The big ideas are the same between Haltech and PFC but a lot of the implementation is different, such as idle control and boost control

 

LOL. That's pretty funny: Went FROM the PFC *TO* Haltech and then blows it up AFTER getting it tuned.

So much for your local tuners.

I''ve access to the group and notes, though I haven't looked at it, for a while. Doing a pretty stout build on our TTS/TT1 car so I'm not too far off to needing the notes...

Actually, I think the final is going to be my getting the track car done, then the turbo vert, pack BOTH of them on a truck and scoot them off to someplace to have them BOTH tuned.

Any reputable PFC tuning spots in/ around Florida (And if anyone suggests Pettit, I'll scream)?

 

Oh yeah haha real funny...
The motor blowing had nothing to do with the tune...and I don't see how switching to a superior comp lead to blowing my motor..

 

I was actually laughing at the irony.

I've had mebbe a half-dozen different tuning boxes, over the years. Rarely it's the box, generally it's EBKAC (Error Between Keyboard and Chair - Tuning Error)...

That or all of that wompy tuning that went on killed it to where the Haltech couldn't cover the damage done, with safe-tuning.

Re-read the post and look at the linear flow of time, you'll see what I mean.

 

I understand the more options and features of the haltech can lead to being easier to make mistakes, but my motor blowing was not due to tuning error...
unless you have something helpful to contribute to this thread.. Im gonna close it....

 

That's what I kind of was going after. Wasn't saying it was SOLELY the work of ill-tining; not by any stretch.

Out of the 5 RX7s I've owned, usually tuning extends the longevity of an engine if it has any mechanical problems.

Go ahead and close it, I was just trying to figure out whatever happened to all of this. Both 'Arghx' and 'Cewrx7r1' really know their ****, when it comes to the tuning and I was kind of hoping that it all worked out for the best.

 

It's a tough pill to swallow, but the key to tuning an engine that lasts is to do what the OEM's do and leave power on the table... overbuild, leave a safety margin, and don't try to keep up with numbers you saw on the internet. Nobody wants to hear that, but there's a reason why stock engine tunes on stock engines are usually idiot proof (except for a few notable exceptions such as the Cadillac 2.8 turbo SRX and 2008+ Subaru STi). This is especially critical when you are running pump gas without a good knock control system.