(BRAKES) Slotted or Cross Drilled rotors?
07-19-05, 08:40 AM
#26
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What type? Um, run the car fast and slam the brakes. When you get it home, take off the wheel, and proceed to grab the rotor. If it's extremely hot, it's working just fine, and there would be no need to change it! 
07-19-05, 11:33 AM
#27
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Originally Posted by jays83gsl
The way I was taught, the brake is more important in braking your wheels loose in dirt (the only time you should EVER be drifting, and expect to win!) than the throttle. The wheels jump off the ground with the weight transfer (extreme example, but you know) and allows you to have a much more controlled slide than if you just powered into the slide.
On dirt or gravel (any deformable surface, really) just because you are at a high angle to the road doesn't mean you are sliding. You're driving on basically loose ***** of material, and they keep rolling out from under you. You still have plenty of traction, it's just that the *road surface* is moving.
If you try to drive at pavement-style angles to the road, you won't go anywhere. And if you try to accelerate mid-corner, you basically plow right off the road. Brakes are *important*.
07-19-05, 12:46 PM
#30
The only time the slotted/drilled rotors will help you is if you keep your brake temperatures high enough for the pad to create a gas buffer between the pad and rotor, the slots/holes vent these gases from the rotor face. This will not occur on the street legally, in any autocross or on many other events unless you are running at high speed and braking for corners continually lap after lap.
So they are for appearances only unless you are running door to door on road curcuits, in which case you'll get rid of the stock braking system anyway.
Cheap stock rotors will warp, but are cheap and easily replaced when you feel them start to pulse through the pedal. You need brake pads suited for your driving, a lot of race pads will scare the hell out of you on the first drive down to the store each morning as they don't operate well when cold,
Also good quality fluid, regularly changed, as this fluid is Hydroscopic when means it absorbs water which boils and creates steam in your lines reducing the effectiveness of your brakes.
So they are for appearances only unless you are running door to door on road curcuits, in which case you'll get rid of the stock braking system anyway.
Cheap stock rotors will warp, but are cheap and easily replaced when you feel them start to pulse through the pedal. You need brake pads suited for your driving, a lot of race pads will scare the hell out of you on the first drive down to the store each morning as they don't operate well when cold,
Also good quality fluid, regularly changed, as this fluid is Hydroscopic when means it absorbs water which boils and creates steam in your lines reducing the effectiveness of your brakes.
07-19-05, 04:23 PM
#32
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Originally Posted by DriveFast7
they were brembo
mmmmmm carbon-ey goodness
07-19-05, 06:37 PM
#33
well in my case, the difference between track and street is very slim. I live in the mountains where there are roads(hwy221, 321) that I have lost pressure in the pedal and it went to the floor. (deffinately bled the brakes after that day) Anyways, I am just saying some roads do require more ventilation. I am not saying that Slotted rotors will slove the problem but It cannot make it worse. Brake ducts would help also, like someone has already said. I dont know if anyone has mention this, If you get new rotors you will need to get new pads. so new pads (ones that bite IE: Hawk) + plus new rotors should aid in braking
07-19-05, 06:48 PM
#34
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Next time, look on the box...Brembo rotors come from a lot of places depending on price....you might be horrified to see who they deal with....Hop Sing Rotor Company?
Rumor is that Wal-Mart will be carrying Brembo next year......
Rumor is that Wal-Mart will be carrying Brembo next year......
07-19-05, 07:35 PM
#36
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Originally Posted by mar3
Rumor is that Wal-Mart will be carrying Brembo next year......
Brembo is just a manufacturer, I've seen a lot of GARBAGE rotors stamped Brembo. (Those $10 specials again...) Chevy makes nice Corvettes, doesn't mean just because a car is a Chevy means it's the ****. As an example.
07-20-05, 08:18 PM
#39
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Originally Posted by peejay
I get about 10k out of my brakepads. I've never changed rotors, never had one warp either. They turn funny shades of blue and purple, though 
Hmmm... I might not have to dismantle the hubs on my truck after all (4x4. PITA to change front rotors. I usually have two sets of rotors for each vehicle I have. One set on car, one set off car. I have em turned and pick em up from the machine shop before I do a brake job... Unless it's a cheap car like my old Civic, where new rotors = the cost of turning them... I need to buy a brake lathe.)
07-20-05, 08:30 PM
#40
07-20-05, 09:34 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by Pele
I thought when you toast rotors like that, they warp. I thought it's the uneven heat that causes them to bend.
"Warped" rotors is usually caused by rotor runout when the rotor is installed. Use a dial indicator and make sure there's *zero* runout when it's installed. If you don't, the high spots will wear down as you drive down the road, then you get a thickness variation, and it all goes downhill from there.
Another reason to use better quality parts.
Re: outgassing... If they are outgassing, they aren't bedded-in yet.
07-20-05, 11:52 PM
#45
Lives on the Forum
Interesting that nobody has brought braking technique into this argument.....
Long, steady braking will result in heat buildup and glazing.
Harder controlled braking over shorter periods reduces both heat buildup and glazing.
Just thought I'd throw that in there.......
Long, steady braking will result in heat buildup and glazing.
Harder controlled braking over shorter periods reduces both heat buildup and glazing.
Just thought I'd throw that in there.......
07-20-05, 11:57 PM
#46
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Originally Posted by Kentetsu
Interesting that nobody has brought braking technique into this argument.....
Long, steady braking will result in heat buildup and glazing.
Harder controlled braking over shorter periods reduces both heat buildup and glazing.
Just thought I'd throw that in there.......
Long, steady braking will result in heat buildup and glazing.
Harder controlled braking over shorter periods reduces both heat buildup and glazing.
Just thought I'd throw that in there.......
07-21-05, 04:22 AM
#48
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Originally Posted by SSpyderX
I eliminated my wheels as well. too much weight!?!
07-21-05, 09:27 AM
#49
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Originally Posted by First gen man
My plan was always slotted and crossdrilled. That way you have a place for the hot air and for some better braking power.
07-21-05, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by SSpyderX
I eliminated my wheels as well. too much weight!?!