Turboing a N/A?
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Turboing a N/A?
i've searched and read aarons thread, but are u able to use t2 manifolds? can you make em fit somehow>? i see that you have to make a spacer for the turbo but, if you were able to use the t2 IM would u not to need the spacer? i want to go N/A turbo but i want to figure out how to not need to hack away at the body
#4
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Originally Posted by cmjaure
no you dont need a spacer if you use t2 manis there are alot of threads with pics just search.
Of course (as posted countless times) the turbo intake manifolds do not come with openings for the Aux ports. You would have to radically modfiy a turbo lower intake manifold to make to work with the aux port openings.
Thread re-opened for pictures
Last edited by Icemark; 04-24-05 at 10:38 AM.
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N/A - Turbo
This is for the Vietdragon guy who asked about n/a to turbo........the lower intake manifold of a turbo intake would need to be enlarged and a cavity filled in on both front and rear housing mating points. Attached I hope, are the jpgs to give you an idea. Sorry, no BEFORE GUTTING jpg http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showt...&threadid=31037
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showt...&threadid=31036
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showt...&threadid=31036
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#12
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Originally Posted by staticguitar313
jb weld, solder is a less than smart idea
#13
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yeah and think of it this way if oyu dont have a soldering iron, you can solder with a lighter, thats saying something, i'm all for using Tii manifolds, altough the seems to be NO perfect solution for N/a - turbo conversions right now, that solder thing hurst to look at, i get fed up wiring guitars, that would **** me off, not that i'm dumb enough to use solder on manifolds to begin with
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Originally Posted by staticguitar313
jb weld, solder is a less than smart idea
STATICGUITAR313, you know not what your talking about. You are dumb (tit for tat dummy).
Plus it looks better than the jpg since I dressed it up.
No, the urls didn't show up. Oh well. Thanks GERGRX7
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Originally Posted by vietxdragon
i have a butane torch sitting around, is there a specific type of metal to get?, but it seems way better to get JB weld.
Buy some tin foil to wedge in the part of the hole that is not to get filled. Over fill the hole. When it cools remove the tin foil ....get out a dremel tool with a drum on it and shape the hole. For the part that you over filled above the mating surface of the manifold, grind most of it off but finish up using a flat file/sanding block making sure you don't get into the manifold material.
I poured at least twice and removed the mess. The good part is that you can remelt your mistake and pour again. Whatever you do, make sure you pour the whole amout in one pour. If things go amiss, try, try,try again.
Product number 22017 at this site http://www.oatey.com/apps/catalog/sh...&prodgrpid=365
Last edited by HAILERS; 04-24-05 at 03:52 PM.
#21
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Originally Posted by SonicRaT
No perfect turbo solution? WTF do you think I've been spending 12 hours a day doing!?
Hailers, now I know why you're so abnormal...I used to play with large quantities of solder like that too (and we all know how abnormal I am ). The best stuff to use is the big bars that are used for joining galvanized metal seams, such as in AC ducting (the old school style).
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http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...RBO+CONVERSION
i was reading this, and the guy swapped the water pump front cover, is that a must? and he drilled and tapped a hole for the IM, is that needed as well?
i was reading this, and the guy swapped the water pump front cover, is that a must? and he drilled and tapped a hole for the IM, is that needed as well?
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Yes, the drilling is required (one of my reasons why I don't like that method). And swapping the waterpump & front cover depends on how you want to run the oil lines and coolant lines.
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is there a different way u are able to run the oil and coolant lines? i read impreza's thread too, but i didnt quite get most of it as the pictures werent focused