i seen these GODSPEED sway set on ebay for like 220 shipped for the front and rear.. now im wondering what the deal is.. are they good and worth the 220? can anyone comment?

 

I'm kinda wondering the same thing.

 

buh buh buh bump! someones got to have a set.. whats good peoples?

 

Good for what? Street? Auto-x? Track?

What spring rates do you have on now?

 

You can get a set of Tanabe bars for about that price, they are a known quantity (and quality), recommended by Howard in his suspension thread.

 

+1 for that idea.

 

Tanabe is a more expensive. With shipping, I got their front and rear for just a few bucks under $400 ($395 to be exact). But I do agree with going with something better known.

 

OK you made me go back and look. I dug out my receipt, my Tanabe F/R set was $352.xx including shipping from evasivemotorsports.com, so I was wrong on comparing the prices. This was for an FD btw.

What are the diameters on the godspeed bars? and do they include mounting hardware?

To be thorough you should also replace your front bar mounts with Widefoots or similar. I did and it increased the total cost of the upgrade substantially. A necessary evil I'm afraid...

 

The eBay add has:

DESCRIPTION : GODSPEED 93-97 MAZDA RX-7 FRONT AND REAR SWAY BAR WITH RUBBER( LIFETIME WARRANTY)

FRONT- 31.40mm

REAR - 21.00mm

 

Basically they are Tanabe copies from the information gathered. But after the whole Racing Beat debacle why not just go for something that is known to work?

 

they have to be better then the OEM anti sway bars..

 

Define better?
Nothing wrong with OEM bars. Plenty of people running them.

Don't get into the mindset that just b/c a part is aftermarket, it is better. That isn't always the case. Many times its is not.

 

when i said better i ment stiffer.. but your right, aftermarket isnt always better but in this case i think it is.. im sure they will have less roll then oem

 

Id rather get the cheap ST bars than an unknown ebay brand.

 

You already seem to have made up your mind. Why don't you just get them? It's your car in the end to make or break.

 

yeah why not, its cheap.. if there crap ill sell them.. but i still wanted to know if anyone used them

 

Stiffer isn't always better (in spite of what your girlfriend said). And less roll is only part of the equation, you also want to dial in your weight transfer with the correct bar. Front/rear balance in roll stiffness is also important.

If you're slapping on bigger bars just because they're bigger then be sure you get a color you like as well. Bling Bling...

 

actually stiffer would deffinetly make the car have less roll.. and the ballance seems to be ok sinse its a 28mm front and 18mm rear if i remember correctly.. i mean ****, i could put them on and they might not be balanced right but thicker/stiffer bars will deff make less roll.. and of course i will use a mircrometer on the old oem bars to see if the new bars are balanced.. im sure i dont need to explain how to do that..

 

Nowhere in the previous poster's comments did he make any claim that a stiffer bar would cause less body roll.

Also a bar could have a 28mm OD but a 0.1 wall and be less rigid than a smaller bar with a thicker wall. Also the quality of the materials can come into concern. Unless you have very specific information about the actual products you will not be able to calculate the percentage gain over the OEM stock bars and you will be crapshooting for results.

Who cares about having less roll of the car is not behaving as you would like it. Contrary to what you may believe less body roll isn't the sole component of better cornering. You should definitively read Howard Coleman's thread on FD handling twice for good measure so you may more properly understand the function of swaybars in the greater picture of the working unit that is suspension.

 

dradon03 is correct. The diameter of a bar does not in itself define the torsional spring rate (stiffness). You have to account for the distribution of material across the cross section of the bar. Hollow/tubular bars are a perfect example of this.

And less roll isn't the only objective. Some roll can be a good thing, especially if you consider the FD's progressive negative camber gain as the suspension compresses. Balanced weight transfer is the objective, and for that you have to account for both front and rear roll stiffness as well as front and rear spring rates.

There are entire books on this subject. I suggest you read one. If not, as I said earlier, be sure you get a color you like...

 

actually you do need to explain that, it makes absolutely no sense at all.

 

i have the inner and outter measurements of the new bars. i will cut a bad oem set and measure them.. i also will try a flex test.. the 200 dollars dont mean **** to me.. i will come up with a good comparison..

 

where your brains at? to many bong hits?

 

For the OEM bars these already exist so please don't waste a perfectly good set. Go back to old posts there is alot of good info to be had.

http://www.fd3s.net/anti-sway_bars.html

Sorry to say this if as you say the financial aspect of your purchase was completely insignificant #1 You would have never created this thread #2 You would buy name brand. Your statement is nonsensical if 200 dollars is not important than what is the 100$ to get a tried and tested product?

 

trust me buddie, the 200 bucks aint a thing.. i started it to see what people said.. the money i have invested in my FD is un countable. i like to experiment with things especially when there as simple as a tube.. and just because i have money doesnt mean i dont like to save it. certain things i go with the best, for instance i just bought 4k$ wheels and tires from CCW racing.. everything on my FD is top notch.. if its crap it just will not see the car simple as that