JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Well Im sure it was only a matter of time, but it finally happened 5 yrs. first blown motor. It's time to learn....
Heres some background..

I just put a 50mm tial bov and new charge pipe on, the next day it rained I couldnt drive the car hard. Next day after work I went snowboarding some kid wipes out in front of me, I jumped over him caught an edge, face flopped broke my arm, 2 days later had surgery 5inch plate and 6 screws, in a cast past my elbow, cant drive.

Started the car up a couple weeks after surgery got a small arm brace now and let it idle for a while, just to keep it fresh. So I guess I fowled the plugs from it idling to long cause it began to ran like ****, I cleaned them and reinstalled, the car ran fine. I said **** it I'll go run my laundry to work and my moms.
Leave work get snagged in an inspecton stop make sit thru this gay mobile inspection unit for like an hour and gave ma a 130 dollar ticket ******** lol
So I get to my moms and leave.
My bros following me in his Dinan 3 series. So I punch it at 7 lbs it mad some weird noise didnt know where or what it was did it again saw my boost start flucuating and the car starts runs like **** and stalls. I restart it running like **** thought my plugs just got loaded up cause of my earlier problem drive home park it went and got new plugs for it put them in no change I said ****.
Went to work yesterday grabbed my compression tester front rotor all faces over 100psi and the rear 50,50,100psi ****

I called and spoke to Tony at T&R. He told me what I expierienced was a pinging, and was most likely caused by some type of fuel problem. Anyone have anymore info on this?

So went strait back to work grabbed most of my tools and went at it.
In an hour I turned my garage in to a shop. 4hrs later motor and trans are out and seperated got the turbo off too. Mind you I did this all basically 1 handed with no power tools. The only help I recieved was when I accually pulled it out, my buddy helped guide it out of the bay.
So, I was gonna finish and tear it down to a short block today but its ******* snowing like blizzard type lol. My little dinky compressors not strong enough to blast off the flywheel nut, soo I have to throw it in the Cadi and go to work to get it off but its too crazy out to drive there
Basically I figured Id let you know what an awsome month I've had lol

The real reason I made this theard is to get some tips on my rebuild and see what u guys are using in your motors.

Because Im out of work for the next 2 monthes and have nothing else to do with myself, I will be rebuilding this in my room and be posting up pix and details of my build.

James

Bamato

iTrader: (6)

Crappy stroke of luck you've had. But post pics of your rebuild please

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

engine

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

^ Stupid post.

mo·tor
n.
1. Something, such as a machine or an engine, that produces or imparts motion.
2. A device that converts any form of energy into mechanical energy, especially an internal-combustion engine or an arrangement of coils and magnets that converts electric current into mechanical power.
3. A motor vehicle, especially an automobile: "It was a night of lovers. All along the highway ... motors were parked and dim figures were clasped in revery" (Sinclair Lewis).
adj.
1. Causing or producing motion: motor power.
2. Driven by or having a motor.
3. Of or for motors or motor vehicles: motor oil.
4. Of, relating to, or designating nerves that carry impulses from the nerve centers to the muscles.
5. Involving or relating to movements of the muscles: motor coordination; a motor reflex.

My one suggestion is to not jet the eccentric shaft with weber jets, keep the factory ball and spring.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

some quick pix i went out today and tore it down to a short block

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

my arm for u guys
btw dont post stupid **** in my thread

o0Quicksilver0o

everybody loves a rebuild! updates!

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

so I was just going over the stuff that im going to need for the rebuild. so i went to mazdatrix to start pricing out my build I found a full gasket set 300 bux and the rotor kits like 1300 but is that just a stock kit? arent there REW seals or springs that would be considered an upgrade? what about apex seals? I was looking into goopy. anyhelp from you guys would be awsome. im back to being a noob lol
thanks
james

TheAbsence

iTrader: (19)

Atkins also sells rebuild kits so shop around.

just startn

iTrader: (33)

There are many places that sell rebuild kits. The thing you have to consider before buying anything is what is the engine going to be used for. Research research research. Ill be on the hills in about 3 hours, hope my arm or anythign for that matter looks like that when i get home....just jynxed myself

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

so you never retuned after the mods?

Schmitty

iTrader: (11)

Let me know if you need an extra hand during the rebuild. I'm local and I've done a rebuild before.

