(SUSPENSION) Freshing up and converting the suspension to SE spec shopping list?
(SUSPENSION) Freshing up and converting the suspension to SE spec shopping list?
So I have an 85 GS that sat for 9 years with a super clogged cat. Now that I've gotten the car and got it back on the road, the only thing left to really fix is the completly worn suspension. The struts/shocks are complety useless, and I think I want to replace the springs as long as I'm at it. I also want to switch to GSL-SE spec equipment and bolt pattern while I'm at it.
After about a day of searching and reading, what I'm hopeing for is someone to confirm my list to make sure I have the right idea.
For the Front I need
Left and right GSL-SE strut housings - I'm hoping to find complete take-offs and rebuild them
I was planning on getting Tokiko HP's off eBay
New rotors
Loaded calipers - Do I need new calipers or are my GS ones the same? If there the same I'll just get new pads.
I was also thinking about getting the Energy Suspension Poly Bushings kit on eBay as well.
Springs - Not sure if I should go Racing Beat or Eibach. From what I understand the rear sits too high with the RB springs. Any thoughts?
Anything else for the front I should think of?
For the Rear I need
Complete disc to disc Rear end from a GSL-SE
Again, I was going to use eBay Tokiko HP's
Not sure what springs yet
E-brake cable. - Is this an SE take-off, or do I need a custom one?
Anything else I should think of for the rear?
Now, I also need a GSL-SE proportioning valve? Can I use my Master cylinder?
Also, if any one has any suggestions or thoughts on their GSL-SE swap I would love to know if you noticed a differnce, or if you think it was really beneficial at all. I'm still on the fence on it.
After about a day of searching and reading, what I'm hopeing for is someone to confirm my list to make sure I have the right idea.
For the Front I need
Left and right GSL-SE strut housings - I'm hoping to find complete take-offs and rebuild them
I was planning on getting Tokiko HP's off eBay
New rotors
Loaded calipers - Do I need new calipers or are my GS ones the same? If there the same I'll just get new pads.
I was also thinking about getting the Energy Suspension Poly Bushings kit on eBay as well.
Springs - Not sure if I should go Racing Beat or Eibach. From what I understand the rear sits too high with the RB springs. Any thoughts?
Anything else for the front I should think of?
For the Rear I need
Complete disc to disc Rear end from a GSL-SE
Again, I was going to use eBay Tokiko HP's
Not sure what springs yet
E-brake cable. - Is this an SE take-off, or do I need a custom one?
Anything else I should think of for the rear?
Now, I also need a GSL-SE proportioning valve? Can I use my Master cylinder?
Also, if any one has any suggestions or thoughts on their GSL-SE swap I would love to know if you noticed a differnce, or if you think it was really beneficial at all. I'm still on the fence on it.
Originally Posted by estrada42
So I have an 85 GS that sat for 9 years with a super clogged cat. Now that I've gotten the car and got it back on the road, the only thing left to really fix is the completly worn suspension. The struts/shocks are complety useless, and I think I want to replace the springs as long as I'm at it. I also want to switch to GSL-SE spec equipment and bolt pattern while I'm at it.
After about a day of searching and reading, what I'm hopeing for is someone to confirm my list to make sure I have the right idea.
For the Front I need
Left and right GSL-SE strut housings - I'm hoping to find complete take-offs and rebuild them
I was planning on getting Tokiko HP's off eBay
New rotors
Loaded calipers - Do I need new calipers or are my GS ones the same? If there the same I'll just get new pads.
I was also thinking about getting the Energy Suspension Poly Bushings kit on eBay as well.
Springs - Not sure if I should go Racing Beat or Eibach. From what I understand the rear sits too high with the RB springs. Any thoughts?
Anything else for the front I should think of?
For the Rear I need
Complete disc to disc Rear end from a GSL-SE
Again, I was going to use eBay Tokiko HP's
Not sure what springs yet
E-brake cable. - Is this an SE take-off, or do I need a custom one?
Anything else I should think of for the rear?
Now, I also need a GSL-SE proportioning valve? Can I use my Master cylinder?
Also, if any one has any suggestions or thoughts on their GSL-SE swap I would love to know if you noticed a difference, or if you think it was really beneficial at all. I'm still on the fence on it.
After about a day of searching and reading, what I'm hopeing for is someone to confirm my list to make sure I have the right idea.
For the Front I need
Left and right GSL-SE strut housings - I'm hoping to find complete take-offs and rebuild them
I was planning on getting Tokiko HP's off eBay
New rotors
Loaded calipers - Do I need new calipers or are my GS ones the same? If there the same I'll just get new pads.
I was also thinking about getting the Energy Suspension Poly Bushings kit on eBay as well.
Springs - Not sure if I should go Racing Beat or Eibach. From what I understand the rear sits too high with the RB springs. Any thoughts?
Anything else for the front I should think of?
For the Rear I need
Complete disc to disc Rear end from a GSL-SE
Again, I was going to use eBay Tokiko HP's
Not sure what springs yet
E-brake cable. - Is this an SE take-off, or do I need a custom one?
Anything else I should think of for the rear?
Now, I also need a GSL-SE proportioning valve? Can I use my Master cylinder?
Also, if any one has any suggestions or thoughts on their GSL-SE swap I would love to know if you noticed a difference, or if you think it was really beneficial at all. I'm still on the fence on it.
On the rear you need the Se e-brake cables, nothing custom made.
Use the Se master cylinder, proportioning valve also.
