JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

yes i am im gonna get it all figure out then drive the bitch around open DP lol

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Ok guys today, I finally got a chance to mess around with the car, now that it stays runnning the idle and start up are almost perfect hot and cold. so I deciced to let the car warm up to see if my efan is wired up correctly. When the car was cold idle was around 700 and had pretty good throttle respones no hesitation as the car warmed up the ilde raised a little to 800-900 figured its normal, but when I bleeped the throttle it would start to lightly hesitate. I couldnt allow the car to fully get to oprerating temp for the fan to come on due to a minor coolant leak, so I just need to take car of that. I didnt take any logs I will maybe later or tomorrow, but could this be by any chance caused by the water temp settings I fucked with? Should I change them back to the way they were? Thanks
James

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

It could be but you won't know if the other ones are correct either until you get a wideband. Otherwise you're just guessing. You won't be able to get the car running like it should without a wideband. This really needs to be added before you go further.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

it could be anything. Injector setup, fuel map, accel settings, spark problems, it could be anything. Once again if you don't have a wideband it's going to be tough to go further with tuning this thing. water temp correction and fuel map settings all work together. It's best to get the car tuned when warmed up, then play with the warmup settings later, or you will be chasing your proverbial tail.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

The last map posted:
Run a RECALC.
Timing Split (IGT) is still a mess.
Settings 1 - run idle at 800/850/1000.
Settings 4 - The IGN vs Water Temp Cool still shows retard.
When you start logging follow my instructions for inj transistion and try your stock values (settings 5) against Set Pri/Sec Transistion (%) to 30,
Set Sec Transistion (ms) to 0.100.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

ok i have an innovate lm1 on order. will probly get it in a few days then have to learn how to use it. Installation shouldnt be to difficult with that nice write up.
ok so im gonna changes those settings acoordingly is there any way to fix the timing split while I wait on the wide band?
thanx james

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Set the split to 3 in most areas for best combustion. Except a higher split in boost. There are alot of opinions on the best split. Some people run 15 on their whole map. But most people generally agree that negative split is bad. And having split jump up and down all over is bad. Your timing maps need to be smooth flowing.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

ok guys I just received the lm-1 kit yesterday and went over everything and the integration to the pfc and datalogger.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...c_tutorial.php
seems simple enough, just need a serial to usb adaptor
I would set it up today but its pouring out so ill wait till tomorrow. i still havent gotten a chance to a chance to change the settings as per Chuck let alone even look at the car since my last posts, but will tomorrow when I have it all set up. then I just need to spend some time to get familiar w/ everything. you guys got any advice or pointers for me? thanx
James

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

chuck how does this lookI changed it to what you said
still need to put it in the car

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

ok guys soo I spent the majority of the day hooking the wideband up and calibrating every thing to the datalogger got a chance to **** around w/ it and get som loggs like chuck had said its running lean. here the logs I got one is for my ##2 map and one is for the #3 map didnt really notice any change between the 2.
any advice?

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

if you're running lean you can add fuel. do you have chucks notes? if so you can run a couple logs and use the AFR tuner thats included to help get the fuel right. I didnt get a chance to look at your logs because im on a laptop that doesnt have FC universal installed. If you're running lean everywhere in the map you can just add a certain % of fuel all over on the INJ map.

If it's just in certain spots then add fuel where needed. But don't start boosting until you get a handle on tuning cruise/idle areas, and make sure you're on the rich side first before tuning boost.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

yes i have chucks note i just went though them and found the afr tuner and corrected it as per the instructions how does this look? Im not by the car right now to test it out. now that i entered the pasted the correction injector map should i still recalc after I write it to the pfc right? thanx
james

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

You don't have to recalc until you see how the map works for you. You should also put it in and look at it in a graph to make sure the lines don't cross. But you have to do recalc in order for that to work

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

ok went at it again today enterd the afr corrected fuel map and car ran a little bit better but still hesitates with the upadated map i was abled to get more grids on the map watch so i reran the afr turner for the plots and enter the map and still didnt help much. wht do you guy think?
heres the first log

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

here my second

2FAST7S

fix your split! This is one of those synthetic vs dino oil debates...split vs no split, blah blah blah. I am just getting my feet wet tuning, while I get cumfy with it I'm going as safe and conservative as possible. I run 15 deg. split throughout!
Simply click on the IGT map and check the split box highlight the whole thing and set it to 15...Figure out AFRs and leading timing, then once youre happy with those start playing around with the split at idle to get a feel for how the engine reacts to it! BTW, you never want to see negative split...a quick look at that log and I picked out a few spots where youre doing just that. under vaccum youre fine but i imagine under boost it would chew up an apex seal QUICK...

