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Pic Request Fighters Garage Trailing Arms

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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 01:29 PM
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Smile Pic Request Fighters Garage Trailing Arms

I can't find a clear or good picture of the Fighter's Garage Trailing Arms uninstalled. Can someone provide a picture? It looks like they have a test product for their picture on their website and it looks unfinished. Can someone help me out? I see the toe links and they look great. The trailing arms don't look that great from the pics i've found. Thank you!

Justin
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 01:24 AM
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i heard their stuff aint so good..
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by money
i heard their stuff aint so good..
That is completely useless please say from who and why.

On paper their superiority should come in their use of dust seals vs non-dust seal versions.
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by dradon03
That is completely useless please say from who and why.

On paper their superiority should come in their use of dust seals vs non-dust seal versions.
to you it is useless. but i will try to find the info where i read it.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 09:08 PM
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^^ Please do b/c Dale Clark recommends their products, and that's pretty much reason enough for me to think they make quality parts.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 09:38 PM
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The trailing arms aren't notched so they are a pain in the *** to get tight and stay that way. They are ok. Nowhere near the level of the Cusco and JIC arms I have owned on other cars. Even though they cost the same.
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 12:27 PM
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Notched?
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 02:31 PM
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See how the end of the arm is flattened so that you can put a wrench on it to keep the arm from turning while you tighten the jam nut? The trailing arm doesn't have that, making it a pain in the *** to tighten it and have it stay tight. Which means it can come loose and mess up the alignment.


Like I said, they are not too bad of quality, I was just very disappointed after reading positive reviews about them.
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 08:56 PM
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How would the trailing arm even rotate? As long as you bolt it up to the chassis first, then it would be locked in place by the spherical end.
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 09:18 PM
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Because the bolt on the end is a regular thread, so when you tighten it, it is turning the spherical end counterclockwise, loosening it. And since there is no flat part to put a wrench on enabling you to get the jam nut on the spherical end really tight, you have to kind go back and forth. Mine came loose once, and I put loctite on the threads and tightened the crap out of both ends at the same time. However, the whole issue could be solved if it had a wrench spot. (Even the Megans have this slot)
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 09:55 PM
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1) before you install it put double-nuts on the shaft end.

2) put a wrench on the double-jam nut like you would the faceted part of the strut and, with another wrench, tighten the jam nut at the bearing end.

3) remove double-nuts from the other end, install the strut.

4) you should now be able to tighten the shaft end without the strut "loosening"



edit: yes I agree it would be easier if the wrench faces were already machined onto the strut, but all is not lost

edit edit: I have the RP struts and they have wrench faces.
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 02:32 PM
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So does anyone have pictures of the trailing arms?
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 10:50 PM
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I have them on my car - agree with the comments above - it needs a flat surface as I've had mine come loose twice now. Second, when they weld in the insert for the bolt at the back - they rub off the anodizing from the metal to make for a clean weld- but don't do anything to cover the bare metal back up. The Heim joints are smaller than the older M2 setups,(and in the picture of the toe link above and below) - but they do have dust covers.
Bottom line, not a bad product, but I wouldn't buy them again,(mainly the lack of a flat surface to tighten against and the unfinished end where the main lower arm bolts to). I chose them because they were the only ones which had a dust cover available that I could find at the time. If I were to buy again, I would find some used M2 links,(I already have the older M2 toe links), or I would look at the others on the market.
-Bob


You can see them in the picture above,(and here):
Notice the lower arm and the bare metal part at the head of the arm?
Bottom line - they are NOT made like the upper toe link - if they were, I would be much happier and I think they should change the design. I will say their customer service was great though - a pleasure to deal with.

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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by habu2


1) before you install it put double-nuts on the shaft end.

2) put a wrench on the double-jam nut like you would the faceted part of the strut and, with another wrench, tighten the jam nut at the bearing end.

3) remove double-nuts from the other end, install the strut.

4) you should now be able to tighten the shaft end without the strut "loosening"



edit: yes I agree it would be easier if the wrench faces were already machined onto the strut, but all is not lost

edit edit: I have the RP struts and they have wrench faces.

good idea. I cant remember what I did when I installed mine and havnt even checked if they've come loose.

I do really like their products btw.
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 09:21 PM
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No personal experiences,

But 2 of my friends ordered their battery boxes, and were really disappointed. Batteries supplied didn't work and the craftsmanship was pretty shoddy from the pictures i saw and what it was supposed to be.

So, i can't really feel mentally confident about dropping cash on their stuff at least with the avaliablity of stuff here in southern california.
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