mazdatrix order should be here tomorrow, Ill begin the rip apart then, just have to get this front bolt out

 

actually my mazdatrix order came a day early now i have to get my brother and a friend to carry the motor in to my basement ...

 

gtfo? What did i say?

 

So got the motor in the basement and mounted.
Removed the oil pan and pick up, spend an hour removing all the silicone.
Got the front bolt loose only took an 8ft pipe on the breaker bar was surprised the shitty mazdatrix weld held up on the flywheel stopper. Did find the termal pellet was replaced but the regulators werent upgraded.
Took the front cover off removed the pump, chain, and everything down to the stationary gear.
Flipped it broke free all of the torsion bolts and removed rear stationary gear only thing left is to crack it open gotta wait til later

I did notice on of the bolts had an old mazda emblem on it is this normal?

Also noticed I am running a N/A rear housing theres no coolant passange to the LIM. I was gonna block them anyway. Is there any other problems with this?

ill post pix later
James

 

Yes, even the FSM says the tension bolt with the mazda M is bolt #17.

 

whats all this about blocking the coolant passage to the LIM on the rear iron? benefits from this? I'm curious to know all the mods done when cracking a motor so I can do what I want on my rebuild and not be tearing down again prematurely.

 

yo im in the same boat sort of, blew my motor before christmas. Gonna be tearing it down this week, hopefully i wont be lazy and pull it tomarrow.

The mazdatrix rebuild dvd is pretty good, buddy let me borrow it. message me about it i got a link.

in a prior thread, my turbo ate something so yeah, i dont know what to expect in there.

Have you considered doing any porting? something im thinking about but not sure myself due to increasing the financial cost of the whole thing.

 

Hey guys ripped it apart today got a whole bunch of pix found my culprit in my rear rotor one of the apex seals lost a tip so carried on to the front and found a cracked cornerseal it was in two peices sitting there lucky it stayed together I guess. So I took pix of everything let me kno what u guys think

 

pix of the tear down. How are the Ports Irons, and housings looking?

 

more

 

last of housings and irons

 

my races on the rotors both of them look bronzish is this ok? they're smooth.

heres the broken apex seal in the rear rotor and heres the broken corner seal from the front rotor.

 

Idk if that rotor housing should be used again. Atleast from what ive learned on here. The side housings could and should be lapped. Are you gonna get new rotor bearings? Ive heard Some guys dont like to do that for some reason.

 

for the side iron, in the mazdatrix dvd, he showed a method of using a cutting compound *i forgot the name of it* that you apply and rub with the other iron and it laps the surface.

 

^a valve grinding or clover compound right?

 

I've heard that if you see bronze (I think its copper) that the bearings should be replaced. I'll do some searching and make sure I'm right in a bit. others chime in.

I also know that people don't like to replace those bearings because they think it is easier to get a spun bearing due to the force used to push a new bearing in removing some rotor material so its not as tight as OEM. not sure if this is documented or just rumor though.

 

watching dvd now.. yeah valve grinding or clover compound will do

 

ive heard its because it takes a really long time to break the new ones in. upwards of 3k miles. Idk if this is true at all.

 

yeah Im gonna replace all the bearings in it. and probly the rear housing with a tII then send them to goopy for resurfacing. Anyone know where to get lapping done in the tristate area? I know its ported but would still like to go over them with some sort of template any recommondations?

 

how is the front rotor housing?

 

better then the rear should be fine to resurface

 

Wont resurfacing affect clearance in the apex seals? Also it may be best to to have both rotor housing on even playing ground so to speak. Idk if you were planning on going with a new t2 housing or a used one in good shape. whatever the case its best to have housings in equal shape. Depending on what parts are reused time bombs can be built rather than a strong longer lasting engine.

 

The wear on the housings look characteristic of RA seals. Seal tip breakage looks like a standard detonation ping at the weakest point. The porting on the irons looks pretty good. Since goopy is close to you see what they charge to resurface both housings.

 

Here's what my seals looked like after catastrophic detonation, notice the tips especially. Snapped on in half on one rotor and took out two tips on the other.

 

I was thinking of buying the RA rebuild kit with super seals would you advise against it?