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

No tuner suggests 15 split. The only question is what range is most benifitial with lease amount of drawback under high boost. 8 to 12 degrees split is common.

Anyway his 4 split under high boost is DANGEROUS. I already told him to fix it and he has good examples to go from.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

yes some people run the same split everywhere, though i think that method was used earlier on before more testing had been done. In cruise areas (vacuum) the new trend is a lower split. around 3. So from p1- p10 3 is safe. After that 15 is a bit conservative, 13 until dyno testing would probably work just fine. i think chuck runs around 10 with his single turbo in boost areas. I didnt see any negative split on his map though i did see 0 split in some vacuum areas that should be changed. Looks like in mainly off throttle areas.

OP: do you have lean spots when the car hesitates? is it when you rev the car? drive the car or what? Also your timing looks high in half your idle area, it also looks like it would be jumping from 10 - 23 between n2 and n3 which is where the car would prob idle at. that would cause the idle to jump around, wont be smooth.

2FAST7S

I dont know, the half bridge doesnt seem to mind it too much...I'll run the same way on my way to work and change it for the way back see what happens...Im not sure on this but I think 0 split gives me better idle, yet another thing to try out.

2FAST7S

while starting out, I think leaving it alone at one spot is better while you work out other things...
I've already forgotten to adjust a few rows I changed on the leading but I've cought myself! At least safer since i'm sure we're not gonna go out and start tuning max boost out of the box!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Ok chuck for split transition should I put all values at ten or would it be best to do like the example in you notes mostly 3 and a nice transition to higher splits in higher rpm and boost? Or should I just mimic the split you have showed as a ref.? I also gonna try smoothing out my ignition map in the morning. As for lean spots yes I get them when it hesitates. This is happening when I free rev the motor. I havent tried to put any type of load on it yet. So I'm gonna go over the mentioned things tomorrow I will post any updates or progress here. Any and all advice is great thanks guys.
James

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

try this method, right click on FC EDIT make sure map tracer is selected. Go to SETUP > MAPS > SOURCE and i like to use advanced. Then go to WINDOW > MONITOR > DATALOGIT and check advanced on to log that, also make sure AUX is checked on and anything else you want to log.

Now with the car idling start logging (F1) you should see a box interpolating between all the cells the car is currently using. It will turn these cells yellow. Hopefully by this point you have your idle basically sitting in one spot and not bouncing around aimlessly. If it's bouncing around work on this and get it smooth. Then to fix lean spots lightly rev the car and take note of the cells the car uses. Generally when you first rev the car it will drop down a P level. Example: from N3 P4 to N4 P5 then go back up to the P4 levels. If the car hesitates most likely the value that needs increased is N4 P5. (in this example) Just follow the map tracer as you rev and it should be obvious where to add fuel. When i looked at your fuel maps they looked very flat on the graph, and at least in my case they are more of a flowing motion. With slight peaks and valleys.

Your hesitation could also be from your IGL map having a normal ignition advance to a very high idle advance right in the middle of your idle cells.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

ok guy i just re did my timing split i combined the the example from chucks note and your guys advice to create this. what you guys think

also im now tring to smooth out my ignL map but like dudeman says I have a big jump N02-N03 how do i smooth out such a large transition? use the median or average # to try to get it closer?

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

if you look under chucks notes, his timing jumps as well. But its from N4 And N5, which is above where the idle is. His goes from 11 to 28 The Important thing is to have your idle cells all very similar. I cannot say where you have your particular idle set at. but if its set at around 1000 that is right between N2/N3 (800/1200). That means with your current map its probably leaping from 10 degrees to 23 degrees. This will cause the idle to be rough and jumpy.(i haven't looked at your new new map) Just stretch your idle timing to N4. Thats 1600 RPMs and should be above your idle speed.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

ok i now also did a little more work on the split. and tried to smooth ignL map out while in vac and at idle the transition isnt as bad as before. i know the rest of the map probly needs a lot more work but can you guys just let me know if im on the right path. thanks to you guys im learning more and more every day
here the new map w/ more changes.