Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Put it in, get the tailshaft and tranny output as straight as possible towards the differential. Tighten and secure the transmission mounts, then tighten the engine mounts.

FWIW, I had to use my old (in perfect condition) engine mounts, as the new ones I ordered seemed almost twice as tall. I wonder if I got 2nd Gen ones from the dealer by mistake.

Rotofire

can i put a TII motor out of an 87 gsl-se into my stock 85 GSL what all would go into that?

eddierotary

iTrader: (7)

is the new driveshaft is the same leght of the SE one? it look the same

rotissary_power

instead of using a TII tranny can you keep the GSL-SE....i heard if you do that you would just have to get a lightened flywhee or something

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Yes.

rotissary_power

let me know when you get the wiring done and how hard it was..kewl

Rex4Life

Just got the modifed tranny parts from my brother-in-law. As usual he does excellent work. Here is a pic of the modified shifter rod and tube.



Notice the screw threaded into the hole where on the TII a dowel pin is used. All of the hardware in this shifter box will be from the FB tranny, and the shifter rod is from the TII (FC). A drawing and procedure will be posted later.

The tranny is now back together and looks great. Sure is a bitch getting that shifter rod mated up with the internals. There's more to it than what the FSM says.

Off work tomorrow so I'm pushing forward with the engine install.

Scott

Rex4Life

Well I was getting ready to mate up the TII tranny to the engine and thought I had better check and make sure it goes though all the gears--uh oh--got a problem, would only go in two gears. This caused about two hours of rework today.

Fortunately I had the GSL-SE tranny sitting there so I could look at it and try and figure out what the problem is. The extension housing was a bitch to get on in the first place and I finally determined I needed to take it back off and check the shift rod heads (three of them). BTW the FSM says nothing about this.

That was it, one shift rod head was not in the right position. Basically each shift rod head has three positions: in, neutral, and out. Try em out, push--pull on them so you know how they work. The way I fixed the problem was by putting all the shift rod heads in the neutral position.

Here is what it looks like:


Once you get everything put back together and the shifter installed, you should be able to shift into all 6 gears and neutral. In neutral the output shaft should not spin when you rotate the input shaft (although you may have to give it a little drag by hand).

Scott

Rex4Life

Well kind of--still gotta get it running. Installed the engine today, no problems of any kind other than the shifter head problem. Slipped right in like a glove, nothing hooked up yet. Here it is:



I am a little concerned about the S5 turbo heat shield, it is like really close to the idler arm. Maybe it will come out better once I get the engine lined up right.

Can't wait to start hooking everything up tomorrow.

Scott

RotaryRevn

Wohoo, you got the engine in! Does the stock turbo with stock manifold fit in there with no modifications? You mentioned a series 5 turbo. I think those manifolds come a little more straight out than the ser 4 right? I think the series 4 raises up a little So if yours fits, I should be able to fit series 4 no problem?
How close are the heat shields or turbo the the frame rail? Do you think there will be a problem with melting the paint? I want to eventually get a custom paint job years down the line......lol

eddierotary

iTrader: (7)

Rex4Life

That was already answered:

So far I'd say yes, tomorrow I'll be checking where the tranny output shaft ended up--then I'll know for sure--my bet is yes.

Rex4Life

So far I have had no modifications for the S5 turbo on the S4 block. Used all the same oil and coolant lines. Did swap over the boost pressure line from the front of the turbo, but this is really easy--bolt on.

As far as fitting in the FB, looks like it will but the heat shield will be close to the idler arm. I'll know more tomorrow.

Don't know--but that is what the heat shield is for, a thermal barrier.

Scott

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Looking Good!

That engine looks very clean. I see it was painted too.
Was that You or did you rebuild/port it?

Rex4Life

Thanks DF,

No, I didn't rebuild it myself. Rotary Resurrection (Kevin Landers) did it. I seriously considered it, two reasons why I didn't. Time, wanted to get everything moving along quicker, and I've never done one. While I feel I could do it, I know from working on large turbo compressors that there are many details that you can only gain by experience. I'm glad Kevin did the job--turns out the core I sent in was in pretty bad shape.

And no, I didn't have the engine ported. I felt like there was no benefit to doing it (--for me). Since I am using stock EFI, I will easily be able to overcome the EFI capabilites with a few good mods. A nice CAI, new turbo inlet duct, and good flowing exhaust will give it more boost than it can handle. I don't want more than 10 psi, and with those mods that is where I should end up. So really the last thing I will need is more flow from porting. Plus I am in an emissons testing county of Texas . I will be able to pass emissions with this setup--even a visual.

I like the way that orange/red paint looks in the black engine bay. IMHO a black engine bay makes it difficult to see things. That's why I used the silver vacuum hoses and painted the irons orange.