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

sounds to me like your fuel pressure regulator crapped out or the vacuum line popped off.. explains why it was running crap at idle and fouling plugs (too rich in vacuum) and blew up when you boosted (too lean in boost). same thing happened to me a couple months back, but luckily had a wideband in the car and was able to catch it. AFR would be 10's in idle and cruise (even with closed loop taking out -12%), and lean out to 14's in boost

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

No retune
The pipe was the same size I dont think it had anything to do with it. Tony at T&R referred to what I expierienced as pinging. Anyone have some info on this he said it was caused by a fuel issue. The car was also tuned very conservativly the boost wasnt turned up too high when it happend boost was fluctuating between 7-10psi its tuned to 14.
all vac lines ziptied and were connected when removing everything. thinking about closing all the vac lines on the manifolds and running a vac block for simplification.
Soo idk gonna try to rip it open tomorrow gotta set up my room and fly wheel off. Im upset it didnt actually go boom lol but I guess Im lucky most of my **** will still be usable. let me kno what u guys think

James

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

im gonna purchase a rebuild video of some sort. If u like to lend a hand that would be cool I need to tear this thing down asap to figure out all the **** I need to purchase pm me if ud like
james

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

Being about to kick out 100psi on one face of the rotor that kicked the bucket sounds like you might have gotten lucky enough to crack an apex seal, not completely break it.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

i kno thats good i was unabled tosee any damage thru the exhuast ports

cptpain

iTrader: (1)

if you want to do a proper rebuild, you're going to have to spend a week or two cleaning all parts and then checking tolerances.

filing down side seals for proper clearance is a PITA experience for me, be very careful.
another major thing to look for is the clearance of the apex seal grooves, i cant remember off the top of my head what the FSM has for limits, but i would always try to be nice and tight.

as for particular parts for the rebuild kits.... i always go with OEM rebuild kits. But thats only because i dont really build any cars to make oodles of power, but instead be nice daily drivers with a little more pep in their step.


If i was going for significant power, i'd go with a specialist.

but to be really specific on the rebuild kits you are looking at, I would call and ask each place that sells them and ask them if the kit is right for your build.

I bought all my rebuild kits from Mazdatrix since they carry OEM parts, that is, until i got a hold of Ray@Malloy and got way better prices

arghx

iTrader: (3)

You really need to figure out why your motor blew up. You don't want to end up as just another one of those guys who blows a couple motors and then blames rotaries. Can you post your map from your Haltech?

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

id have to get the software my tuner has everything he installed and snatched it
I plan on clean and flow testing all my injectors. ill be checking my FPR also

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

i looked thru the exhaust ports and saw no damage in there if I just cracked a seal could I just put in new ones and reassemble it with all new gaskets?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Pull everything out and inspect it first. Then make a decision about what you are going to replace. There are acceptable tolerances for the different springs and seals. You could also have housings that shouldn't be reused.

You need to check out www.rebuildingrotaryengines.com . also look through the engine section of the service manual for specs. If you aren't on a tight budget you shouldn't reuse something that is near the wear limit. Otherwise you will have lower compression, less power potential, and a longer break-in period.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

the motors relativly fresh appx 10k-15k miles premixed oil changed appx 1500-3000 miles this motor should be in good condition compression prior to this was over 100 on all faces

FC_fan

iTrader: (2)

I would recommend getting rotary aviation apex seals. the super seals are said to take more abuse then OEM, as in crack instead of break if a situation occurs. kinda half documented and half rumor deal about them though but they are at least as good as OEM. they have whole rebuild kits too. the upgrade items would be the FD corner seal springs. whatever kit you get, you can't go wrong buying from mazdatrix, rotary aviation, or atkins. I think they all offer their own rebuild dvds too. Pineapple racing also sells some "heavy duty" water jacket seals you may want to look into. depends on your build and if you think they're worth it.

definitely check all your tolerances and clearance your rotor seals properly as stated.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

well checked out the RA site i think im gonna buy their overhual kit and upgrade the seals and springs and the omp adaptor im pretty sure these guys prices are one of the lowest
what the deal with the thermal pellet is it a good upgrade?
arghx thanks for that site lots of great stuff on there im pretty sure my housings are in good condition bieing i have 100+ pis on the one face if not ill bring them to goopy for resurfacing hes not too far
also looking in to this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Knock...Q5fCarQ5fParts