Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Again, I must call upon you rotary gods to answer some questions.

I have my handy dandy Haynes manual here, and there is a connection it calls "X-01". Here is a pic of the diagram:



and here is the pic of the connector, if I remember correctly, it is behind the driver side strut tower:



In the diagram in the first picture, you can see that I labeled the top row of connectors A, and bottom row B, and the columns 1-11. After going back and forth finding out which wire goes where and connects to what, I have came up with this list:

Row/column number - Wire color (first color being the wire, second (if any) is the stripe) - Part

ROW A:
A1 - Black/White - Air Vent Valve / Anti-Afterburner Valve
A2 - Brown - Carburetor Heater
A3 - Black/Light Green - Sub Zero Start
A4 - Green/Red - Idle Switch
A5 - None
A6 - None
A7 - Light Green/Black - Power Solenoid Valve for Automatic Transmission
A8 - Black/Light Blue - Water Temperature Switch
A9 - Black/Red - Vacuum Control Valve (California Only)
A10 - Orange - Idle Switch (California Only)
A11 - None

ROW B:
B1 - Black/White - Air Vent Valve / Anti-Afterburner Valve
B2 - Blue/Black - Water Temperature Switch
B3 - Yellow/Red - Oil Level Sensor
B4 - Yellow/White - Water Temperature Gauge Unit
B5 - Light Green - Relief Solenoid Valve
B6 - Green/White - Air Conditioning Solenoid Valve
B7 - None
B8 - White - Alternator
B9 - Black/Yellow - Alternator
B10 - None
B11 - Black - Connected to multiple wires, assuming it is a ground?


Now, What can I remove If I am running an aftermarket carburetor, Premix, Still have A/C, and a Non-California car?

I am assuming again, that I can remove these wires:

A1 - Black/White - Air Vent Valve / Anti-Afterburner Valve
A2 - Brown - Carburetor Heater
A3 - Black/Light Green - Sub Zero Start
A7 - Light Green/Black - Power Solenoid Valve for Automatic Transmission
A9 - Black/Red - Vacuum Control Valve (California Only)
A10 - Orange - Idle Switch (California Only)
B1 - Black/White - Air Vent Valve / Anti-Afterburner Valve

Am I correct on this, or can I take off more? I want to trim down the unneeded wires, and cutting/taping over them seemed like such a cheap alternative. I am more worried about it not starting or running horrible after I do this. I have a spare harness from another engine in case I mess up.

*phew*

Thanks for your input guys!

Paradox

iTrader: (1)

wow. intelligent post. if you are running a aftermarket carb all you need is
B2 - Blue/Black - Water Temperature Switch
B3 - Yellow/Red - Oil Level Sensor
B4 - Yellow/White - Water Temperature Gauge Unit

with a aftermarket carb you can actually just remove the engine harness and run a few wires for the oil pressure gauge and temp sensor.. not much else you need.

g'luck man

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Serious? I didnt know there was that much I could remove...


Now, when I leave B2/3/4, does that mean I also remove B11, the ground wires? I am pretty sure that those grounds are for the plugs only, but I want to be double sure and not have horrible idle from poor grounding.

Thanks again man!

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

I cant edit, but would the removal of B6 stop my AC from working?

Stevan

iTrader: (17)

No, it just powers the solenoid that controls the throttle opener, to up the rpm's to compensate for the compressor running. It's good to have.
I did the wire elimination thing also, and kept that working.

I'm not sure but I think the water temp switch A8 is needed to keep the choke **** out until the car is warmed up, without it, the the **** just pops back in when pulled out.

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

good post ...

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Its all good, my carb doesnt have a choke

Thanks everyone, and I will update when it gets all hooked up!

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

I am also leaving on A8, as one of the wires mentioned to keep (B2, Water Temperature Switch) is also labeled the same.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Update: Keeping A8 was a good idea, as B2 and A8 go into the same plug. Here it is, after I removed the other wires:

(Still in same order, A is top, B is bottom, columns 1-11)



If you plan on doing this, I was quite puzzled on how to remove the plugs and wires. Get a pair of needle nose pliers and grip one of the pins inside of the clip. Twist and pull (gently) until you hear it snap. the metal plug is held on by 2 small wires, which is the snap you hear. When it is off, you can pull the wire out from the back. Repeat as necessary.



Also, when I took the wire connected to B6, it had a black wire running from it. I believe it is the ground, so I ran it back to the black wire on the connector X-01, should be in the slot B11.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

There is a better way to remove wires from any of the plastic plugs, it shows how in the FSM. One needs a very narrow jewelers screwdriver to push the tab back, then the wire can be pulled out. Doing it your way breaks the plastic holding tab and and the wires cannot be reinserted and expected to stay.

Btw, it's excellent to see someone taking a serious looks at the diagrams and figuring out how to dewire the harness the right way, instead of simply cutting wires here and there. Keep it up.

REVHED

Why did you remove the alternator wires?

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, I saw the tab but all I had were phillips heads

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Because I wasnt payint attention

I guess I will have to remove the wires from the other connector (X-01 plugs into) that run the alternator and splice them. I am going back out there to wire the car back up and connect the fuel system, then we will see if she starts!