hey i have a motor out of a 83fb and i cant get the ront rotor off the e-shaft. it looks as though there is a kwy i have to pull but i can't see how i would get it. I have a bad pic of it attached. also would this rotor housing be useable?? it only has these to minor flaking areas. thanks -noel

 

noel- e-shaft pic w-a-a-a-y to soft to tell anything BUT my rotors just slid right off no prob when I pulled my 12a apart so something is hinky
As to the rotor faces, if that is ALL there is for flaking then I - who am NO expert - would use them again, esp considering the cost of new ones...
Stu Aull
80SG
Alaska

 

The only things that holds the rotors on the e-shaft are the engine sideplates - - the rotor spins freely on the e-shaft.

If it won't just lift off freely, either the bearing is seized, or something foreign is stuck in there. Either way, it's probably bad news. Does the rotor turn on the e-shaft at all?

I can't see your picture too clearly, but it looks like you're looking at the retention tang that is supposed to keep the bearing sleeve from spinning inside the rotor.

 

thanks im thinking im gonna re-use that housing too. heres a better pic of the rotor. I can get it to move ack and forth about 1/2 and inch maybe and inch but that's it. I highlighted the area that I'm talkin about with the tab that sticks up. thanks -noel

 

Yep, that's the bearing retention tab. It and the bearing (the silvery sleeve the e-shaft goes thru) stay with the rotor. If you look at your already-removed rear rotor, you'll see the same tab. It prevents rotation of the bearing after it's been mated to the rotor by pressure.

If you look closely about 5-7 gear-teeth "counterclockwise" of the tab in the pic, you can apparently see some metal debris caught between the e-shaft and the bearing. Probably the source of your troubles.

You may need to get the e-shaft pressed out of the bearing, and you're almost certainly going to need to replace the bearing and maybe the shaft. Those two surfaces (e-shaft journal and rotor bearing) are critical to engine longevity. Even slight damage will cause loss of oil pressure, and very shortly, engine failure. The mating between bearing and shaft transmits all the engine's power.

If you are careful, the rotor can probably be saved, since a new bearing can be pressed in. The bearing surface is softer than the e-shaft, so you might just maybe luck out and the debris will only have scarred the bearing... but if the rotor is not moving easily on it (like pinky-finger pressure) they're probably both toast.

 

yeah the kid who sold it too me had it at the track so he probably ran the thing to hard. that sucks. thanks for taking the time to write--appricate it -noel

 

Housing looks toasted too. If you can feel those chatter marks, it's gone. The way that one flake is bordered by 2 chaltter lines means it's probably going to continue.

 

You still got a start on a motor; side housings and rotors may well be good, and they aren't cheap either. Bearings aren't bad to replace.

Halfway there, maybe.