As far as noticeable difference. You will notice a difference in the braking ablity of the vehicle and the benefit of the LSD with lower gearing.
The Stock Se suspension you would not notice anything. You will after you install new aftermarket springs and shocks.
Install aftermarket sway bars with the setup and you will notice a considerable difference in cornering.
Of course you will need new wheels to go with your setup also.
I believe there are some stock Se wheels for sale in the classified section.
I'm doing steering / suspension right now on my SE. What I am doing as we speak is the full poly kit (make sure you ask for the SE front sway bar bushing), new moog ball joints, all new moog tie rod ends inner / outer, new moog idler arm as it is more robust & longer lasting due to being a ball joint rather than simple bushing besides the fact mine looks horrid and needs replacing, and a moog pitman arm since I'm down there anyways.
I recommend all the same moog parts since you're going to have it apart anyways for the suspension upgrades since the poly kit comes with the boots you might as well do it and I bet your boots are torn contaminents have got inside . Plus your steering will tighten up to almost new. All in all, from RockAuto it comes to about $200. You can get the Moog ball joints off ebay in a pair for like 25 bucks... I figured this out recently when I noticed the picture of the ball joint is the same as the moog one and the moog one was discontinued. If you get it through RockAuto you'll pay easily $37 a piece.
I went on standby this afternoon as I realized I don't have a 27mm socket or 27mm open end wrench so I can't get the tension bar nut off. Need the socket for the pitman arm. Make sure you have those before you start
Seriously suggest an impact gun as some of those bolts even with penetrant just wouldn't budge. I still can't find an open ended torque wrench so not sure how I'm going to torque the tension rods back up to 108 lbs. Thought about maybe using a crowfoot but never seen a 27mm crowfoot before 
I have pictures of every step during my upgrade if you want to see as I've been documenting the whole process for fun.
I recommend all the same moog parts since you're going to have it apart anyways for the suspension upgrades since the poly kit comes with the boots you might as well do it and I bet your boots are torn contaminents have got inside . Plus your steering will tighten up to almost new. All in all, from RockAuto it comes to about $200. You can get the Moog ball joints off ebay in a pair for like 25 bucks... I figured this out recently when I noticed the picture of the ball joint is the same as the moog one and the moog one was discontinued. If you get it through RockAuto you'll pay easily $37 a piece.
I went on standby this afternoon as I realized I don't have a 27mm socket or 27mm open end wrench so I can't get the tension bar nut off. Need the socket for the pitman arm. Make sure you have those before you start
Seriously suggest an impact gun as some of those bolts even with penetrant just wouldn't budge. I still can't find an open ended torque wrench so not sure how I'm going to torque the tension rods back up to 108 lbs. Thought about maybe using a crowfoot but never seen a 27mm crowfoot before 
I have pictures of every step during my upgrade if you want to see as I've been documenting the whole process for fun.
Originally Posted by rx7doctor
You need the Se front calipers.
On the rear you need the Se e-brake cables, nothing custom made.
Use the Se master cylinder, proportioning valve also.
As far as noticeable difference. You will notice a difference in the braking ablity of the vehicle and the benefit of the LSD with lower gearing.
The Stock Se suspension you would not notice anything. You will after you install new aftermarket springs and shocks.
Install aftermarket sway bars with the setup and you will notice a considerable difference in cornering.
Of course you will need new wheels to go with your setup also.
I believe there are some stock Se wheels for sale in the classified section.
On the rear you need the Se e-brake cables, nothing custom made.
Use the Se master cylinder, proportioning valve also.
As far as noticeable difference. You will notice a difference in the braking ablity of the vehicle and the benefit of the LSD with lower gearing.
The Stock Se suspension you would not notice anything. You will after you install new aftermarket springs and shocks.
Install aftermarket sway bars with the setup and you will notice a considerable difference in cornering.
Of course you will need new wheels to go with your setup also.
I believe there are some stock Se wheels for sale in the classified section.
doc-- are you sure you dont need the SE front backing plates as well? i dont think all 84-85 are the same. will SE calipers bolt us to GS/GSL backing plates?
Originally Posted by aws140
doc-- are you sure you dont need the SE front backing plates as well? i dont think all 84-85 are the same. will SE calipers bolt us to GS/GSL backing plates?
Jarath, he stated "Complete" rear end. That means everything.
You guys think I am slipping or something?
Originally Posted by rx7doctor
He stated strut housings so I figure that covers it. Backing plates are part of housings.
Jarath, he stated "Complete" rear end. That means everything.
You guys think I am slipping or something?
Jarath, he stated "Complete" rear end. That means everything.
You guys think I am slipping or something?

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Originally Posted by jarath
I have pictures of every step during my upgrade if you want to see as I've been documenting the whole process for fun.
I plan on getting complete strut housings off a car that have the whole nine yards on them. By rebuilding, I meant new rotor, strut cartridge, wheel bearings if needed, that kind of thing.
Wheel bearings are the same 84-85. Front brake hoses are the same 84-85. So doing the front is very straight forward, remove and replace. Don't forget to have the alignment done afterwards.
The rear is very straight forward also. The biggest pain is getting the rear e-brake cables out and replacing them. Easiest to remove the exhaust shielding to do this. Also do not fully tighten up the watts links until after the car is lowered and the weight is on the vehicle.
The rear is very straight forward also. The biggest pain is getting the rear e-brake cables out and replacing them. Easiest to remove the exhaust shielding to do this. Also do not fully tighten up the watts links until after the car is lowered and the weight is on the vehicle.
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