(ELECTRICAL) Wiring Mess!
Again, I must call upon you rotary gods to answer some questions.
I have my handy dandy Haynes manual here, and there is a connection it calls "X-01". Here is a pic of the diagram: http://i12.tinypic.com/312istf.jpg and here is the pic of the connector, if I remember correctly, it is behind the driver side strut tower: http://i10.tinypic.com/2e4f9ch.jpg In the diagram in the first picture, you can see that I labeled the top row of connectors A, and bottom row B, and the columns 1-11. After going back and forth finding out which wire goes where and connects to what, I have came up with this list: Row/column number - Wire color (first color being the wire, second (if any) is the stripe) - Part ROW A: A1 - Black/White - Air Vent Valve / Anti-Afterburner Valve A2 - Brown - Carburetor Heater A3 - Black/Light Green - Sub Zero Start A4 - Green/Red - Idle Switch A5 - None A6 - None A7 - Light Green/Black - Power Solenoid Valve for Automatic Transmission A8 - Black/Light Blue - Water Temperature Switch A9 - Black/Red - Vacuum Control Valve (California Only) A10 - Orange - Idle Switch (California Only) A11 - None ROW B: B1 - Black/White - Air Vent Valve / Anti-Afterburner Valve B2 - Blue/Black - Water Temperature Switch B3 - Yellow/Red - Oil Level Sensor B4 - Yellow/White - Water Temperature Gauge Unit B5 - Light Green - Relief Solenoid Valve B6 - Green/White - Air Conditioning Solenoid Valve B7 - None B8 - White - Alternator B9 - Black/Yellow - Alternator B10 - None B11 - Black - Connected to multiple wires, assuming it is a ground? Now, What can I remove If I am running an aftermarket carburetor, Premix, Still have A/C, and a Non-California car? I am assuming again, that I can remove these wires: A1 - Black/White - Air Vent Valve / Anti-Afterburner Valve A2 - Brown - Carburetor Heater A3 - Black/Light Green - Sub Zero Start A7 - Light Green/Black - Power Solenoid Valve for Automatic Transmission A9 - Black/Red - Vacuum Control Valve (California Only) A10 - Orange - Idle Switch (California Only) B1 - Black/White - Air Vent Valve / Anti-Afterburner Valve Am I correct on this, or can I take off more? I want to trim down the unneeded wires, and cutting/taping over them seemed like such a cheap alternative. I am more worried about it not starting or running horrible after I do this. I have a spare harness from another engine in case I mess up. *phew* Thanks for your input guys! |
wow. intelligent post. if you are running a aftermarket carb all you need is
B2 - Blue/Black - Water Temperature Switch B3 - Yellow/Red - Oil Level Sensor B4 - Yellow/White - Water Temperature Gauge Unit with a aftermarket carb you can actually just remove the engine harness and run a few wires for the oil pressure gauge and temp sensor.. not much else you need. g'luck man |
Serious? I didnt know there was that much I could remove...
Now, when I leave B2/3/4, does that mean I also remove B11, the ground wires? I am pretty sure that those grounds are for the plugs only, but I want to be double sure and not have horrible idle from poor grounding. Thanks again man! |
I cant edit, but would the removal of B6 stop my AC from working?
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Originally Posted by Jeezus
I cant edit, but would the removal of B6 stop my AC from working?
I did the wire elimination thing also, and kept that working. I'm not sure but I think the water temp switch A8 is needed to keep the choke knob out until the car is warmed up, without it, the the knob just pops back in when pulled out. |
good post ...
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Originally Posted by Stevan
I'm not sure but I think the water temp switch A8 is needed to keep the choke knob out until the car is warmed up, without it, the the knob just pops back in when pulled out.
Thanks everyone, and I will update when it gets all hooked up! |
I am also leaving on A8, as one of the wires mentioned to keep (B2, Water Temperature Switch) is also labeled the same.
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Update: Keeping A8 was a good idea, as B2 and A8 go into the same plug. Here it is, after I removed the other wires:
(Still in same order, A is top, B is bottom, columns 1-11) http://i9.tinypic.com/2j49hd4.jpg If you plan on doing this, I was quite puzzled on how to remove the plugs and wires. Get a pair of needle nose pliers and grip one of the pins inside of the clip. Twist and pull (gently) until you hear it snap. the metal plug is held on by 2 small wires, which is the snap you hear. When it is off, you can pull the wire out from the back. Repeat as necessary. http://i9.tinypic.com/2eztypu.jpg Also, when I took the wire connected to B6, it had a black wire running from it. I believe it is the ground, so I ran it back to the black wire on the connector X-01, should be in the slot B11. |
There is a better way to remove wires from any of the plastic plugs, it shows how in the FSM. One needs a very narrow jewelers screwdriver to push the tab back, then the wire can be pulled out. Doing it your way breaks the plastic holding tab and and the wires cannot be reinserted and expected to stay.
Btw, it's excellent to see someone taking a serious looks at the diagrams and figuring out how to dewire the harness the right way, instead of simply cutting wires here and there. Keep it up. |
Why did you remove the alternator wires?
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Originally Posted by trochoid
There is a better way to remove wires from any of the plastic plugs, it shows how in the FSM. One needs a very narrow jewelers screwdriver to push the tab back, then the wire can be pulled out. Doing it your way breaks the plastic holding tab and and the wires cannot be reinserted and expected to stay.
Btw, it's excellent to see someone taking a serious looks at the diagrams and figuring out how to dewire the harness the right way, instead of simply cutting wires here and there. Keep it up. |
Originally Posted by REVHED
Why did you remove the alternator wires?
I guess I will have to remove the wires from the other connector (X-01 plugs into) that run the alternator and splice them. I am going back out there to wire the car back up and connect the fuel system, then we will see if she starts! |
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