Scott

gsracer

Sweet progress....I'm in houston though and I have all my emissions off. I didn't know we had a required visual....every inspection I've done was just stuck on the rollers. When inspection time comes every year I stick on the main cat/pre cat and run a hose from the airpump to the cat. With that s5 turbo and a walbro you'll probably actually be running rich at 10 psi. You've come this far, go ahead and get a nice turbo back!!! When emissions comes around you can always stick cats back on.

Rex4Life

Well, I made two tranny mounts today.

The first was very easy and used the TII tranny rubber mounts. Ended up with too much rubber action. Decided to scrap it.

Then I went to the hardware store to see what I could find. Got everything I needed at a local non-home depot hardware store. Ended up being a real simple to make tranny mount.

Here is what I used:

3/4" sqare pipe, 3-9/16" long
(2) 8M x 1.25 x 45mm metric bolts
(2) 8M lock washers
(2) 3/8" flat washers
(2) small pieces of 1/16" thick rubber

Just gotta drill some 3/8" holes in it. Also drilled two holes in the FB tranny mount (about 3/16" aft of the stock holes).

This is what it looks like on the stock FB tranny mount:



Drawing to follow later.

Scott

Rex4Life

Today spent half of the day fabricating the tranny mount. Here's an install pic:



Installed the driveshaft--fit perfect--same exact measurement as with the GSL-SE tranny. With the tranny mount installed the output shaft is in the same location of the GSL-SE tranny--based upon marks that I made before it's removal. So I would definitely say you could swap driveshaft yokes (T2 +GSL-SE) and use the FB driveshaft. Just need to have a conversion u-joint installed on the yoke.

Started hooking up the tranny wires, no problem with the length (remember I used the T2 harness merged with the FB). The + lead to the starter motor is on the opposite side of the solenoid. Don't know if I can just switch them, but it looks like I can re-route the wire with no problem.

Well, just one more little fab project--exhaust connection. The rest is plug and play (or should I say pray). Shooting for first crank up on Monday--we'll see.

Scott

setzep

Lookin good
It will be interesting to see if that 1/16" rubber holds up though. You may find that you won't need it due to the cross member already having rubber isolators.
I remember being in that exact point in my swap, mounting up the engine/trans and thinking "wow that was easy now I have about 100 wires to terminate" d'oh! It goes fast though if you keep at it and it sounds like you're doing just that.
good luck!

eddierotary

iTrader: (7)

ohh well i should it looked better. anyways i got my new driveshaft yesterday and yes is the same leght of the se one, i should just took the se one with me and told them to doit this way, and i didnt had to spend so much time mesuring everything

Rex4Life

Did I say monday to crank up--scratch that. I'm thinking a few more weeks.

I was hoping to use the stock GSL-SE intake filter box until I could fab up a nice TID and CAI. Unfortunately, the stock location needs to be about another 1-3/4" forward for this to work--so there's no way to fit it all in there. Gonna have to scratch the whole stock TID also (it's a bad design anyways). I always knew there was a risk that it wouldn't work, just had to wait till the motor was in to check the fit-up. There's the getto method (PVC) and then there's steel pipe. Not sure how I'm gonna do it.

Roughed in the stock T2 exhaust up through the main cat. Looks like it will all fit OK--that's great. Did have to trim the main heat shield above the cat and connecting pipe, no big deal doing it.

From the cat back it will have to be custom. Right now I'm looking at the Magnaflow mufflers and using 2-1/2" pipe.

Roughed in the engine EM harness through the passenger side firewall to the ECU. So far, I would say there is no problem with any of the T2 wire harness's being too short--if anything I have extra. The biggest challenge is to find a location for the knock control box and ATP sensor--but I think I found a good setup.

If anyone has a good TID setup for a stock T2 AFM let me know.

Scott

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Use a 2.5 inch aluminum pipe with a cone filter on it.

Rex4Life

So DF, what kind of tube did you use on this? Looks like steel but hard to tell by the pic.



BTW, both of my browsers have trouble with the Project Kramer website. Esp. the photo page, can't scroll down. Is it something with my setup or their web hosting?

Scott

Rex4Life

Ahh heck,

I've been designing a new AFM/TID intake setup and turns out the answer was right in front of me. I can use the stock TID from the turbo to the AFM, then just put a cone filter on it--really easy compared to what I was thinking. Just scrap the SE filter box. Don't get me wrong, I still plan on doing the TID mod later, just don't want to right now--wanna get back on the road. Oh well wasted two days on that.

Tonight I ended up working on the wiring in the ECU area. Got it all figured out as to what goes where. Installed the T2 knock control box and ATP sensor with no wiring mods. Everything will fit into the stock ECU area under the passengers feet. Also started splicing female pins onto the ECU#1 and FEM-02 wire harness's. These spliced wires will feed into the FB X-07 connector and use the FB circuits--this really cuts down on the job of running wires.

Glad to be making progress again.

Scott

eddierotary

iTrader: (7)

trust me you dont wanna use PVC pies on your car, i had enoight with mines, im hoping to get the money to change the ASAP