.21)
CO2-% 14.4 (no limit)
O2-% 3.3 (no limit)
NOx-ppm 8 (limit 1374)
Dilution-% 14.67(limit > 6)

Pretty dam good results alright!

p.s. This was one BIG design goal that was successfully achieved. Gotta admit I was a little worried.