the other day while looking through a room with 305 used alternaters in it and spied a brand new ac delco 130 amp alt. the mount ears are in approx the rite position , the tag hanging off of it said 92 buick lesabre 3800 engine, the lower mount on alt required a healthy trim job, double vbelt pulley from ford alt, a connecter snaged from the 'yard and walla, the gm cs series alt uses a smart reg that will work with any hook up, the gm conn had two wires and the mazda has two , it didnt matter which way i hooked it up , it worked either way, idiot lite functions , everyting! there you go 1.3 hours apprx 35.00 . 130 amps, every thing on the car works better . the blinkers look lke humming birds wings. no seriously , another nickel and dime tip from
DANKUS PERFORMANCE RACING, tia trev

 

'ere

 

Now I always said Trevor Buicks are good for something.
Ray

 

Looks good Dankus. Those alternators are a dime a dozen otu here in the sticks!

 

alot of my mods are along the lines of if the 7 broke i can push it to autozone , hell the modules for hei only cost 17.00 try to buy a new mazda ignito for that, as far as that goes ill carry spares too, but so far they are holding up great, very forgiving more than i can sayfpor they factory ones

 

here's my upgrade - quite cheap

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2445840845

 

i'm wondering, i can buy this gm 140 amp alt for 75 bucks, or i can get a 70 amp one for 60 dollars, is 140 amps over doing it, or should i just be safe and stick with a second gen one?

 

Btw in the second picture, what is the breather attatched to, and what is its function?

 

personally i dont think that there is such a thing as too many amps , my electric fan is a ford unit , two speed low speed spikes 23 and main tains at 16 amps on at 160 deg, the high speed surges 45amps and maintians at 31 amps , it comes on at 220deg or when the ac compressor is running, it has never kicked on without the ac, ok so 31a plus 17 to the coils and hei modules at idle, and i know its more pullin alot more on its way to 7k. then start inside car med heater fan12amps,lights 18 amps 28 with brakes applied including led in wing. then the rear defrost stereo and so on, it adds up. if you got a favorite savage yard go dig and you will geone. most will let you exchange if defective. the one i grabbed looked like they installed it and pulled out on the street and got hit, that new 35.00, fri , I found 94 caddilac with heated windshield heated leather, 155 amps , 50.00 ! im sure u'd need double belts on it. and the little filter is for the air pump , the two hoses that feed and return the acv/pump were open after cai install, i thought i could filter airoump inlet and direct the oulet towards ground , but it made way two much noise, i was goin to dinner pulled over and cut freakin belt off, now im blocking acv and loosing every thing else pumo nest, etc.

 

Can ya post a pic of the mounts that you trimmed, what type alternator you got the pulley from, and even if it doesn't matter, your wiring.

I wanna see how much trimming was involved...

Thanks.

 

It's a little off the thread, but did you ever take pics of the HEI setup or make a diagram?

 

as for the alternator, there is one 105 amp, and one 140 amp used for the lesabre with heated windsheild, which one should i get

 

Get the 140. It will be worth the extra money. I have an 88' LeSabre and the 105 is good, but with all the options on it, it just barely does it. Chances are the 105 if it is used is almost wore out.

 

going from 50 amps to 140 sounds like a big jump, of course, i have 6 gauge wire replacing the old 10 gauge, and i have a new fuse box to replace the fusable links, but it still seems like alot, the one i'm getting is rebuilt also

 

HOLY ****!!! The stocker is only 50 AMPS. This sucks. I need a cap for when I install my system.

 

the lower mount on the gm alt is 3''wide the ears are on the car , the mazda alt has ears and the front cover has the 3'' wide peice, there reversed. so i measurd the distance to pullley on fac alt and trim ed the gm moubt down till matched , i trimmed about 2.25 '' off , im pullin it down tomorrow will get you guys better pics, I handled the amps increase by adding another 8ga link between alt and fuse link box, then i ran 4 gauge from alt to the batt lead at the starter, then 2ga back to bin behind seat, seeems to wor k well, ive pulled my hood and taken before pics , the after pics, will come when done. hopefully youll like it, i promise i wont get carried away

 

im still working on it , ive omly got to finish wiring the ign, install hood ive decided to move battery later. im going through mmmmmmeeeaarppp mmmmmmmmeeaaaauurrrrpppp, mmmmmmmmmchirp mmmmmmm,oh **** cop, any way you get the idea sitting behind the wheel while on jackstands doesnt cut it.

 

Back From The DEAD!!!!

Hey Guys, sorry to dredge up an old thread, but I'm wondering if there's been any more word on this.

I'm seriously considering doing this mod, and was wondering if anyone else had done it or something similar. While the TII alternator mod that's mentioned in the FAQ is good, this one provides much better wattage, and these alts are cheaper/easier to find around here. It looks like Matty was considering it, did you do it?

Any more info on the alt you pulled the dual-pulley off of, or the "trimming" you had to do dankus would be much appreciated. Would it work with the stock pulley, or do you need the dual for some reason (ie: to line the pulleys up more because the dual sticks out farther or something)

I also think this should be added to the FAQ - Bob?

Jon

 

Found this :
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=258903

It isn't much, but it shows someone else has done this

Matty, any info?

Jon

 

Why the **** would you want to put a junk *** cs-130 on a car that came with a bulletproof mitsubishi alt.
upgrade to the the s4 or s5 alt. do you really need all that power? it takes power to make power, it's a law of physics.
GM=JUNK another law of physics.
japanese alts last forever, literally.
Seriously, if you own a gm with a cs-130 or cs-130d plan on getting a new one/rebuild every 40k or less.

Jusy my opinion, from working for a battery company that rebuilt alts.

Joe

 

Yeah, and your battery company must get every single order in the world. My parents have always owned GM's. As far as I know, the only alternator that had to be rebuilt was the one in a 88 Buick LeSabre. The bearings went out at about 180 000 Km. It now has 225 000 Km and showing no signs of going out any time soon. The alternator on our 91 Lumina van has 163 000 Km on it. Still going strong. Same alternator too. Don't try to tell me GM alternators are junk.

 

You've owned all these vehicles since new?
Go to your local rebuilder and ask him what the worst alt is. he'll say cs-130 or cs-130d.

 

regardless, the question was about *how* to do this, not whether or not I should :P

But thanks for the info/opinion It something I'll consider.

Jon

 

Well, when I had a cavalier for gas mileage reasons I had to replace my alt. at 78K and then had to replace the remanufactured alt 3 times and a NEW AC Delco one twice.

That's five alt to get a working GM.

 

Hey, Yea i finished this mod a long time ago, and to be honest i couldn't be more happy with the results. The alt belts line up perfectly, cutting down the actual ears of the alt only took aobut 10-15 with a grinder. The alt stays in place very nicely and very sturdy. My apreciation goes out to dankus. I have a system in my car, 2 -12's, 600 watt amp, dlidfis, fog lights, electric tarus fan, and with head lights, wiper, defroster, heating and brakelights, and 1200 rpm the voltage will still stay at 13.5. its awesome. Such an improvement over stock. Completely recommend it! And boy was it cheap, i paid 55 canadian dollars for a fresh rebuilt 110 amp alternator, with dual belts and the harness. I say go for it.