hey,

I have been learning about this car so much i love it.What should be done to the motor beside the mods like down pipe,intercooler,pfc Etc.,Im talking about the 3rd gen i should have mine soon. The guys that have one aree so lucky.

 

more research

 

A whole hell of a lot more research and just experience with owning the car.

Nothing really needs to be done to the internals itself, except for the elimination of the three piece apex seals if you want to be resistant to total annihilation by detonation (cool phrase, huh?) but extensive mods need to be done in order to handle the power, unless you are going single to eliminate the stock turbo system.

My mods are pretty much what you will need to do it right. I also should get an ignition amp, plugs and wires. Which I will before installing my kit.

Garrett

 

Lakeland, eh?

I just got my single turbo FD back from Lakeland. I had a new engine built by Simon and had Rob and Allen of Extreme Turbo Shop do the tuning - they are all out in the Lakeland area. When you do get a FD and have the resources to have an engine built up, I'd be happy to put you in touch with Simon - he really knows his stuff.
He currently has a 650rwhp 2 rotor in a Porsche running on gasoline/alcohol. He estimated the engine he built for me to be running "over 400" to the wheels on pump gas - but we won't know for sure until the car is put on a dyno.

RE your question: What you do to the internals of the engine all depends on the power you realistically hope to make.

If you're looking for 300-400rwhp you should be fine with stock clearances and a street port.

As you up that figure to the 400-500rwhp range, it is a good idea to upgrade to race bearings, give the motor a little more clearance, dowel pin the motor (4 pins) and perhaps lock the rotors.

500-700 and you're looking at a seriously customized engine. All of the above, 6 instead of 4 dowels, lock the rotors in 4 places instead of 2, special care to clearances, etc.

It's expensive to do this kind of thing correctly, especially if you don't do it right the first time.
~John

 

Well, I'd seriously think about driving the car first... But that's just me.

 

THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP GUYS.JBurer Is the shop you went to off combee road here in lakeland?Because theres this rotary shop off that road and the guy has a red 3rd gen with lots of motor work done.Thanks

 

None of this is needed. Too much mis-information is given sometimes. Demetrios makes 770rwhp on stock 3piece apex seals, no pinning, no locking of the rotors, and no special sauce. Just a big street port, a lot of boost and good tuning.

 

Ernie T , I agree with You. I have been running pump Gas and 18 PSI all Summer with a T-72 and a steet port. I have not sat on the dyno this year but I am making way more power then the 380 RWHP last year. I have nothing special done to My motor besides 3mm seals. I took the car to 22 PSI also a few times with zero bad effects. Like Ernie says good tuning will keep Your motor going for a long time. In My case I am running safely rich.

Good luck with Your car

 

He's got to have some sort of special sauce in there!!
He's one of a very few individuals making that kind of power.
Aside from Simon, Carlos Gonzalez is the only person I speak with regularly who is in that league. He also performs basically the same checklist of items for his race motors I listed.

I know you're a well-informed guy, Ernie, and certainly know more than I do. I think in this instance, though, it's more a case of what one can get away with.

Simon explained to me that the motors tend to twist at the power levels Demetrios is making. (what twisting is, I am not certain, but he solved the problem by adding the dowel pins).

Either way, congratulations on the impressive power levels. Do you happen to have the stock knock sensor or IAC on the car?
I'm not sure if it's just a bad sensor, but my stock knock sensor doesn't seem to work with the TEC.
~John

 

IAC is on the car. Stock knock sensor isn't. Not like it does any good anyhow.....lol...

 

I have never experieced my motor twisting unless the tune was off. It has been my experience that if the tune is off and you are making big power nothing in this world can keep a motor together at these power levels. For example say you intall 3mm seals and are making big power. If something goes wrong and the motor misfires/detonates the apex seal may stay in tact but the rotor will colapse and pinch the side seal so you are still out a rotor wich you paid to machine to 3mm and most likely a rotor housing from when your rotor slammed against it. Point being if there is a problem nothing can save you once you are making a certain power level so you avoid this by tuning. I'm sure there is other philosphy's out there this is just what I have learned over the years.

D

 

I would contact a local Priest and have him bless it.

 

From what I have been "told" is there is no point in having a motor dowel pinned, unless you have a 2nd gen block under lots of stress. I think theres a section on the rear housing thats very thin and when it detenates the block will twist; causing the thin part the break(housing).
Im no engine builder or expert. Im not even sure if i explain it right, but I think I have the right idea(dont waste my money) .Somebody clear this up if they can.
Chances are if you run a single, you going to be replacing motors ever 20k miles. Yet have I had one to last me 10k, but thats my luck.
BTW, what does locking the rotors do??