also wondering how to use a 5 gallon bucket instead of purchasing a engine mount for the stand. Do u just drop the nose in and start unstacking? should i expect things exploding or pooping out when I open it?

 

also what tools will i need for checking clearances and seal specs?

 

I know this is the 2nd gen section but you do not want to be doing some halfass **** like building your engine in/on a bucket. Not if it's going to be a respectable turbo engine build. If you have a proper engine stand you can mount the entire longblock with all the manifolds etc on there, and then rotate it upside down to get the oil pan etc. Don't cheap out on this.

There are a ton of little pieces that can go everywhere. The more stuff you plan to reuse, the more important it is to track where everything was originally so you can put it back.

a set of feeler gauges, a dial indicator with stand (there is a video on that site about using it for endplay measurement), and a digital dial caliper. most of that you can get from Harbor Freight or other inexpensive tool place. They don't have to be super precise. You may need some micrometers but probably not because you are most likely reusing the housings anyway. You aren't setting bearing clearances on a 10,000rpm piston engine. Technically you don't even need the dial indicator. You could just use some feeler gauges to set endplay (see the video) and a dial caliper to measure dimensions seals. Total cost would be maybe $40 max--which means more money to spend on a proper engine stand setup.

Also you should get a set of picks for cleaning, and at the very least some kind of container that you can use a wash basin for your housings. It takes a while to clean everything, even if your motor is still relatively fresh.

 

Arghx youre right. Im gonna just take my time and do it correct.

Im planning on basically replacing everything with RA over haul kit gonna upgrade apex seals and springs too. Also planning on doing thermal pellet mod, and modifing the oil pressure regulators

I am gonna by the stand adaptor. Itll make my life easier.

It also looks like ill be purchasing a flywheel stopper cause this front balancer bolt wont come out. Ive tried 2 1/2" guns and 2 3/4' guns. This thing wont budge ive been at it since 11 o clock. Im getting upset any advice?

As for the tools I have every thing availible to me so that wont cost me anything. Just need to know what to grab

 

It's on there with thread lock. You could get a flywheel stopper, or get one of these.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....&group_ID=1619

Have a friend hold the flywheel still, hit it with the 3/4 gun. If that doesn't work, I used a torch to heat it up. I turned a snap-on impact socket into a pretty metal flower before I heated it up.

 

just ordered from mazdatrix.
Line Quantity Part Number Part Name Price Total
1) 1 49-220TB TOOL FLYWHEEL STOP $22.89
2) 1 MZTX-ENG-STAND TOOL ENGINE STAND $90.00
Total: $112.89

 

Atkins engine stand adapter is $65 if im remebering correctly.look at your options closely. Theres no need to be in a rush the car wont walk away. just take your time with this whole process and everything should go smoothly. Theres many people here to help you with anything.

 

Im in no rush but I do have a two months of down time Id like to take advantage of. I did look at my options its the same as the pineapple racing which is 55 but this on goes thru the stand not just bolted to the arms I feel it will be much more secure.

 

my future purchase list

Pineapple Racing
Pilot Bearing & Seal
Item Number: PLTBRG/S $12.50
* whole number $12.50
Rotor Housing Coolant Passage Plug
Item Number: EP20S $6.95
* whole number $6.95
Stainless Steel Crank Angle Sensor Cover - Ninja
Item Number: CASC-SN $14.95
* whole number $14.95
FC Aluminum Oil Pan
Item Number: FCAS $249.00
* whole number $249.00
Shims for front cover pressure regulator
Item Number: PRSSHIMS $2.95
* whole number $2.95
Mazda Seal Case
Item Number: SEALCS $69.00
* whole number $69.00
TOTAL $355.35

 

Rotary Aviation
Description Price Quantity Amount
Thermal Pellet - US
8.50 quantity|
Super Seal UPGRADE - US/Canada
60.00 quantity|
87-88 TURBO Install Gaskets - US/Canada
118.80 quantity|
2 mm RA Racing Spring Set 2 Rotor - US
80.50 quantity|
86-91 BASIC Overhaul Kit-US ONLY
541.00 quantity|
Item total:$808.80
add 98 for OMP adaptor

 

check fuel pump voltage/pressure and see if the pump was ever rewired.

 

Awsome adivice keep it coming!!
I do however run an external Aeromotive a1000 pump and it has been rewired.
I am planning on having all my Injectors cleaned and flow tested, I am also thinking of purchasing a new FPR and sumping the tank and moving the pump in there will just have to change my lines around a little.
James

 

So im unsure whether im gonna go with the full kit of basic kit I guess i have to wait till Get every thing out and start measuring. Im gonna buy a seal box from pineapple to keep every thing organized

 

50 psi on two faces, I wanna say you got lucky and just warped a seal.

 

Just placed my pineapple order

Pilot Bearing & Seal PLTBRG/S 1 $12.50 $12.50
Rotor Housing Coolant Passage Plug EP20S 1 $6.95 $6.95
Stainless Steel Crank Angle Sensor Cover - Ninja CASC-SN 1 $14.95 $14.95
FC Aluminum Oil Pan FCAS 1 $249.00 $249.00
Shims for front cover pressure regulator PRSSHIMS 1 $2.95 $2.95
Mazda Seal Case SEALCS 1 $69.00 $69.00

Subtotal: $355.35
Shipping: $10.95
Handling: $1.00
Tax: $0.00

Order Total: $367.30

 

Thats what Im hoping!! Car still started right up just ran a little rough, drove it up the ramps and ripped it out lol

 

These two videos might help you with the disassembly and cleaning process:

Engine disassembly:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1MXfs_Srs4

Engine cleaning:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5A5q61bzRI

 

thanks Aaron now I at least know what to expect. I wish my front bolt came off as easy as yours lol

 

stock seals don't warp, if lucky it just chipped the corner of the long seal and ejected it prior to damaging the rotor or housing. usually when they fracture the end result is near 0 compression on all faces and require a new housing and rotor.

 

This motor was built a few years ago by Smoking Joe Racing in Long Island I bought the motor second hand, not sure what seals are in it. Looking forward to finding out tho.

 

Any possibility you just put the trailing plug wires on the wrong plugs?

I did this once when I first got my TII and it ran fine but detonated horribly (sounded like walking on gravel) once I got into boost.

Lucky for me it was one time on stock boost/power levels and it didn't break anything.

 

no the coils are clearly marked it did sound like that tho. ill be switching to MSD LS2 coils this time around

 

Haha! Yup. Pineapple. Hes gonna be rebuilding my engine when im ready.

 

gtfo

 

any pics of the motor apart